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NEWBIE ? 04 BANSHEE BOGGING DOWN WHEN THROTTLE... VIDEO


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I HAVE A 04 BANSHEE THAT I GOT BOUT 3 MONTHS AGO ND TOOK IT APART ND HAD THE FRAME PAINTED AND THE PLASTIC PAINTED AND GOT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND STARTED IT AND IT RAN FINE FOR BOUT 5 OR 10 MINS W ME HITTING THROTTLE EVERY NOW AND THEN AND HAD THE RESPONSE AS IF EVERYTHING WAS FINE AND THEN THE GUY HELPN ME STUCK HIS HAND DOWN BY THE RIGHT CARB AND HE SAYS HE DIDNT TOUCH IT BUT I THINK HE DID BC I HEARD IT GO TO DIE OUT, BUT FROM WHAT HE SAYS IF HE WOULDVE TOUCHED IT ALL IT WOULDVE DONE WAS CHOKE IT OUT BUT AFTER THAT IT STARTED DOING WHAT ITS DOING NOW AND LIKE BOGGING OUT WHEN U HIT THE THROTTLE, IVE GOT A VIDEO ON YOUTUBE.COM JUST SEARCH BANSHEE NEED HELP BOGGING OUT, AND IT WILL COME UP AND YOU CAN HEAR WHAT IT DOES WHEN I HIT THE THROTTLE AND SEE WHAT LIL BIT OF SMOKE IM TALKING ABOUT, IT DIDNT USE TO SMOKE LIKE THAT. WE TOOK THE CARB OFF AND HE SPRAYED IT WITH CARB CLEANER AND WE CHECKED THE REEDS AND HE SAID THEY WASNT STUCK SO I ONNO HOPEFULLY SOMEONE CAN HELP ME, IVE GOTTA RIDE IN A FEW DAYS ID LIKE TO GO ON IF I GET IT FIGURED OUT. ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED

THANKS

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do you still have the TORS on your bike? if you do try disconnecting the little black box that's under the left side of the gas tank.....its the TORS brain box.

 

Edit: YUP.....just watched your video. you still have TORS.... disconnect that brain and try it....bet it works

 

 

yea the tors is still on it but when i got it that lil box under the gas tank on the left beside the coil was unplugged already so im guessing thats what ur talking about? if so its unplugged. & thanks for ur help i would just like to get it fixed. anymore input would be greatly appreciated

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Settle down. I wont grammar police you here but you know what u did wrong. Anyways maybe start with a compression test its pretty easy so not a huge waist of time. Sounds like maybe u got an air leak. Clean ur air filter i assume to? But im am no expert.

 

no the air filter and box isnt on it right now, but yes i just cleaned and oiled it bout a month ago, should i do it again? ill do a compression test today and post back. thanks for your help, and sorry bout the CAPS lock if thats what you were talking about, i seem to always wanna use caps for some reason lol, but thanks for your help ill post back later

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well someone told us to check the ohms or whatever for the resistance on the coil and stator and i had my uncle to take a multimeter and do it and he didnt get a reading on the coil. im gonna do a compression test later or first thing in the morning and will post back, let me know what everyone thinks if it could possibly be the coil causing that, the spark on the rt side dont look as good as the lft side, the rt side had a lil red or orange in it and didnt look to be hittn all the time but i think the lil tester he had was layn on the exhaust and was arcn on it so i think im gonna go ahead and check that again myself and maybe take a video of it to look at, i called a local shop and they are booked up for a couple weeks so i guess im just gonna try to figure it out myself... or as long as my patience will let me lol but it just takes time and process of elimination. thanks for the thoughts and keep em comin.

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unplug tors brain box over left pipe on frame.also,sounds like parking brake.if u still have the factory clutch perch with the wires going to the perch,cut them straight thru with side cuts.there should be 2.snip those wires and grab some heat shrink tubing and put it over the end,hit it with a lighter and smash the end with ur fingers to keep it from shorting.snip those and i bet ur in there bro.report back.i wouldnt b wasting time ohming shit,its parking brake or tors.more likely parking brake.it does that so u cant go with it engaged.sometimes the plunger gets fucked up.everybody removes parking brake anyway.ur buddy didnt do it..

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unplug tors brain box over left pipe on frame.also,sounds like parking brake.if u still have the factory clutch perch with the wires going to the perch,cut them straight thru with side cuts.there should be 2.snip those wires and grab some heat shrink tubing and put it over the end,hit it with a lighter and smash the end with ur fingers to keep it from shorting.snip those and i bet ur in there bro.report back.i wouldnt b wasting time ohming shit,its parking brake or tors.more likely parking brake.it does that so u cant go with it engaged.sometimes the plunger gets fucked up.everybody removes parking brake anyway.ur buddy didnt do it..

actually when we were changing the rear brakes when we first got it and the screw going into that i guess u tighten the parking brake w broke, but it ran for awhile like that and ran fine untill he stuck his hand by the carb and it startd doin it, ill ck the perch, i planned on getting a block off plate for my back brake but havent yet. but im gonna do the things you said and go ahead and ck the back brake plunger, and do a compression test and everything and will post back. thanks

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unplug tors brain box over left pipe on frame.also,sounds like parking brake.if u still have the factory clutch perch with the wires going to the perch,cut them straight thru with side cuts.there should be 2.snip those wires and grab some heat shrink tubing and put it over the end,hit it with a lighter and smash the end with ur fingers to keep it from shorting.snip those and i bet ur in there bro.report back.i wouldnt b wasting time ohming shit,its parking brake or tors.more likely parking brake.it does that so u cant go with it engaged.sometimes the plunger gets fucked up.everybody removes parking brake anyway.ur buddy didnt do it..

where is the clutch perch located at? i looked on the internet and from what i can see its the lil round thing w wires on the clutch lever? am i correct or wrong? just needed steered to where its at to ck it and do the wires if they havent been done. thanks

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yes the only wires going into that little round thing on the clutch lever.that is the parking brake plunger and is not needed.just with the bike off,just cut them to where there not connected lol.i cant really explain it better and u cant really fuck it up lol.take side cuts and snip.then start it and rev it.when it runs good,close the open wires off with the heat shrink like i said.

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so i done a compression test today and we got bout 62-65psi out of both sides they were both pretty much putting off the same compression, and my uncle unplugged the parking brake thing on the clutch lever im guessing what the ppl on bansheehg was calling the clutch perch but we cut those 2 wires on thatnd put em together and put heat shrink on it and sealed it up good and gave it a kick....... and it came ALIVE :) Thanks to all that helped with advise it was GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks alot volcrano u had it right. i just wasnt for sure if that was it but there wasnt no more wires just like u said so we went ahead and cut em, i figured if worse come to worse if it was the wrong ones then i could strip em and put em back together lol thanks tho for all the help everyone.

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no problem bud,thats what were here for. :cheers:

 

i also wanna add,if u got 65 psi i dont know how its running lol.u should have no less than 90,but around 100-110 stock,with no less than 5 psi difference between cyls.make sure u have a good gauge,not a autozone junky gauge.get motor to operating temps then shut off.u want the rings to expand and seal the best they can thats why u check it hot.screw gauge in head.hold throttle wide open and kick till it stops.make sure ur key is off.sounds like maybe u did it cold and with closed throttle.

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