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Trans won't shift from 3rd to 2nd


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What's up fellas? I've been a lurker for years. I've had my Banshee since 95 and I'm lovin every minute of it.

 

I picked up my Banshee back in 95 for $1k.

 

Ripped the airbox, TORS and dual carbs off right in front of the guy I bought it from and threw that sh!t in the trash.

 

Stripped it down to the frame sand blasted it then rattle canned it white... big mistake, but oh well, there will be a new beginning soon.

 

I put all the mods on it in my signature and literally broke the engine in down at Pismo Beach.

 

I always thought the trans shifted overly notchy and just figured it was the nature of the beast.

 

I planned to straighten her out, but I live under the philosophy that if it ain't broke don't fix it.

 

So fast foward 16 years to Sand Mountain, NV where I was out riding in the dunes for about an hour.

 

I needed to shift down into 2nd and the shift lever just moved down but didn't click into 2nd, so I kept it in 3rd, worked the clutch and climbed to the top of a dune and parked it.

 

Shut her down and tried to negoiate 2nd gear by hand, no dice.

 

So basically it won't shift down to second from third.

 

I was able to ride back to camp in 3rd and 4th, and I didn't hear any crunching, so I thought that was good.

 

Rewind 10 years ago and I replaced the clutch with all new OEM parts.

 

I know for a fact I didn't adjust the push rod properly and just lined up the arrows on the clutch actuator to the motor by the perch adjustment. I know, I know...

 

I never took the basket off, so the shift shaft arm might not have the proper adjustment to the shift star pins.

 

Thanks to the Banshee HQ forums I now know a ton more about Banshees, and I'm more than capable to adjust everything and even split the cases if need be.

 

I'm fully prepared to buy all new clutch actuator parts and shift shaft parts including the F.A.S.T. modded shift shaft with the light spring, or should I use the OE Torsion Spring.

 

I plan on getting a Magnum Basket, new OE inner and outer pressure plates, F.A.S.T. HD Clutch Kit, Modded Shift Star, Shift Pro w/OE Spring, Billet Neutral Safety Switch and new Pancake Bearing for the pressure plate adjustment.

 

I will also pick up all new seals and hardware.

 

Do the cases need to be split in order to replace the shift shaft bushing on the leftside of the motor?

 

Sorry so long, but it's also kind of an Intro Thread too.

 

Thanks in advance everyone.

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I'm gonna clean her up and begin pulling it apart tonight.

 

I have a huge order from F.A.S.T. coming in on Thursday.

 

Sucks man, I spent a shit ton of money on maintenance parts and no go fast parts except for an adjustable timing plate.

 

My Trinity 2 into 1 carb is a 34mm Keihin jetted for sea level.

 

Nick at F.A.S.T. suggested moving my needle clip up on notch to help lean it out some.

 

What do you think?

 

Sand Mountain, NV is at 4000ft.

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You think its internal?

 

I've read a lot of your threads and I'm fully prepared to split the cases.

 

Just picked up a Climers manual at my local bike shop.

 

Chic behind the parts counter has been riding a Banshee since she was 12.

 

She has a complete bottom-end in a box as a spare.

 

She said if I needed anything to hit her up... Looking forward to that actually.

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You might be able to make it with just the shift shaft. Which wouldn't require a tear down. The value of what i post is what you pay for it. I don't always do things correctly and this was a long time ago before knowledge was easily shared. If you are in a hurry and trying to do this in a couple hours mind the circle clips and keep the flat side out. Don't ask :shootself: but same goes for replacing lock tabs.

If you are going to buy a manual i'd get the factory or a pdf of it.

Be sure to get to the parts girls bottom end though ,sounds like a score. Good luck

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Welp, finally got a chance to pull it apart.

 

Here's what I found.

 

Two inner most OE friction plates broken. And all those little bits. I hope none of that shit found its way into the transmission...

 

brokenclutchplates.jpg

 

Eccentric Screw was loose and wobbly. The shift mechanism was exactly the way you see it when I pulled the clutch basket off.

 

ShiftMechanism.jpg

 

Clutch Basket, Inner Hub and Pressure Plate all look great.

 

Question, should I be able to rotate the shift star by hand and select gears?

 

Tonight I'm installing the following:

Shift Pro

new Eccentric Stud, Lock Nut and Lock Washer

F.A.S.T. modded shift shaft w/new OE torsion spring and shaft seal

Kick Starter Idler Pulley Bushing and C-Clip. It is rather wobbly at present and the new bushing should make it puss...

Kick starter seal

new Clutch Basket Lock Washer

F.A.S.T. HD Clutch Kit

new clutch push rod, ball and Cascade Pancake Bearing

new Clutch Lever and Perch with needle bearing in pivot

Clutch Cable

new OE Clutch Cover Gasket

new OE Water Pipe O-Ring

Magnetic Drain Plug

Honda Gear Saver Trans Oil

50/50 Prestone Coolant

F.A.S.T. Clutch Cover and Stator Cover Allen Head Screw Kit

 

I'm jetted for sea level, but I'm going up to 4000'.

I was told go up one needle clip and adjust air screw, what do you think?

 

Also, did I forget anything with my repair list?

 

Thanks in advance!

Edited by Strm Trpr
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