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02 Banshee Fixer-upper


Jeno88

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So my buddy went and bought a 02 Banshee and the right side compression was off. I noticed it when we were buying it but figured it was probably his piston rings or he wasnt getting good spark on that side. Well i tore his Carbs apart and cleaned them out and we put new gas in the tank and made sure everything was cleaned out because if was bogging pretty bad. Well That didnt fix it so i took his head apart and his right piston was broke and the chunk that broke off is believed to be somewhere down in the cases. I kno i kno he got screwed hardcore but this is his first bike and he needs to learn how to work on and fix his own bike. So as of now we need a new crank, pistons, gaskets, and im hoping that the gears are all good because that lil chunk is still down in there. While were in the engine. What parts do yall recommend for us to upgrade to improve the bikes performance. He is still learning to ride so we r trying to get this thing rolling as fast as we can. But i figured why not ask the masters and see what we can do cheap and easy while we are in there and start building his engine back up. We plan on throwing a stroker crank in it and run stock piston size unless it has to be bored over. i say it needs a good hone and it will be fine. Should it be bored to run a stroker? also at what +-size rod do u have to shave the cylinder so it wont hit and when does the case need to be trenched? Also whats a cool head and are they a pretty good investment? any advice on building this bike back up and getting it running better would be greatly appreciated.

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Haha yea i figured it would but ya know im just trying to help a brother out. I know quite a bit about 4 stroke engines and 2 strokes are even easier. but i figured why not stroke it since we have to replace the crank anyways. its already has fmf gold series pipes and powercore 2 silencers but as far as that i believe its all stock.

 

this post will prolly get your ass torn up but my advice do nothing as far as stroking it. true weld crank new seals ,new bore pistons and run it stock . piped if anything mild porting leave it at that

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this post will prolly get your ass torn up but my advice do nothing as far as stroking it. true weld crank new seals ,new bore pistons and run it stock . piped if anything mild porting leave it at that

 

x3.43233565100 double aught 1000000 :bolt:

 

 

 

EDIT: the chunk of piston is not anywhere near the gears fyi

Edited by 04zSpittinKlotz
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I agree with Sandman, Get the cylinders bored, honed, chamfered, trail port job, and some weisco piston and rings and it really will be good to go.

 

For your friend who is still learning how to ride, you all picked one of the most aggressive, quickest, atv's already. I mean after you do what I said above get a decent set of pipes on there and re - jet accordingly and the Bike will scream.

 

You kinda worry me with "tore his carbs apart", and "throwing a stroker crank in it", these items take patience, knowledge, and no how (experience) to work on.

 

Get a Clymers manual on the Banshee and start reading up. It's a great paperback Service, Repair, maintenance, manual that cost's about $28.00 You will gain so much knowledge by reading it.

 

That's my two cents... I'm just trying to save you a shit load of money because throwin a stroker crank in is $$$ right in itself. :confused:

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oh i completely agree and i told him when he was buying it that a banshee isnt a learners bike. But as for maintenance and knowledge i have to agree. i had a banshee as a kid and my dad sold it because i was learning to ride wheelies. i have a raptor 660 that ive dropped over 5k into the engine alone so i know ALL about it getting pricey. So we shouldnt go the stroker route...ok:( lol

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and thank you for pointing that out. i was under the assumption that the gears were in the same compartment as the crank

 

EDIT: the chunk of piston is not anywhere near the gears fyi

 

yep, their separate on a 2 smoke, the crank area is lubricated by the oil in the gas. youll see when you guys tear it apart. :cheers:

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Jeno.... Why do you need a new crank? True there are pieces down in the cases however that does not mean gotta replace the crank. It could also be that the pieces of piston got puked up and into the pipe......when you take them off try and dump them out and see if anything comes out. As far as bore vs just a hone.....you gotta remember that these are two stroke motors that run 9-10k rpm....whole lot more than the 4 strokes. And who knows how long the bike has gone without a top end rebuild....and the cylinders could be egg shaped in the middle from natural wear. I send them to a site sponsor on here (I use Jeff at FAST racing) and usually it is a total of about 300 for all gaskets bore/hone and pistons. Make sure that any shop you deal with KNOWS THIER 2 STROKES! If they look at you funny when asked if they chamfer the ports after they bore.....RUN....or else yOur gonna wind up doing this all over again.

 

With stroker cranks on these motors we have a couple of options.....you could go with a spacer (the not recommended way) which will make the clearance by going under the jugs but it will alter the port timings. The recommended way is to get a cool head and run specific 4mil domes. A sponsor will be able to get these for you.

 

A cool head is a aftermarket head that has interchangeable domes. You can get smaller cc domes to raise your compression to make more power (but will also require more octane fuel) or you can get larger domes to keep you away from the need for race fuel. You can also get domes cut for specific applications such as longer rods or stroker motors or odd squish clearances.

 

Cases need to be trenches to fit a +7mil or greater crank....although even with a +4 crank you should still check the rotation while the case is split to ensure that the crank doesn't JUST barely touch.....which has happened before but is extremely rare.

 

When sealing the cases back together you are going to want to use either yamabond or 1211. They are a sealant that are not effected by gas/oil and also stay flexible even after dry......other stuff will harden up and eventually will create an air leak which will lean your bike out and burn holes in your pistons and lean out the lube on your crank bearings.

 

Things to mod while your doing all this would be the shift shaft and the shift star. The shaft mod allows the shifter to actually lift a little higher so you don't mistakenly try and fold your foot off on the extremely short throw that the banshee is designed with. The shift star mod makes the trans shift easier as it then requires less force to shift gears.....this will definitely make it easier to find N....as these bikes can be a bitch to get into N.

 

Make sure that you use a flywheel puller on the flywheel.....NOT A JAW STYLE PULLER as it will damage the flywheel. Which means a new tool to your box.....and yes you need it.....it's only $13.

 

If you have any more questions then just feel free to ask....

 

 

Jereme

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