Thack82 Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Okay the new Serval Cub is on tuned and Broke in. Jeff at F.A.S.T. did a great job helping me out with this XC Set Up, and Withrow Power Sports did a unbelievable job on the Fine Tuning and Carburetor Jetting. Now I'm back to the same problems I was having back last winter, I'm Slipping my Clutch . I have a Drive Line Trail and Track Clutch with the YZF/R1 Friction Plates and the stiffest clutch springs available its supposed to be good for 80 Horse Power... I have that coupled with a Stream-Line Hydraulic Clutch/Slave/Master Cylinder, and a Barnett Billet Clutch Basket. and when I light into it and she hits the Power Band it slips pretty bad. So I guess its time to buy a Lock Up! I like the guys at Drive Line they have helped me work through this problem once before and there clutches are priced great and perform very well. Jeff estimated my motor to have 95+- Horse Power so I I'm sure thats the problem I'm putting out to much horse power for my existing clutch set up. I want to buy the lock up that fits in the OEM size Clutch Case because I just got through aether buying new Polished upgrades or Polishing my existing mods to a near show finish. Lane at Drive Line emailed me and told me that they made a Clutch Lock Up that would fit behind the OEM Clutch Case, its $199.99 Shipped. Do any of you guys have any experience with the Drive Line Lock Ups? Or even Better do any of you have a used Lock up that fits behind the OEM Clutch Cover you can cut me a deal on? Please let me know if you have one and what you want for it. Thanks, Thack82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BANSHEE HP Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 go with driveline performance http://www.drivelineperformance.com/servlet/the-21/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-LOCK-dsh-UP-CLUTCH/Detail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedSheeRida Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Slingshot lockup, been running one for 15 months. I love it and would def recommend it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 Pay the man that designed that clutch. Don't encourage copy cats! Go with Kevin's Slingshot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 12, 2011 Report Share Posted October 12, 2011 http://gigotracing.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted October 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Okay I just got a email back from the Slingshot guy. His Lock up that fits behind the stock cover is $295.00 plus shipping VS the $199.99 Shipped for the Drive Line equivalent. What do you guys honesty think? I figured if I decided to go with the Drive Line Lock Up I would go ahead and buy a new Clutch kit and install it while I was in there. Drive Line just developed a new Dune & Trail 8 Plate Extreme Clutch Kit thats supposed to be the shit... There Heavy Duty Trail and Track OEM Style Set up with Super Stiff springs (A Hydraulic Clutch Lever Is Required) is $62.00 This new 8 Plate Set Up is almost $95.00 by the time you get it shipped. I'm thinking thats my best option though, I have always had great luck out of Drive Line Products and there Customer Service is outstanding. I can get this new 8 Plate Upgraded Kit and the Billet Lock Up shipped for the same amount of money that the Slingshots going to set me back. Jeff at F.A.S.T. said I should be able to upgrade my Inner and Outer Clutch Hubs and solve this problem but the Hinson Kit I looked at was over $900.00 and I could still have issues. Is there a down side to running a Lock Up? Can it make the Bike hard to shift or something. I haven't got a reply back from Jeff yet but there has to be a reason why he would recommend a a Hub set up that cost nearly three times more than the Lock Up and the new 8 Plate Drive Line Clutch Kit. He's brilliant when it comes to ATV set ups and Banshee Performance. His stock stoke motors Dyno right up there with everybody elses 4mil set ups. I'm hell on a clutch to begin with I run Hare Scrambles and Woods Race my Banshee and I prefer a tall gear. I run 15/42 Sprockets on the stock .020 Cylinder Set Up. I did have a issue one time running Klotz Flex Drive 30. About half way through a race my 2 Week Old 75HP Rated Drive Line Clutch started slipping and it continually go worse as the race went on. When I got back to work on Monday I called Drive Line and I told them that I was slipping there 75HP set upand I knew there was no way I was putting down 75+HP on my bike with NO Port Work, Stock Cylinders with a .020 Punch. I am a huge Fan of Klotz Super Techno-Plate 2-Stroke Oil and I just assumed the $18.00 a quart Flex Drive was as good as you could get. They told me to get that shit out of there and run Mobil-1 10W-30 Motor Oil. I did and it solved the problem. I knew that you had to be very careful and make absolute sure that you didn't run any oil with a Friction Inhibitor in the Transmission because it would cause the clutch to slip. So I called Mobil-1's Tech Line and ask them if there 10W-30 had any Friction Inhibitors