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?'s on clutch tuning


honda863

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Hi everyone I'm alittle new here but have been working on a few bikes and would really like to be able to get better with clutch management. I am wondering if there are places you can order different clutch springs that are different stiffnesses? Also am wondering where to find lockup weights? Thanks in advance for info.

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Toomey has some decent stiffer springs. Do you already have a lockout? I run 3 stock 3 stiff springs with mine. If you are wanting to put more weight to them put a longer bolt and 2 nuts on them. Make sure the clear ur cover first. I've had the same clutch for 3 years in my bike and K&T said it looked good yet when I rebuilt it this winter. I don't have any weight added on my lockout either

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I personally do not have a direct drive style lockup. Although the bikes I help wrench on do. Thanks for the info I was kinda wondering if maybe a company made different springs, like if you could call up and order say 50lb springs or 60lb. Maybe this isn't practical but just an idea

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Hi everyone I'm alittle new here but have been working on a few bikes and would really like to be able to get better with clutch management. I am wondering if there are places you can order different clutch springs that are different stiffnesses? Also am wondering where to find lockup weights? Thanks in advance for info.

 

Did you read the lock out tuning thread? It will answer most of your questions. As for lock-up weights you can use washers & even an extra nut if there's room. We cut our own using brass or steel, then fine tune with small amounts of washers.

Edited by SlowerThanYou
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clutch pack height stays the same there is no way to change that unless you play with thinner or thicker steels..

 

the springs i personally dont know of anyplace you can just call and get differnt spring rates i have a huge box of springs and will be doing much more with clutch tuning this coming year.

 

staggering your springs can put differnt pressures on your clutch pack and may cause some warpage now i'd think this would be worse with a bike that is rode hard and has a heavy slipping clutch. in the sand/ dirt the clutch isnt as important as you would think. doing things with rider position and tire size can affect traction a lot like the way a clutch is used to control traction in a 0 change traction situation ( like asphault).

 

the lockups i am just starting to understand more. and the more research i do about them and how the profesional automotive/ MC drag world deals with clutch management the more i think the current styles are behind the times about 30+ years. they are better than what was used in the early days but still nothing like whats current popularity in "pro" world.. i cannot find or know of a real time data recorder for our situation ( small cheap and useable) although thats one of the things i'm looking into with a modified digitron. if your playing with spring pressures and finger weights the only thing you can tell for sure is if you make a change in time on a timed track OR stop an excessivly slipping clutch. with out data management you ( in my opinion) cannot really tell whats going on in your clutch.

 

my best advice is to do a shit ton of your own testing and research get a spring pressure tester and start buying springs OR you might be able to call barnett and ask them about differnt springs and go from there. the best advice i can tell you right now is rember changing yoru spring effect will change the lockup effect as well.

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in the sand/ dirt the clutch isnt as important as you would think. doing things with rider position and tire size can affect traction a lot like the way a clutch is used to control traction in a 0 change traction situation ( like asphault).

 

I like most of your post, but I'm not sure if I totally understand your asphalt analogy? IMO, I also believe the clutch is very important on sand.

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The cam spring tester is what I was going to try and see how it works. Also I was going to buy many different brands of springs and test them all for pressures because from what I have heard every companies so called hd springs are not the same. As for the clutch tuning in sand vs asphalt I would think it would matter but there is only one way to find out.

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i bought a spring tension tester off of the sled shop for snowmobiles and started there,also realize that i have been fucking with this for over two years now and am still learning everypass,i have a log book for data ,i have fried many clutches and have countless hrs in testing .Every motor is diffrent so its kinda hard to tell someone if they need 100lbs of pressure or any number for that matter,i will tell you one ring is not enouph!The spring tension tester was about $150

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i bought a spring tension tester off of the sled shop for snowmobiles and started there,also realize that i have been fucking with this for over two years now and am still learning everypass,i have a log book for data ,i have fried many clutches and have countless hrs in testing .Every motor is diffrent so its kinda hard to tell someone if they need 100lbs of pressure or any number for that matter,i will tell you one ring is not enouph!The spring tension tester was about $150

 

When we started asphalt racing in 2005. I think our 1st clutch lasted 4 passes. It took us about 4 years to really get comfortable tuning the clutch. Now with 800-900 passes under our belt. Our clutch frictions last 100 runs or more.

 

About the only way I will recommend a clutch baseline set-up. Is to a friends set-up that I know well & I prefer to be at the track when they start testing.

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