RippinBansh11 Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 Im thinkin about painting my stock cut plastics that have stress marks.. I've tried using the heat gun to remove the white stress marks from the blue plastic.. it works a litte bit but not much.. Probably gonna try like a candy blue paint.. i like the Yamaha Blue plastic so id like the paint a somewhat similar color. Do most guys use spray paint? Car paint? Sand the plastic with a high grit sandpaper first? Im open to any advice i could get for painting the plastic.. Thanks Banshee guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 i use ppg automotive paint just because i have free access to it. wash plastics using a grit type hand cleaner soap with scotch bright . i use a 3m grey scotch bright and ample amounts of soap. the grit soap not only cleans, but also promotes mechanical adhesion. 2nd step is to use a wax/grease remover mine being m103 which is just rubbing alcohol. then i use a spray adhesive. i use ppg "plastik" but you can get "bulldog plastic promoter" most auto stores carry it. ok from here you can go one of many ways..... i use ppg sealer, base, clear with flex, or i have heard of ppl using krylon fusion with good outcomes. either way remember PREP is 90% of the finish job. if you don't prep it well it will release, crack etc. if you have deep scratches you can use 600 and up grit with water. anything anymore aggressive will not cover with paint. also if you end up using krylon the sealer is not necessary. it just gives base a good surface to bond to and helps cover evenly. hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenyboy Posted August 28, 2011 Report Share Posted August 28, 2011 That's some good painting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FrankieSquid Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 Damn that is some good painting. Sorry if I missed it but what clear did you use again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted August 29, 2011 Report Share Posted August 29, 2011 Damn that is some good painting. Sorry if I missed it but what clear did you use again. i use different clears depending on how fast and the quality. omni260 quick clear, ppg3000 and 4000. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 if your fenders are not cut you should not try to paint it. the fenders will flex to much and crack the paint. flex additive won't do any good as it is just a long lasting solvent that makes paint flexible for a short time it eventually evaporate. flex is used for the painting of plastic bumpers off the car to give it some flex while putting on the bumper but eventually go hard and not flexible. i use 320 grit paper lean with a isopropal then ppg dpx801 plastic adhesion promoter then a thin coat of epoxy primer if you see any scratches or burs frum the plastic scuff with 600 to 800 then base with dbc and clear get the best clear you can afford. try not to anything on to thick as the thicker the film the more brittle it is. I would never use krylon any thing. just visit an automotive pait distributer thay all have what you need. brand is just preference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshee Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 we use House of Kolor paints on all our stuff. Not true on the full fenders cracking either, if you prep them right they wont crack, ive had this 450 and my raptor 700 done with full fenders and never had a problem. Raptor was even tipped over in hillshoot and didnt take any damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 we use House of Kolor paints on all our stuff. Not true on the full fenders cracking either, if you prep them right they wont crack, ive had this 450 and my raptor 700 done with full fenders and never had a problem. Raptor was even tipped over in hillshoot and didnt take any damage. 450 fenders are mor ridged than banshee. and prep has nothing to do with paint cracking! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FullThrottle_06' Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 i use ppg automotive paint just because i have free access to it. wash plastics using a grit type hand cleaner soap with scotch bright . i use a 3m grey scotch bright and ample amounts of soap. the grit soap not only cleans, but also promotes mechanical adhesion. 2nd step is to use a wax/grease remover mine being m103 which is just rubbing alcohol. then i use a spray adhesive. i use ppg "plastik" but you can get "bulldog plastic promoter" most auto stores carry it. ok from here you can go one of many ways..... i use ppg sealer, base, clear with flex, or i have heard of ppl using krylon fusion with good outcomes. either way remember PREP is 90% of the finish job. if you don't prep it well it will release, crack etc. if you have deep scratches you can use 600 and up grit with water. anything anymore aggressive will not cover with paint. also if you end up using krylon the sealer is not necessary. it just gives base a good surface to bond to and helps cover evenly. hope this helps. Sorry I didn't want to repost all of the pics, but I had more than one question about this post. Phelps, the "grit type hand cleaner soap" that you mention, are you talking about like Gojo or something not as gritty? Also is the rubbing alcohol that someone could purchase from walmart work as good as the m103 remover? I'm wanting to get this in steps, so you use a spray adhesive first before you paint anything? I have never heard of such a thing, but i'm not in automotive collision repair either, and have never painted plastics. Then you use sealer, base and then clear it? I would think a guy would paint, seal, then clear? What is the difference between sealer, and clear? Isn't that along the lines of the same thing? I apologize for the dumb questions, but the only questions that are dumb are the ones that you never ask so... I asked lol. I'm just curious on how to do this properly, I wouldn't mind to give this a shot on my stock plastics once I order my new ones. Oh, one more question, I also have the factory blue plastic. Will it matter if I want to dramatically change the color, like going from blue to black? OR Blue to red. Somthing like that? Any good input is welcome, I would like to see and learn more on this. