figuare9 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) I've seen this here, but I wanted to create a topic because from with all the ways I've heard to break-in a two stroke, I think i MIGHT have an idea. So, if I was to get my motor back, when I'm breaking it in, I would do this. 1: start the motor, let it idle for a bit, give the throttle a few burps every now and then, feel the head until it got warm and shut it off. 2: wait about an hour or so, and repeat the above step, but let it get a little hotter. 3: wait until it's cool again, and this time take it for a ride and get a "little" mean on the throttle. ride for about 10-15 minutes after it's been warmed up. 4: it's done? I've done break ins like this before on smaller motors and they've all seemed to hold up, but besides chain saws and other small engines, what's the best approach for a shee? I've owned nothing but 4 strokes until I got a good deal on my banshee, but I want the motor rebuilt for the summer. I'd really like everyone's opinion here. If it helps, i'm getting a 4 mill stroker. Basically all new internals. FMF Gold Series SST exhaust Closed air filter 1600 ft Elevation 91 octane 32:1 Amsoil synthetic dominator Not sure what head I'll have after the 4 mill Edited April 19, 2011 by figuare9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I let it warm up for about 2 to 3 min blipping the throttle every few seconds. Then road it never keeping the throttle at one spot for longer than a second or two. Did this for about 1/2 to a full tank mixed at 32:1. Then re torqued all the bolts on the motor. Did a plug chop after to start fine tuning the jetting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 (edited) I let it warm up for about 2 to 3 min blipping the throttle every few seconds. Then road it never keeping the throttle at one spot for longer than a second or two. Did this for about 1/2 to a full tank mixed at 32:1. Then re torqued all the bolts on the motor. Did a plug chop after to start fine tuning the jetting. Thanks for the input Edited April 19, 2011 by figuare9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judge1 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Read this its a little long but very interesting! Run it hard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 Read this its a little long but very interesting! Run it hard Gave it a good read, but I'm still kind of unsure of his methods. I don't know. It's hard to say. However, what do you guys think of running the regular "Yamalube" for it in the break - in period, and switching over to Amsoil Synthetic Dominator afterwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CFH87 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 It kinda makes sense to load the rings at a higher rpm. Not sure how i'm going to break mine in when its done I just want it to run hard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 i warmed mine up and rode it around the yard once and then checked to make sure nothing was loose and then went and beat on it. runs pretty good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 20, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 i warmed mine up and rode it around the yard once and then checked to make sure nothing was loose and then went and beat on it. runs pretty good. lol see this is kind of exactly why I made the thread.. EVERYONE seems to do it a little bit differently. Some people say to never mix oils, some say to run them with synthetic but never to break it in with it. Which contradicts mixing oils.. Others say to easy break them in, others say to beat it. . I'm against running it hard on a rebuild.. Especially in my case.. I'm getting basically a new "everything" so it's not just the rings I need to worry about. Everybody seems to do it a little different, but for the most part, on a completely new motor, what would a good reliable way to break it in? I need this thing to last, not run hard and quit. I'm still looking up things all over the net.. Can't find a consistancy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coupelx Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 lol see this is kind of exactly why I made the thread.. EVERYONE seems to do it a little bit differently. Some people say to never mix oils, some say to run them with synthetic but never to break it in with it. Which contradicts mixing oils.. Others say to easy break them in, others say to beat it. . I'm against running it hard on a rebuild.. Especially in my case.. I'm getting basically a new "everything" so it's not just the rings I need to worry about. Everybody seems to do it a little different, but for the most part, on a completely new motor, what would a good reliable way to break it in? I need this thing to last, not run hard and quit. I'm still looking up things all over the net.. Can't find a consistancy my engine was brand new this time around. i had about 10min on it before it saw an ass whipping. break it in on the oil you will be using which should be a good quality oil. I am very picky about my assembly and details so its not like i just start it and go beat it ragged. there is no constant. every one does it different. I hot lapped the shit out of it at the drags when i was at little sahara last weekend and it never missed a beat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbooker82 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 (edited) Fire it up cold and hold the throttle wide open in Neutral. It really seats the rings well. Edited April 20, 2011 by jbooker82 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 May be thread number 1001 on this but it's still a good read. I'm gonna be breaking mine in as soon as the weather clears so this came just in time for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trick2stroke Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I've seen this discussed over the years and many very reliable people have stated it is not a good idea to use a high quality synthetic during break in as it can cause the rings to not properly seat. I would use a good castor oil for the first tank. Warm it up, let it cool, and check the torque to make sure nothing expanded or contracted and loosened. I took it somewhat easy the first 5-10 minutes and checked the plugs to be sure I wasn't leaning out. After that I couldn't control myself and rode it just as I would any other time, minus long WOT stints. Then after the first tank or two switch back to the Dominator synth and check the plugs again and do any other fine tuning that may or may not be necessary. This method has always worked great for me, power wise and over time. My top ends have always lasted for years. There's no exact science or proven end all method that I have seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 On my drag bikes I run 2 heat cycles (on gas) with no water in the radiator. THen I run another with water the next day or so just to make sure there are no coolant leaks. I don't run all the heat cycles the same day because I like the motor to be stone cold between cycles, and the neighbors probably get tired of hearing it. AFter that I consider it good to go at the track. May be different for a duner, though. Nothing wrong with riding it around to break in under load, I just can't do that with mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew3160 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 I have always been told and the builder of my 4 mill told me to not keep it at the same rpm for longer than a few seconds or so. Make sure to vary the rpm while warming up at idle and while riding. It is okay to get on it on break in. I haven't had a problem yet, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figuare9 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 I appreciate all of the input. I think I'm going to give it a shot with the way I originally planned to, with NON-synthetic oil, and switch it back to dominator shortly after. I'll probably buy one quart of yamalube and switch over to the synthetic dominator after the yamalube is gone. I'll probably get a little mean on it after about 10 minutes. Think I at least have an idea now. I don't suppose anyone can link me to a good "checking if you're running lean" thread? Also, a good read on plug chopping would be nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.