Clutch Lock Up Wanted.

[Thack82]

you gain maybe 5% going from pump to race gas. also dont see you getting 90+ with those pipes you have, they sure

 

Zilla I'm not trying to start shit but have you seen my complete build sheet? I have advanced my timing and a upgraded ignition system will add horse power. I know 99.9% BHQ members say a boost bottle doesn't add power but I seen dyno charts where builders have proven they add about 1.2 horse power over a set of intakes that don't have a boost bottle. I know thats a tiny amount of Horse Power and I doubt you can even feel it, but they do add some horse power. If I can find the test and R&D I'll paste it on here. I believe Duncan did it. I need to past a complete engine mod list on here as well, I'll try to get it up tonight.

 

The reasion I thought my House power would be more than originally anticipated was not so much in the extra performance parts I added but the Case work and the squish difference. Like I said I'm not trying to start a pissing match but things you say don't always make sense.

[sprinklerman]

Zilla I'm not trying to start shit but have you seen my complete build sheet? I have advanced my timing and a upgraded ignition system will add horse power. I know 99.9% BHQ members say a boost bottle doesn't add power but I seen dyno charts where builders have proven they add about 1.2 horse power over a set of intakes that don't have a boost bottle. I know thats a tiny amount of Horse Power and I doubt you can even feel it, but they do add some horse power. If I can find the test and R&D I'll paste it on here. I believe Duncan did it. I need to past a complete engine mod list on here as well, I'll try to get it up tonight.

 

The reasion I thought my House power would be more than originally anticipated was not so much in the extra performance parts I added but the Case work and the squish difference. Like I said I'm not trying to start a pissing match but things you say don't always make sense.

 

I think what people are saying man, is that even if you WERE pushing 90hp,for your type of riding you shouldn't need a lockup. I'm running a 4mil Serval with all the goodies and drag raced/hot lapped thru 2.5 tanks of fuel straight thru and didn't slip or burn my clutch (driveline btw),,,. that was in the sand .....with paddles. and that was after duning for 2 hrs. that's pretty harsh on a clutch.

So i guess what im saying is,,triple check your clutch adjustment , i bet its off . It should be holding what you are doing. Either way,something is off IMO.

 

.

[Thack82]

Heres what I decided on, I know some of you guys think this set up might be a little over kill but I don't want to take any chances of getting beat because my clutch is slipping and not getting all the power to the ground. I have searched the internet for the past two weeks and this is what I feel like is the best products for the money that should take the clutch issues I'm having out of the equation:

 

YAMAHA BANSHEE LOCK-UP

 

This is our stealth lock-up clutch that fits under the stock side cover with only slight modifications. The lock-up is machined from 6061 billet aluminum, anodized black and utilizes ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack. The billet pressure plate that houses the ball bearings takes the place of the stock cast pressure plate giving it a more ridgid durability.

Our lock-up uses ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack and is fully adjustable from the trail rider to the full drag racer. The amount of pressure that is applied to the clutch varies depending on the amount of ball bearings used in conjunction with the clutch spring stiffness. We have used our lock up clutch on 50H.P. quads up to 145H.P. drag engines.

The purpose of a lock up clutch is to limit the amount of clutch slippage and apply the H.P. to the ground. Since there is a limited amount of clutch slippage the life span of the clutch pack is greatly extended.

 

 

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

YAMAHA BANSHEE MATTOON 8 PLATE BILLET CLUTCH BASKET

 

 

This is a brand new clutch basket, it is made from one solid block of 7075 aircraft quality aluminum. The backing plate is made of 4130 Chromoly and is mounted with grade 8 5/16 bolts to insure there are no problems. It includes the best cushions on the market. This basket can be used as a 7 or an 8 plate with no modifications to the basket.

 

 

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

YAMAHA BANSHEE DUNE/TRAIL 8 PLATE EXTREME CLUTCH KIT!

FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!!

 

YAMAHA BANSHEE 8 PLATE CLUTCH KIT.

This kit is designed for Banshees that have an aftermarket inner hub that can hold eight friction plates and seven steel plates. This kit will not fit in a standard clutch basket and inner hub set-up(standard clutch kits only have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates.)

We have been an ATV dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being dynoed, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower.

 

When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground.

 

We have come up with a clutch kit combination that has worked well over the years and finally are able to have the kits made to our specifications.

 

1. We use the friction plates out of a 1997 YZF1000 street bike. These friction plates can stand up to high horsepower and are very durable.