in it and they said it did so I switched over to Lucas Full Synthetic 5W-30 Performance/Racing 2-Stroke Motorcycle and Dirt Bike Oil that was safe for ALL Wet Clutch Applications for both 2 and 4 Stroke Engines and it has worked awesome. I was up in the air between the Lucas and AMS Oil Dominator and I decided to go with the Lucas because it was readily available and on the shelf at the O'Rielly's Auto Parts Store thats less than a mile from my house and it only cost $7.79 per quart. I have had Transmission or Clutch Problems running the Lucas Plus 3oz of Two2Cool (ATV Transmission Cooling Additive thats Safe for Wet Clutches). I change it about every four to six months depending on whats been going on and alot of the time the Oil is almost a light Syrup Color. This Is the Transmission Oil I run: And I run about 3-4 OZ of this Cooling Additive along with it: Come on Surly somebody has a Lock Up Laying around that there not using out of a Banshee they've parted out or something that they can save me some money on. I just don't know how much more money I can spend.... But I've got it this far without cutting any corners and its way to late to start!!! Anyways keep the input coming, I plan on buying the upgrade I decide to use to fix the clutch slipping problem the beginning of next week. So far I'm leaning towards the Dive Line Dune & Trail 8 Plate Extreme Clutch Kit with R-1 Friction Plates and the Stiffest Springs they offer coupled with the Drive Line Lock Up that fits behind the OEM Style Case.... For $295.00 I'm thinking thats my best choice. I would like to run upon a Aftermarket Pressure Plate to hold it all in my Barnett Billet Clutch Basket but I don't know if you can buy it separate or if the Inner and outer Hubs have to be purchased with it. I would buy the Hub and Pressure Plate Kit too if i could find one for the money. All this POWER and no way to get it to the ground is pissing me off!!! Lucas HD Primary Chaincase Oil Lucas HD Primary Chaincase Oil is a blend of easy flowing base oils and a Lucas additive package designed to carry away more heat from the clutch plates and friction plates. This assures a longer more trouble clutch life. Expect a smooth clutch action, less slippage, longer chain and sprocket life and a much longer oil life. Benefits - Cool & Quiets - Designed for heavy duty high performance situations. - Meets or exceeds all OEM requirements Remember Primary Chaincase Oil is a coolant for the clutch, not a lubricant. Packaging Part #: 10790 - 1 quart - 32 fl. oz. 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sprinklerman Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 Dude, i read your whole post and in my opinion, it sounds like your clutch is not adjusted right or something.... dont you run i hydro lever? I had one that gave me fits when it came to getting any REAL adjustment. I finally went back to a standard cable/lever setup,,,problem solved. I say that its prolly an adjustment issue for that reason AND the fact that myself and several others ARE putting down 75-90hp on the Driveline/R1 clutches ,,,in that sand with paddles, and AREN'T burning them up. If they will stand up to that abuse,they should take Hare Scrambles fine. Something to look into at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gangstahic Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Lol ur not at 95 hp no shot...ask jeff where he pulled that out of Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sprinklerman Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just wanted to clear up what i said about your engine. I was refering to you having 70-ish HP BEFORE F.a.s.t got ahold of it and the clutch slipping. It should have held then. If you are at 95 hp now,,,well, you are pushing the limits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rootracing Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just buy the driveline stuff, I use it and it works great..I have a 7 plate with a driveline lockup worked great on my 10mm DM & my 10mm cub.. I also sell driveline products got it all in stock.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Lol ur not at 95 hp no shot...ask jeff where he pulled that out of I think he actually said high 80's to tell the truth, but I put a whole Dyna-tek Ignition System Coil, Programmable CDI, Accell 8.8mm Moto Racing Spark Plug Wires, 250 watt Stator, Upgraded fly Wheel, and and quite a few other things on there after he made that comment, plus the squish ended up coming out about 38 thousandths and he had estimated that I would have between 45 and 50 thousandths so that bumped me up some. I have just about everything done to the motor that can possibly be done other than a stroker crank of some sort and this is a XC Set Up thats made to come on at a low RPM and be reliable. It was just a estimation, and my Mechanic Matt Withrow who Races MX Pro A on a YZF-125 that is also a graduate from A.M.I. American Motorcycle Institute with certifications in Performance 2 Stroke Engines and ATV, UTV, and Dirt Bike and Motorcycle Racing Suspension along with a stack of others said it