Help with slipping clutch

[tuck1371]

Alright, so finally got my shee back together and got the chance to do a little riding Sunday. Motor sounded healthy and was snappier than I'd ever heard it (my work apparently paid off.) Got out to a nice open spot and went to give her hell... 1st-4th was instant redline, even 5th didn't quite pull like I thought it should (that's about all the more gear I could get in the stretch). I thought maybe I was spinning the tires. Turned around and let 'er rip again and glanced at the tires... no spin. About all I can figure is the clutch is slipping something fierce. Haven't torn it down yet, figured I'd turn to the treasure-trove of knowledge and experience within this site and it's members and see what y'all had to say first. I did adjust the screw on the clutch lever all the way in and had more clutch than I had before but it still went to instant redline anytime it came into power. The guy I bought it off of had said the clutch was fairly fresh and only had a few rides on it before he parked it. He said hiis buddy was the one who did the work, so I question... Fluid in the case was at an acceptable level on the stick, looked to be a heavier fluid (maybe gear lube?). I'll be the first to say I don't know enough on these Banshees to be comfortable just digging in and going for it. Is it possible he screwed something up when the clutch was replaced and something needs to be re-adjusted or fixed? On my old YZ125, when the clutch gave me shit I just adjusted the screw on the lever and my issues went away... I don't know what else to do besides open it up and have a look-see. Any input is appreciated. Any questions or missing info, ask away and I'll get it to ya..

[421alkybanshee]

Alright, so finally got my shee back together and got the chance to do a little riding Sunday. Motor sounded healthy and was snappier than I'd ever heard it (my work apparently paid off.) Got out to a nice open spot and went to give her hell... 1st-4th was instant redline, even 5th didn't quite pull like I thought it should (that's about all the more gear I could get in the stretch). I thought maybe I was spinning the tires. Turned around and let 'er rip again and glanced at the tires... no spin. About all I can figure is the clutch is slipping something fierce. Haven't torn it down yet, figured I'd turn to the treasure-trove of knowledge and experience within this site and it's members and see what y'all had to say first. I did adjust the screw on the clutch lever all the way in and had more clutch than I had before but it still went to instant redline anytime it came into power. The guy I bought it off of had said the clutch was fairly fresh and only had a few rides on it before he parked it. He said hiis buddy was the one who did the work, so I question... Fluid in the case was at an acceptable level on the stick, looked to be a heavier fluid (maybe gear lube?). I'll be the first to say I don't know enough on these Banshees to be comfortable just digging in and going for it. Is it possible he screwed something up when the clutch was replaced and something needs to be re-adjusted or fixed? On my old YZ125, when the clutch gave me shit I just adjusted the screw on the lever and my issues went away... I don't know what else to do besides open it up and have a look-see. Any input is appreciated. Any questions or missing info, ask away and I'll get it to ya..

 

If it was me, I would start over and buy a brand new set of clutches so you know they are new, get a pancake brg and adjuster fill with klotz flexdrive gear oil and go.

[locogato11283]

It's very possible that the guy didn't know shit.

 

The Banshee motor is a very simple one. First thing you should do is buy a Clymer manual. It will show you step by step how to do pretty much everything you need to do to your bike. For everything else, there's BansheeHQ.

 

You need to pull the clutch cover and inspect the clutch components. Here is a pretty simple order of things to do.

 

1. Drain the tranny oil and coolant.

2. Remove the brake lever, foot peg and kick starter.

3. Remove the clutch cover bolts.

4. Remove clutch cover.

 

Now you're in.. The clutch components will need to be inspected for wear. The pressure plate, inner hub and basket should all be checked. Depending on how old the motor is, it may be time for all new parts.

[ticktock]

Well I don't have a Clymers for download but the blue link at the bottom of my Sig will get you to a downloadable service manual. The clutch is easy. If you did a rebuild you can easily handle the clutch.

 

 

Adam

[tuck1371]

I pretty much counted on opening it up and doing an inspection... gotta know, right? That's how I found out the extent of the overbore, the portwork, and the fact that there were previously 19cc domes in the motor. I did watch a video or 3 on youtube about clutch reassembly and whatnot... seems fairly straightforward. I don't know how soon I can get to it, but I'll be sure to snap plenty of pics when I do and post em up. ticktock, thanks for the reminder. That was one of the first things I did when I signed up was download that manual. I'll go give it a gander. Thanks everybody for the quick replies btw.