moody0187 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Hey guys. Gettin ready to attempt a rebuild for my first time. Im wanting to go ahead and get the crank welded too. My question is...will I be better off removing the whole engine? or can i get the crank out with the engine still in the frame? Ive looked through the bottom end walkthrough. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast-Fibers Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 You will want to take the engine out of the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moody0187 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 alrighty. thank you. Is there a walkthrough on here? Ive got the factory service manual if not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fast-Fibers Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 My link This is for assembly but it is a great walk through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 if you take your time and think things through a little you will be able to do it.....with some help from either a clymers manual or from your factory service manual. MAKE SURE YOU WASH AND DEGREASE YOUR ENGINE REALLY GOOD BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE FRAME! (you'll thank yourself later for doing this). There is a half-moon piece behind the clutch pack that must be removed BEFORE you split the cases as it holds the two case halves together. Another thing i would highly suggest is to go out and purchase two tools. The first is a flywheel puller. It threads into your flywheel and then uses a bolt that is bulit in to press the flywheel off. DO NOT USE A JAW STYLE PULLER.....as it will mis-shape your flywheel and you will be screwed. the flywheel puller is at max $13. The other tool is a clutch removal tool. You will be using this to clamp down on the inner clutch hub to hold it from turning while you remove the large nut. it basically looks like a big ass set of vice grips with extended jaws and a 90* bend at the end so you can grap things sideways. This will keep you from breaking the inner hub. but just remember.....take your time and have fun.....working on these bikes can be just as fun and enjoyable as riding them. pm me if you need any help or have any questions about my post.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
springer Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 def take it out of the bike. if you have a solvent tank or parts cleaner, or even access to one, it will help tremendously in cleaning all the parts and peices of ur motor. everything needs to be cleeeeaaaan clean clean when you put it back together. if you have the downloaded version of the clymers from somewhere on here, i would highly reccommend just buying the actual book. much easier to see the pics and much much more clear. good luck!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buckwheat Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 What is the reason for welding the crank, and where is it welded? Wheat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tom582 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 if you take your time and think things through a little you will be able to do it.....with some help from either a clymers manual or from your factory service manual. MAKE SURE YOU WASH AND DEGREASE YOUR ENGINE REALLY GOOD BEFORE YOU REMOVE IT FROM THE FRAME! (you'll thank yourself later for doing this). There is a half-moon piece behind the clutch pack that must be removed BEFORE you split the cases as it holds the two case halves together. Another thing i would highly suggest is to go out and purchase two tools. The first is a flywheel puller. It threads into your flywheel and then uses a bolt that is bulit in to press the flywheel off. DO NOT USE A JAW STYLE PULLER.....as it will mis-shape your flywheel and you will be screwed. the flywheel puller is at max $13. The other tool is a clutch removal tool. You will be using this to clamp down on the inner clutch hub to hold it from turning while you remove the large nut. it basically looks like a big ass set of vice grips with extended jaws and a 90* bend at the end so you can grap things sideways. This will keep you from breaking the inner hub. but just remember.....take your time and have fun.....working on these bikes can be just as fun and enjoyable as riding them. pm me if you need any help or have any questions about my post.... great post. i just tore mine down and wish i would had this info..lol i did get flywheel puller and i bought an air impact for the clutch nut..and that half moon clip had me hemmed up for a min.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moody0187 Posted September 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 well that didnt take as long as i thought. Ive got the engine out. Pulled my head off and found the problem. the top of my one piston is melted. now theres some metal melted on the dome. Am i gonna need a new head? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFH87 Posted September 1, 2011 Report Share Posted September 1, 2011 Reason for welding the crank is so it can handle more POWWWWAHHH! that and to keep it true... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coryv4 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 What is the reason for welding the crank, and where is it welded? Wheat a welded crank is a pretty mucha must when adding hp somtime even stock motors seperate the crank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcalsv02 Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 well that didnt take as long as i thought. Ive got the engine out. Pulled my head off and found the problem. the top of my one piston is melted. now theres some metal melted on the dome. Am i gonna need a new head? if it is the stock head, have it checked for warpage. An after market head or a shaved stock head would be good options. An after market head allows you to switch out domes and mess with your compression. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camatv Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 your gonna need more than a head.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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