figuare9

Or he clearly doesn't know what he's buying.. Not everybody is as intelligent as this stuff as you may be..... However, to the "OP" try to find a set. Look around.. Try to either get a set used on ebay that are an OEM replacement or see if you have any atv salvage yards. Or even better yet, ask in the "for sale" or wanted section of the forums here for a good set of used front shocks. That's what I would do. Ask in the for sale/wanted area, check ur local salvage yards, or try to find used OEM. Don't get an aftermarket set for 40 bucks..

NICE! what did the setup cost? I'm only curious because I'm still on the SOHC. Honda's been doing it for years, but I can't seem to buy the DOHC upgrade anywhere!! Did the switch to a triple at some point?

Im dead serious... And thanks for the replies.. Can anyone show me how to mount the two extra TORS please? I'm having trouble lining them up

So I just raced my buddies blaster. It smoked me. I'm thinking about adding some bolt ons for my banshee. Are hot cams worth it? Am I able to to go from SOHC to a dual? I was told that adding twice the cams will give me twice the horsepower. Here's what I'm thinking. . . . Dual overhead Cam upgrade (from single) Adjustable Powerband ---> http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=30 Twin Muffler bearings ---> http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10 Reed elimination kit (Increase my throttle response) Adding another TORS Port blocking Please let me know if I missed anything. I really want to beat this thing.

well I kind of rolled the banshee. And I'm looking to replace the lights entirely. but I don't want to spend an arm and a leg either. lol the 4 mill plus all the bolt ons robbed my wally...

I'll definitely look into that light bar. Trying to see what other options I have as well

I really want to upgrade my lights. With a set of stocks it seems like you're over driving your lights in second gear. It's terrible. I don't want to spend 300 dollars for a set if I don't have to. What are some of you guys running for really bright lights? I want something stupidly almost illegally bright. I don't ride at night a lot, but when I do, it'd sure be nice to see more then I can now. Also.. I can convert my stator to DC, but haven't really thought about running a battery. If it's a must, then maybe we can discuss that as well. I'd like to know what kind of options I have, and price ranges I'm looking at. Thanks.

My bike with the same pipes is running 300 main 32.5 pilot, middle clip at 1500 ft. It ran at that jetting and those pipes for years. It's a little higher then what's reccommended but it's what worked for me.

My advice.. DON'T pop ur case loose at all unless you plan to redo the entire thing. If you want to just pop up a side/corner to get the seal out, I'd be willing to bet that you'll have an air leak when you reassemble. Goodbye pistons I guess. If you really want to go ahead and do it... then there's 8 nuts on the bottom, and another 8 bolts on the top. (Underneatth where the carbs should be) Be sure to only back them off a little at a time, staggered. To split, hit the case with a rubber malet, (I used a block of wood) and try to seperate with ur hands. I stood my foot in the front sprocket area, and carefully pulled up to split mine. Worked well, not much banging, and NO wedging. Goodluck btw.. Let me know how it runs after u put it together. Or how the pressure test held up. I really advise not doing this. If you pull the cases apart even a mm, you just wrecked the entire seal for the whole bottom end. Defeats the point to replace a bad seal to trade it for an air leak IMO. Anyways, my two cents. Either way, good luck to you!

I'll sum this up short and sweet. 1: Banshee needed a new top end. Did research on internet. Found Bansheehq.com 2: was jealous of other peoples mods and stroked shee's 3: Convinced that it was worth porting/stroking, etc 4: Rebuilt my motor and went balls deep into my wallet for more mods 5: Test drove the shee for the first time.. The SECOND that fucking thing hit the powerband I was like...... Anyways, just wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me get through my mods/jetting troubleshooting.. Everything. I really appreciate the help I've had here.

IMO... Spend an extra 150 bucks.. Pull the cylinders off, ship them to a sponsor and have them port your cylinders. (it'll make ur banshee go faster) and have the sponsor bore and hone them. You need to get the cylinders bored and honed anyways for the new topend. For what you'll pay a shop to do it, it's almost worth it to send it to a site sponsor. http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Yamaha_Banshee.html http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp That's just two.. MANY other sponsors in bansheehq can do it as well. Trust me.. It'll be worth EVERY penny to get it ported for your own riding style. Just rebuilt my new motor.. Leaning over the damn front bumper in 5th gear and the damn front end still hates touching the ground.

That's stupidly low on compression.. My god... It still runs!!!? lol Have u been fouling plugs? To answer your question.. YES! it's time for a new topend. You need to put a new top end in every 40ish hours. Or by the general rule of thumb "Every set of tires". And by that I don't meant a new bore/hone, pistons, just throw some rings in it if the cylinders/pistions look good. What I would do, is send the cylinders to a sponsor. FAST/HJR, etc. Ask them to bore/hone and send you back the necessary pistions/rings. OR... Send the cylinders out to a sponsor. Tell them you want a port job. . . They'll really make ur banshee scream and get you an entire new topend for only about 300 bucks.

Never rode it, don't even have footpegs installed yet. My hands are trembling.. I've got 3 banshees in the garage, and I'm absolutely terrified of this thing and I haven't even driven it.. It revs out faster then I can blink.. It feels like it has twice the power the other shees do.. WTF did I just get myself into...

