sangheraent Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Well everyone I am currently a dune/mx quad rider. I would like to in the future get into a little bit of drag racing nothing super serious but Id like to build a stock chassis purpose built drag bike. However I see so many different setups and it is difficult to get information as to what the classes are and what restrictions there are to each class. also where can someone do this drag racing. I am in Canada an hour and a half north of seattle. I dont want to be driving 2 days to ride 300ft a few times so something like northern California Idaho Utah Oregon would be the best bet. id like to build a stock chassis bike with a cub motor in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazycanuck Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 I went with a Fast 421 CUB, 1-5 duneable, straight cuts, billet basket, Fast clutch, DD lock up, NOSS head 20cc domes. 39mm pwk's on 110, +8 round tube swinger and +2+1 arms from stellar Im happy with my setup and cant wait for my fuel to show up!!!!!!!!!!! ...... I am however wishing I would of went with a 10mm Cub OR 4mm DM. oh well, next time. I wouldnt mind trying a Twister set up someday too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Lighten the stock chassis and strut it. Ditch the stock handlebar and steering stem and build/buy a chromoly drag stem. Buy/build a 4 mil or 10 mil Cub with lockup and override with 39 mm PWKs or 41 mm Packard Lectrons on alky. No sense in messing with gas for a "purpose built drag bike." Bolt up some drag a-arms (-2 width, +2 forward, etc) and some spindle mount wheels with smooth buff tires. Go with a +8 chromoly roundhouse swingarm and run a wheelie bar at least the wheelbase of the chassis. Get a jj&a drag axle and run 14 paddle staggered extremes (I prefer ~72 roll out for a stock chassis, but have had success with 75 roll out as well). If you can't find the staggereds, some 22x11x8, 14 paddle extremes on 8x9 wheels work pretty good, too. 15/43 or 15/44 gearing, depending on rider weight. That will get you started. That setup can run 4.0s all day long with a 160 lb rider, and low 4.1s almost irregardless of tuning (and some 4.1s all day long (and a few 4.0s) with a 190 lb rider.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sangheraent Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 thanks for the information guys. Im not going to mod my banshee, Its a 4mill stroker that I built for general riding at the dunes I don't want to drag it I like a smooth buttery ride with midrange power. my plan is to buy a run down stock banshee strip it and build a drag machine. I just want to know who you guys race and are there classes? because if i build a 10mill cub do I have to race against a guy with an 18mill dm? are there cc limits? Id like to do some competitive stuff but I don't want to go all the way into rigid bikes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-Madd Posted April 19, 2011 Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 These aren't full ridgid bikes, just stock chassis with struts. You can still put shocks back on them, but don't know why you would for a track bike. As far as classes, you'll need to contact the track that you plan on running at and build closest to the upper cc limit for a particular class. Some tracks only bracket race, so that won't matter at all - a golf cart could run a top fuel dragster. SOme typical CC bases heads up classes are0-400cc, 0-475cc, 0-550cc, 0-650cc, 0-825cc, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 my plan is to buy a run down stock banshee strip it and build a drag machine. I just want to know who you guys race and are there classes? because if i build a 10mill cub do I have to race against a guy with an 18mill dm? are there cc limits? Id like to do some competitive stuff but I don't want to go all the way into rigid bikes. If your starting from scratch I'd lean towards a 4dm....10mm cubs will run good but the dm will out perform it IMO as it should being it's almost 100cc's bigger. As far as setup if you don't want to cut extensively on the frame I'd get metal tech a-arms that are stock width & +3.5". Get a jj&a hillshooter axle & carrier and then run a +10-12 swingarm...Most will say thats to long but I ran a +10 with a 7mm cub and sometimes it would hammer the bar so I personally would lean towards a +12. If you want to start cutting then your imagination an obviously safety is the limit. This is +7.5" in the front & +16 in the rear...definately an extreme version of a stock frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zachass9 Posted April 20, 2011 Report Share Posted April 20, 2011 When it comes to stock frame mods, the possibilites are endless!! Tim @ Stellar does all my chassis stuff, here is a pic of his new hybrid design. Its a really light weight, single a-arm set up. www.stellarmachineandperformance.com 520-481-6946 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 24, 2011 Report Share Posted April 24, 2011 Just know that no matter what class you run you will be racing against majority of rigid long bikes.I run a 0-400 class and im the only stock frame stock cylinder bike there.I normally run asphault so i just go to get times but these dirt drag guys are intense Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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