would be close to that as well. I don't have any Dyno numbers and it might not put down numbers that high but I don't think your qualified to say what it will or wont put down, and I don't think your going to hear anybody on BHQ or anywhere say Jeff Doesn't know what hes doing and he has the Dyno numbers on similar set ups like mine. I don't know who set you Serval up or what kind of job they do but F.A.S.T. is top of the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 Just wanted to clear up what i said about your engine. I was refering to you having 70-ish HP BEFORE F.a.s.t got ahold of it and the clutch slipping. It should have held then. If you are at 95 hp now,,,well, you are pushing the limits. Maybe I shouldn't have given an estimated number. Jeff told me the set up he put together would be in the high 80's he thought with the current bolt ons I had. I decided to add the following mods to my motor in addition to the list that he had: Pro-Design 28mm Billet Intakes with Boost Bottle. Electro Sport 250 Watt Stator. RMStator Upgraded Flywheel with Stronger magnets Dyna-Tek Programable CDI Box Dyna-Tek Coil Accell 8.8mm Moto Racing Spark Plug wires I also had Withrow Power Sports Bore the Cases for more Horse Power and the Trinity Domes ended up having only 38 thousandths clearance VS the estimated 45 to 50 thousandths clearance so the the motor is a little tighter than we originally thought it was going to be so I had to bump my fuel from 93 Octane Pump Gas to a 110/93 Mix. So I'm not sure but I've had two 2 Stroke mechanics say that was probably pretty close but gangstahic seems to think he knows more than they do so I don't know. I don't have a Dyno sheet on the bike at this time. As far as the Hydraulic lever goes it was a bitch to get adjusted perfectly and bled out. I ended up having to go to the hard ware store and buy a 3" long piece of standard thread stainless hex and re-tap the treads with a 6mm tap and cut it down to a 1.5" long piece. Then I cut a 1 piece of 6mm all thread and covered in in Permatex Loc-Tite and screwed it into attachment arm. This made the arm 1.5 inches longer and allowed to to pull the adjustment to the desired location. When I got finished you couldn't even tell that I had modded it. Then I ended up having to use a electric vacuum pump to pull the Mineral oil up into the lines and got it bled. The first few times I rode I had to add a little oil to the Master cylinder but after that my lever has been problem free. I run a Low end set up that has a lot of low end mods that produce a shit load of low end torque for trail riding and woods racing. The power band was just to short with 13/42 gearing and I couldn't utilize the power band. It was great in the woods but I would get my ass eaten alive in the open fields so I jumped to 15/42 gearing and my Banshee was a whole new animal. The tall gearing combined with the low end torque and my riding style is hell on clutches. Now I have this Serval Mono Block Cylinder Set up and I think its just to much for the clutch without a Lock Up. Thanks for you input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lms1977 Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 I run a clutch from east coast atv with 3 hd springs and 3 std springs it holds my 10mil serval and does not slip I can clutch it at any rpm in third gear with paddles hillclimbing and it will wheelie instantly!! no idea what my hp is but the specs are as follows 10mil crank serval 68mm cyl port matched to case 35 pwk carbs with 8in pods v force 3 reeds 165 psi 50/50 race fuel 4 deg timing shearer in frames small bore Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Koolguyson Posted October 14, 2011 Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 you gain maybe 5% going from pump to race gas. also dont see you getting 90+ with those pipes you have, they sure I too don't see you going from an 85hp motor (which I think this will be) to a 95hp motor with the things you've added. But I guess we are all stupid because our names aren't Jeff. Good luck with your bike though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thack82 Posted October 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2011 you gain maybe 5% going from pump to race gas. also dont see you getting 90+ with those pipes you have, they sure I don't know about the pipes restricting Horse Power.... Thats the way Banshee guys are they hate them or they love them. I will say that the Paul Turner Pipes and Fat Boy II Silencers make a Banshee react completely different than any other pipe. I've rode with other Banshees with Toomy's and Sheers. The Serval makes the best power on R2's fro what I've read those pipes are supposed to be awesome all around pipes. I wouldn't think the PT's would do to bad, Duncan makes the ELIMINATOR 500cc Mono Block set up and they run the PT's on it. Thanks for your input. I think I'm going to end up going with the same set up Roots has on his Banshee. I think that set up will take a beating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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