Okay.. So to my own disbelief. . . . . . . . . . I went and double checked the dumbass parking brake.. Turns out you were right ban.. Everybody makes mistakes I guess. . . lol Thanks

I've disconnected that wire all together. That's the parking brake your taking about right? I tried to plug it in, and tried it with it unplugged ... I just double checked my choke tube, slides are in the right carbs, double checked my pickup gap in my new timing plate, tried pulling the air filter off, tried leaning it out.. brought my air screw to 2.5 turns out.. still nothing. Put new plugs in it.. nothing again.. still rev limited..

Yamahabond 4, new seals, bearing, gaskets. Whole works from HJR. The leakdown test held, so I can't imagine I have an airleak.

Josh, lol Thanks for the heads up, but I made sure the "Windows" were facing the intake side

Okay.. So I just got my motor together.. I'm having a problem.. It idles, and revs up about 100-300 rpm.. Now... I tried the stupid parking brake.. It's not that. I also have my tors removed. So it can't be that. My jetting is here... BEFORE PORTING & MODS (Only has exhaust) -300 Main Jet -32.5 Pilot -Aftermarket Needle jet (slightly longer in size) -2 turns exactly out [Ran almost perfect. Slightly Rich] After Upgrade | 4 mill crank | Porting to SST exhaust | Chariot Cool Head | +4 Timing | Vforce 3 Reeds | -310 Main Jet -32.5 Pilot -Stock Needle (Middle Clip) -2 turns out..Still. Now it won't rev up... AT ALL.. It just sits there and "Booawwww".. It idles fine, started fast, but just won't rev.. wtf.. lol Here's what I'm thinking.. Could the gap in my new timing plate cause this? Or my needle jets? Besides the new crank, coolhead, reeds, timing plate and jet needles, I haven't done anything else..

See... That's why I made this thread. My shee ran wild.. It was litereally neck and neck with a 450 with just the exhaust. But it had some weird jetting. I know most people are saying 27.5 is about average, but I was just a little bit rich before with the setup that I had. I kinda liked it. Its always safer to be a little rich, and I never fouled one plug out in over a year. I'll run this in a way that's easier to read. BEFORE PORTING & MODS (Only has exhaust) -300 Main Jet -32.5 Pilot -Aftermarket Needle jet (slightly longer in size) -2 turns exactly out [Ran almost perfect. Slightly Rich] After Upgrade | 4 mill crank | Porting to SST exhaust | Chariot Cool Head | +4 Timing | Vforce 3 Reeds | -310 Main Jet -32.5 Pilot -Stock Needle (Middle Clip) -2 turns out..Still. Have yet to start the motor. Will tomorrow when my reeds come in. Hoping I can get a really good idea of where to start the jetting while it's still apart. So far, from what I've gotten out of this thread so far is that I'm going to want to start with my 320's. And adjust from there. I'd like to hear a few more opinions about the pilot though. If my shee ran great with a 32.5 why are people running 27.5? And if it ran good before should I change it for the new mods?

When you say "top" and "Bottom" Do you mean the blunt end by top? and the pointed end of the needle as "bottom"? I know, dumb question but I gotta make sure How much richer on the main? I only have 300, 310, and 320's. My banshee ran like a beast before I did the 4mill. It was absolutely 100% stock before and the guy that had it before me installed the full fmf Gold Series SST pipes. He jetted it to the 300's, 32.5 It ran really well before. Seemed a little on the rich side, but it pulled your arms off and never fouled a plug so I never messed with it. Since then, I'll have the 4 mill, +4 timing, ported for the pipes and Vforce 3 reeds. So.. I went from a decently tuned setup and changed it from whatever needles were in it before to stock (the needles I replaced were a little longer), and jumped the 300's to 310s. However, I will definitely try what you said, and run the clip one closer to the "Pointed" side of the jet needle, as right now I have it clipped in the middle. Default position

Stock, I mentioned it in my first post. Learn to read? kiddin. I duno, I won't be starting it until tomorrow, but I wanted to get a good idea where to start while I have the carbs off the bike.

You better be damn well sure that crank isn't bad. Check the gaps, slack, etc. Per clymer manual. Or have it looked at. 50 dollar crank sounds like bullshit to me. Also, yes. The safest way to put that motor together is by doing a leakdown test. Make damn well sure to use a good sealant, Yamabond 4 or the red hightemp silicone works best. Be sure to replace all seals.

Alright, I haven't started this thing yet, because I'm waiting on my reeds to get here. but I have the carbs in front of me here and I'm stumped.. I just installed a carb rebuild kit, and went back to a stock needle. the ones that I replaced were just a little bit longer. They didn't say a size on them, but I know they were different. So... From here I ask... I'm running stock jet needle, 310 mains, 32.5 Pilot, and a 345? needle jet. Think this would be a good starting point?

14/41 is stock gearing... I'm confused.

When I got my FMF SST's they sent me a 300 main. You're definitely too low. I would try going up to a 27.5 pilot, and a 270-300 main. Search on here how to do a plug chop to dial it in from there, but that might be a better start for you. Hard to give you an exact idea, as I'm 1500ft, with a closed airbox with way different mods. I'm actually going to post another topic about getting my shee jetted right as well. Good luck to you!