UPbansheeRacer Posted September 27, 2011 Report Share Posted September 27, 2011 i am lowering my bike when deer season starts cause ill be done riding for the year i have a lowering kit that lowers the rear like 4 inches and the front 3 or something like that has anybody used boyseen reeds how do they work? im looking for a square nobby tire thats flat to stud what do you guys run? what kind of studs? im hoping to find a nice used set of pro circuit pipes but i will run stock if i have to...what kind of front tires do you ice racers run? any other tips you guys got type away im only 14 and this will be my first year starting in january Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
screaminshee Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 Hey where in the UP you going to race!? Boysen reeds are basically top notch when it comes to reeds. I would recommend the V-Force 3 Reeds. Thats what I run. For rear tires the only way to go is 18" cheng shins. The square knobs. Front tires like said is a personal preference but most use Holeshot MXR6 I believe is what they are called. The only thing is that it is best to run a 21" front tire as it raises the front and helps with traction. As for exhaust the pro circuit is a great idea. I would really recommend getting aftermarket exhaust as it will make a noticeable difference. Other fair priced exhaust would be Toomey, either T-5 which is said to be better or T-6's. Also available is the FMF but those are not supposed to be that good although anything is better than stock. As for other tips I would highly suggest a sway - bar. It is almost a must. Also nerf bars and a tether kill switch are mandatory for most racing. To save money you should check your studs every time you come into the pits. You wont pull a stud so youll hold air and wont ruin your tire. For studs Kold Kutter is highly used. DO NOT USE 1/2" STUDS! They are not long enough to hold in the tire and will rip out instantly. Especially in rear tires. And stay away from fine threaded studs as they dont hold in the tire as well as the course thread does and lastly any gold stud is usually better than black ones. Good Luck!! Last season I raced a dash for cash in the UP so let me know where your going to race!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nieskes Posted November 29, 2011 Report Share Posted November 29, 2011 cheng shins will get the job done like these guys said, you will soon find out what you need after your first time out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slpzw24 Posted December 1, 2011 Report Share Posted December 1, 2011 ok ill start this i guess...lol ice racing is the same as flat track. the perfect setup is going to depend on what the rider likes as all riders are different lol. but the idea is to get as low and flat as you can without effecting the handling of the bike. if you want to go with a setup that would be quick and easy to change back and forth from ice or flat track racing to woods and trail riding...go with a crj lowering kit front and rear. those on stock lenght shocks will get you low enough to be stable through the corners and when you want to hit the trails, just move the shocks back up to the factory settings and ride lol. a sway bar can be home made and work the same as an off the shelf bar but....they arnt not as safe and might dammage the way the suspension works if they arnt built the right way and out of the right materials. i would deff recommend a sway bar as its going to help keep you flat through the corners. the only time you really want to have heavy body (suspenion) roll is if your racing mx or trail riding. hope this helps, just remeber...keep it flat and level...go fast...and turn left lol...good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nieskes Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 ok ill start this i guess...lol ice racing is the same as flat track. the perfect setup is going to depend on what the rider likes as all riders are different lol. but the idea is to get as low and flat as you can without effecting the handling of the bike. if you want to go with a setup that would be quick and easy to change back and forth from ice or flat track racing to woods and trail riding...go with a crj lowering kit front and rear. those on stock lenght shocks will get you low enough to be stable through the corners and when you want to hit the trails, just move the shocks back up to the factory settings and ride lol. a sway bar can be home made and work the same as an off the shelf bar but....they arnt not as safe and might dammage the way the suspension works if they arnt built the right way and out of the right materials. i would deff recommend a sway bar as its going to help keep you flat through the corners. the only time you really want to have heavy body (suspenion) roll is if your racing mx or trail riding. hope this helps, just remeber...keep it flat and level...go fast...and turn left lol...good luck Did you read his post? This almost answers zero of his questions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ban99shee Posted December 2, 2011 Report Share Posted December 2, 2011 i am lowering my bike when deer season starts cause ill be done riding for the year i have a lowering kit that lowers the rear like 4 inches and the front 3 or something like that has anybody used boyseen reeds how do they work? im looking for a square nobby tire thats flat to stud what do you guys run? what kind of studs? im hoping to find a nice used set of pro circuit pipes but i will run stock if i have to...what kind of front tires do you ice racers run? any other tips you guys got type away im only 14 and this will be my first year starting in january Buy a good helmet. And a neck brace if you can afford one. Cheng Chin C826 rear tires(like the other guys said) seem to be the hot set-up for the rears. Magic Racing has them for $55 each w/free shipping. Maxxis Razors are not bad either(rear) and are also really cheap. I'm running Pure Sport Bandits on the front. They are kinda hard to find but show up here and there. You want the front tires to be taller than the rear. Just about everyone seems to use Kold Kutter studs. Run 1" studs or they will just come out and ruin your tires. Using rubber tire glue from RC cars holds them in better than rubber cement from my recent test. Being that you are only 14..I imagine your body weight is kinda light. I would look at getting a -2 swingarm to help with traction. A swaybar is basically a must too. Try a lot of gear ratios...it's cheap and you can find huge gains. Keep your studs off cement, rocks and etc to keep them sharp. Ask other guys at your local track with banshees what works for them. Make sure your front end is alinged. Try different air pressures in the tires. Toomey T5 pipes are about the same as P.C. Except the toomeys can be found easier and for less $. There are tons of used pipes on HQ all the time. Pro Curcuits are good pipes too for a mostly stock engine. Check the race rules/classes first and see what class would suit you best. Check what mods they allow in that class for a banshee. It might just be pipes and airbox mods. Running stock pipes vs aftermarket is night and a day difference. So after safety gear, tires, studs...get some pipes, jets and maybe some clamp on k&n airfilters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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