Thoughtshewas18 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=16Rcmlm19XU At about 33 seconds you can see what I mean... maybe its something simple but... The last few weeks ive been trying to fix this problem I have after I hit the throttle and let off the motor revs like im still holding it down. I took my top end apart and carbs and cleaned cleaned cleaned. The top end looks great I had it rebuild last year so I didnt think that was it. I tried to make sure the carbs are sync'd... they lilft ALMOST at the same time its off by a hair, very slight delay. Other than that im pretty sure I have it all hooked up right, ive taking this thing apart numerous times. When I drive the bike it will get up and go like it used to, just idles and runs funky when I let off throttle. I also chanced my spark plugs and the old ones were very black (running rich?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 Are the slides in the carbs returning all the way down? Maybe it has something to do with the TORS. They cause all kinds of problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quikshee Posted April 16, 2011 Report Share Posted April 16, 2011 It sounds like you have an air leak or your jetting is very lean. Have you checked the intake boots for cracks? A leak down test will tell you if you have an air leak somewhere. What are your mods, elevation, and jetting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Yeah the intake looks good still. I made sure everything is tight and or torqed. I had a .030 bore with new rods/pistons, nossman head I forget the top sizes. Maybe its the slides, they are down as far as I needed them to keep a good idle. MAybe ill take my filters off and make sure they are sliding all the way down after throttle. My elevation is just over 1000 (phoenix az) and I think my main is 320? I think I had the shop leave my dune setup it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Check to make sure your slides aren't turning in their bores. Personally I'd spend a little money and get those goofy TORS boxes off of there. It would be a ton easier to work on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Also have you done a leakdown test to make sure you don't have any leaks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Also have you done a leakdown test to make sure you don't have any leaks? Thanks for the suggestions! I havent touched my bike for a year and I really want it to be better. I will check the slides to make sure, I havent done the leak test, what do I need for that? It really sounds funky when I hit the throttle and let go so its very possible.. How much does it usually run for tors removal? I hate them! Maybe ill just straight up replace my carbs after a few months of saving Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted April 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 (edited) http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/01-0390 This a decent product? EDIT: http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Control&webTypeId=40&webCatId=12&vehicleType=&pageLinkUri=&prodFamilyId=1467 looks better Edited April 17, 2011 by Thoughtshewas18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 The TORS elimination kit should run you about $50 if you buy the kit, prob much less if you shop around and get the individual parts. When I suggested a leakdown test I was going off of the other post. If indeed you did have an air leak it seems to me that it would idle high all of the time, not just when you hit the throttle, but that's just my opinion. I think there is a thread at the top of this section about making your own leakdown tester and it also tells how to do the test itself. There are also members on here that will sell you one for a good price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/01-0390 This a decent product? That's the one I ordered from Toomey when I got my jet kit. Like I said, if you shop around a bit I think you can find it much cheaper, i.e. eBay... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Actually, that link is only the caps, adjusters, and cable. If you look down below it shows another listing for a drill bit, tap, and 2 screws with nuts for an extra $24.99. I'd hit eBay man, that's expensive for the whole kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Either the throttle cable or the Mickey Mouse double linkage Throttle Override Retarded Shit is hanging up. Elim kit will solve that problem plus get rid of the malfunctioning "I lost my fucking mind " tors brain box. I did my son's because it needed a throttle cable any ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigblockbanshee Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Either the throttle cable or the Mickey Mouse double linkage Throttle Override Retarded Shit is hanging up. Elim kit will solve that problem plus get rid of the malfunctioning "I lost my fucking mind " tors brain box. I did my son's because it needed a throttle cable any ways. Don't know why I didn't think of that, probably because it was so obvious lol. Sticking throttle cable makes much more sense to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 It def sounds lean,Is that coolant dumping?Def pressure test it,or close those air screw to a 1/2 turn out or all the way.it doesnt sound like the cyl are hitting rite.It pays to get a sync tool i know they look rite but your looking at cable play adjustment but not vacuum being pulled through Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtshewas18 Posted April 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2011 Don't know why I didn't think of that, probably because it was so obvious lol. Sticking throttle cable makes much more sense to me. Actually I loosened my throttle cable because when i would turn the handle bars all the way to the right it would rev a little bit. Maybe it is the throttle cable... Either way im ditching the TORS system.. for only 50 bucks im ok with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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