 

2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. The steel plates are full plates which give maximum contact area with the friction plates. Our steels are smooth on both sides, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. The "dimples" are concave in shape which reduces surface material and contact area causing easier clutch slippage. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch(The clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.

 

3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 20%-25% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

The guys at Driveline Performance have been great to deal with any time I've had clutch issues and they have discounted both the 8 Plate Clutch Kit and the Lock Up for me. I would buy a Driveline Billet Clutch Basket too but as of right now they don't make one. I looked into just about every Lock Up made and theres is really the only one that is designed like that. Mattoon had a lock up that went behind the OEM style Case as well and it was quite a bit cheaper but I think you had to buy a Pressure Plate to go along with the lock up and I would have wanted to put an aftermarket in with the Lock Up and it would have ended up costing me more in the long run.

I'm going to get my current build sheet posted tonight or tomorrow and I have a call into Duncan about the R&D and Dyno Charts that they did on the 28mm Billet Intakes VS the Stock OEM 26mm Intakes. I'll try to get that up as soon as possible. Thanks again for all your input.

 

 

 

 

1

[Thack82]

Heres what I decided on, I know some of you guys think this set up might be a little over kill but I don't want to take any chances of getting beat because my clutch is slipping and not getting all the power to the ground. I have searched the internet for the past two weeks and this is what I feel like is the best products for the money that should take the clutch issues I'm having out of the equation:

 

YAMAHA BANSHEE LOCK-UP

 

This is our stealth lock-up clutch that fits under the stock side cover with only slight modifications. The lock-up is machined from 6061 billet aluminum, anodized black and utilizes ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack. The billet pressure plate that houses the ball bearings takes the place of the stock cast pressure plate giving it a more ridgid durability.

Our lock-up uses ball bearings to apply pressure to the clutch pack and is fully adjustable from the trail rider to the full drag racer. The amount of pressure that is applied to the clutch varies depending on the amount of ball bearings used in conjunction with the clutch spring stiffness. We have used our lock up clutch on 50H.P. quads up to 145H.P. drag engines.

The purpose of a lock up clutch is to limit the amount of clutch slippage and apply the H.P. to the ground. Since there is a limited amount of clutch slippage the life span of the clutch pack is greatly extended.

 

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

YAMAHA BANSHEE MATTOON 8 PLATE BILLET CLUTCH BASKET

 

 

This is a brand new clutch basket, it is made from one solid block of 7075 aircraft quality aluminum. The backing plate is made of 4130 Chromoly and is mounted with grade 8 5/16 bolts to insure there are no problems. It includes the best cushions on the market. This basket can be used as a 7 or an 8 plate with no modifications to the basket.

 

 

___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

YAMAHA BANSHEE DUNE/TRAIL 8 PLATE EXTREME CLUTCH KIT!

FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!!

 

YAMAHA BANSHEE 8 PLATE CLUTCH KIT.

This kit is designed for Banshees that have an aftermarket inner hub that can hold eight friction plates and seven steel plates. This kit will not fit in a standard clutch basket and inner hub set-up(standard clutch kits only have 7 friction plates and 6 steel plates.)

We have been an ATV dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being dynoed, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower.

 

When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground.

 

We have come up with a clutch kit combination that has worked well over the years and finally are able to have the kits made to our specifications.

 

1. We use the friction plates out of a 1997 YZF1000 street bike. These friction plates can stand up to high horsepower and are very durable.

 

2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. The steel plates are full plates which give maximum contact area with the friction plates. Our steels are smooth on both sides, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. The "dimples" are concave in shape which reduces surface material and contact area causing easier clutch slippage. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch(The clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.

 

3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 20%-25% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

The guys at Driveline Performance have been great to deal with any time I've had clutch issues and they have discounted both the 8 Plate Clutch Kit and the Lock Up for me. I would buy a Driveline Billet Clutch Basket too but as of right now they don't make one. I looked into just about every Lock Up made and theres is really the only one that is designed like that. Mattoon had a lock up that went behind the OEM style Case as well and it was quite a bit cheaper but I think you had to buy a Pressure Plate to go along with the lock up and I would have wanted to put an aftermarket in with the Lock Up and it would have ended up costing me more in the long run.

I'm going to get my current build sheet posted tonight or tomorrow and I have a call into Duncan about the R&D and Dyno Charts that they did on the 28mm Billet Intakes VS the Stock OEM 26mm Intakes. I'll try to get that up as soon as possible. Thanks again for all your input.

 

 

 

 

1