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theshee Posted September 2, 2011 Report Share Posted September 2, 2011 450 fenders are mor ridged than banshee. and prep has nothing to do with paint cracking! paint is only as good as what its stuck to, you do a shit prep job the paint will last like it. Im fully confident i could paint a full set of banshee plastics and they would hold up fine. But I can tell you know more about paint then anybody so I will leave this thread to a pro like you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phelps Posted September 3, 2011 Report Share Posted September 3, 2011 paint is only as good as what its stuck to, you do a shit prep job the paint will last like it. Im fully confident i could paint a full set of banshee plastics and they would hold up fine. But I can tell you know more about paint then anybody so I will leave this thread to a pro like you i agree with this guy. oh and on the comment the other guy made about the flex agents getting brittle... lmao some ppl know what they are talking about and some repeat some of the stupidest shit they have heard.... i paint for a living and obviously "theshee" does as well. the property of paints and how/what they do over time/use is deeper than learning every law written. 1badassbanshee do me a favor and ask ppg or any major paint company how they spray paint variant cards for matching purposes and the paint never crack or falls off...... or color books.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 I work for a paint manufacture in the lab! most paint chips are inks! and I just bent a paint variant chip that is actual paint not ink and it cracked. yes prep does matter on how it stick and looks but has nothing to do with being brittle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 Sorry I didn't want to repost all of the pics, but I had more than one question about this post. Phelps, the "grit type hand cleaner soap" that you mention, are you talking about like Gojo or something not as gritty? Also is the rubbing alcohol that someone could purchase from walmart work as good as the m103 remover? I'm wanting to get this in steps, so you use a spray adhesive first before you paint anything? I have never heard of such a thing, but i'm not in automotive collision repair either, and have never painted plastics. Then you use sealer, base and then clear it? I would think a guy would paint, seal, then clear? What is the difference between sealer, and clear? Isn't that along the lines of the same thing? I apologize for the dumb questions, but the only questions that are dumb are the ones that you never ask so... I asked lol. I'm just curious on how to do this properly, I wouldn't mind to give this a shot on my stock plastics once I order my new ones. Oh, one more question, I also have the factory blue plastic. Will it matter if I want to dramatically change the color, like going from blue to black? OR Blue to red. Somthing like that? Any good input is welcome, I would like to see and learn more on this. Thanks the sand prep he is talking abot is a automatics product to gojo I think the product # is ppg dx103 but I haven't used that in a long time. you can just use some joy dish soap and a red scotchbright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
90Bansheedude Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 You must prep properly, or you wont have good adhesion or you will see sandscratches, etc. Full Throttle......The spray adhesive that he is talking about, is not what you are thinking it is. It is not like the spray glue, it is a chemical that helps promote adhesion, and is lots of times called "adhesion promoter" and is generally used in a real thin mist, (like if you sprayed a mist of paint thinner) not like you would to actually glue something. The sealer and clear are totally different. Sealer is the first coat (besides the adhesion promoter) and is like a primer. It is used to "seal" the surface for the paint. The flex agent in the paint is a good idea when painting this kind of stuff, but I will also second the fact that it may crack on full fenders. Its not the fact that they aren't prepped good, its the fact that if they bend farther than the paint can stretch, it will crack. The more build you have from thickness of coats and number of coats, the thicker the coating you have, and the more likely it will be to crack. The flex agent that is used on automotive bumpers and stuff, it prevents cracking under normal usage also, but if you are in a fender bender, and the plastic gets pushed in and moved out of its original shape, the paint will crack, just as it may under a similar circumstance on a quad. Under normal usage and not wrecking, no, you should not have any problems with cracking. If you tip over your quad alot, backwards, forwards, sideways, whatever, your plastics will bend alot, and instead of getting the white stretch marks on the plastic, you will get cracked paint. For a comparison example, I would say whatever you are doing, if it will put white stretch marks in the plastic, then it will probably crack the paint. (not scientifically proven, just my rough example as to what it would take to crack) This is kinda hard to explain, but Ill try. If it is a gradual bend over a larger area, (like grabbing both ends of a car bumper and pulling them in) it spreads the flexing out through the whole area. If for example on 4 wheeler plastics, the center section is pretty rigid, as it is bolted to the quad and resting against the frame, but the fender is loose and hanging out, when you push down on it, the area closest to the frame were it is allowed to bend is usually were the problems lie, as it absorbs the majority of the flexing. Just to clarify, I am not claiming to be a "super paint expert" this info is based off of my experience, others may have different experiences or opinions, all of which may have valid points. Brian =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
#1BADASSBANSHEE Posted September 6, 2011 Report Share Posted September 6, 2011 sorry trying to use my phone for that reply didnt work so well so here we go again the sand prep he is talking about is a ppg automotive product i think the # is dx103 but not sure i havent used it in a long time. you can just use a little joy dish soap and a red scotch bright. the isopropyl is the same thing you get at wallmart. and no not spray adhesive. adhesion promoter. the sealer is a primer. the color of the plastic does not matter it will be covered by new paint. the color will be called base coat it will dry to a flat finish. you then put clear to make it shine. these products will all be available at an auto body and paint supply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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