Boston Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 the temp changes with each season yes? well adjust for it! just do what they said and keep note of where u was before you turned them. you can always go back it wont hurt anything. experiment, if you dont youll never learn! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 6, 2011 Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 Look in your owners manual, it might tell how to adjust idle. There is a knob (about 12mm in diameter) on top of each carb, adjust both same amount. Will only need a little, maybe 1/16- 1/8 turn. What has happened is that cables strech and parts wear ever so slightly and you have to adjust for it. Also, check/clean your air filter. larrys shee is exactly right......new cables stretch and pistons and cylinder bores slightly wear (break-in) causing very small adjustments to be needed. Yes you can adjust it by eye/sound.....you wont hurt it. Remember.....for all intensive purposes......its a 2stroke....its a sloppy, oil burning "stupid" engine. IM NOT SAYING ITS A BAD MOTOR GUYS.....what im saying is its an oil quenched carbeurated motor with no brains to try and tune it on the fly. so that being said......unless your running with no air filters, or leaning the snot out of it (by changing your jets way too much OR putting mods on your banshee WITHOUT jetting for them) you shouldn't have a problem other than natural wear and tear from riding..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2011 larrys shee is exactly right......new cables stretch and pistons and cylinder bores slightly wear (break-in) causing very small adjustments to be needed. Yes you can adjust it by eye/sound.....you wont hurt it. Remember.....for all intensive purposes......its a 2stroke....its a sloppy, oil burning "stupid" engine. IM NOT SAYING ITS A BAD MOTOR GUYS.....what im saying is its an oil quenched carbeurated motor with no brains to try and tune it on the fly. so that being said......unless your running with no air filters, or leaning the snot out of it (by changing your jets way too much OR putting mods on your banshee WITHOUT jetting for them) you shouldn't have a problem other than natural wear and tear from riding..... Ah k ill give it a try, though should I try disconnect the tors cable first and if that doesn't work re-connect tors cable and then adjust the idle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 7, 2011 Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 sure you can try and disconnect the tors electrical connector first.....it'll take seconds to do. just unplug the wires that go into the little black box that is on the left side under the fuel tank. if it still shuts off then you can adjust your idle using the twist knobs on the top of the TORS units themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2011 kk thanks guys you've all been a lot of help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
omar1412 Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 I had the same problem yesterday and I have the same model 2011, for the first 2 hours my shee was doing great ( I let it cool down every 1 hour ) after that It started to shut down when idling or when I wanted to change between gears. I cleaned my airfilter yesterday and tried it today it seems to be good but I have not take for a ride yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I had a look at my carb windows yesterday and it looked like mylifted slidelifted higher than centre. Does the idle screws on the tors lift/lower the slides or do I have to do it from the knob/cable on top of the carb? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 11, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2011 I had a look at my carb windows yesterday and it looked like mylifted slidelifted higher than centre. Does the idle screws on the tors lift/lower the slides or do I have to do it from the knob/cable on top of the carb? EDIT: looked like my left carb slide lifted higher than centre when looking through carb window. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2011 Bump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 I had a look at my carb windows yesterday and it looked like mylifted slidelifted higher than centre. Does the idle screws on the tors lift/lower the slides or do I have to do it from the knob/cable on top of the carb? Ok.......when you rotate the knob on the top of the TORS box.....it is pulling the slide up to adjust the idle. This is what you use to adjust your idle on a stock set of carbs with the TORS. There are no idle screws on the carb....unless you have purchased a "TORS eliminator kit" which requires you to drill out a hole in the side of both carbs and INSTALL a idle screw kit, and then install new carb caps. The knobs on the top of the TORS are used as both the idle adjustment AND the carb sync adjustment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Ah ok but one last question before I do it. The thing I don't get is that the shee is already idling low but the left carb slide is lifting higher than centre when looking at carb window. If I adjust the left slide to go down to centre wouldn't that make it rev even lower than what it is now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 Ah ok but one last question before I do it. The thing I don't get is that the shee is already idling low but the left carb slide is lifting higher than centre when looking at carb window. If I adjust the left slide to go down to centre wouldn't that make it rev even lower than what it is now? how about raising the right to the left? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted December 14, 2011 Report Share Posted December 14, 2011 In my opinion your best bet would be to just buy the TORS Eliminator kit. I think you would gain a few things by taking to time to install this easy modification. 1) free up space around the carbs that is taken up by the TORS. 2) you will not have to deal with wires, brain, breaking small plastic idle adjustment screws, ect... 3) easier to take carbs out to clean and or rejet for climate changes. 4) makes for quick easy idle adjustments on the side of each carb. There is a catch though, you will have to drill a small hole in the side of each carb in a pre determined spot already on the carb. You will then have to tap threads to put the idle screw in each carb. Really quite simple and kinda hard to mess up if you spend much time in the garage. If I recall, you can buy a TORS eliminator kit with the following components. - new throttle cable with the caps that screw on to the top of each carb where the TORS unit was. -throttle screw for each carb - and even a tap for the correct threads. I believe you will need to furnish the correct drill bit, it should tell you what size and how to do this entire process in the instructions. If not, most of everyone on here could walk you through it step by step in our sleep. Just a thought though, in my opinion I would just ditch the TORS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 you can sinc it ok ....... id does not sound like tors at all. tors activates the killswitch, so it would cut off right away. it sounds more like your mixture is off and you just fouled one out, running on one cyl, which will sound like poo, and shake good. it really helps to measure the slide opening to start, but a good setting, iirc, is 1.75 turns from when the slide bottoms out on each side, though it may be different on the stock carbs. you will know if it idles real high, lol. turn your airscrews in untill seated clockwise, and back out 2 turns.(i am assuming you are completely stock, even with the snorkel attatched, or at least the airbox lid.) now, fire it up and get it hot (normal operating temp) and adjust the idle screws to get a good idle the same amount on both sides. likely, one pipe will be slightly mis-firing. adjust the airscrew on that carb 1/8 turn and wait about 10sec. for it to catch up to the mixture. now, feel the pressure coming out, if one is stronger, increase the idle on the other side carb to be even. now you have a basis to fine tune idle speed and mixture some more. ideally, you want to get it to it's highest idle with the mixture alone, and if it's real high, turn the idle down some and adjust the mixture again, remembering to allow it to catch up. typically, you are going to be in the 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 turn range on the airscrews. (remember that they control idle air flow that mixes with the pilot jet fuel, not fuel flow like a 4-stroke) once you have reached the highest idle, turn them in 1/8 turn. keep an eye on the idle speed, as it may drop a little, and you will have to go up a little. doubble check the exhaust pressures and you have the idle synced. now, shut it off and look at your windows on the carbs, a little tricky, but you can see them both at the same time. make sure slack is adjusted right, you generally want a good 1/8-1/4" slack in the throttle lever. now, while waqtching the slides, slowly depress the throttle and see which one moves first. you want them to start to move at the same time. you can either slack the one that moves first, or tighten the one that moves second, depending on how much cable slack/adjustment you have at the pertch. how you do this, is the cable retainers. you can pull back on the metal elbows untill they no longer lock the cable from twisting, then turn them, and be sure to seat them back into the retainer and stab the throttle all the way while wiggling the elbows to make sure. repeat as necessary. remember- if there is no slack in the cables, it can trip the tors switches, and is not good on cable life/condition. you can check for excess slack by stabbing the throttle and making sure it moves them enough for the little dots to appear fullly in the windows. if you have a throttle stop, this is where you adjust it to hit the screw, and not where it tightens the cable with the slides topped out. it will help with cable life. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uf21 Posted December 18, 2011 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2011 Wow thanks heathen for such detailed info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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