hitman44 Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 im looking into getting a 99 banshee to add to my collection of toys. I was just woundering if i could get some ideas of some problems that have either been found or to look for when i go look at this wheeler. i got pics of it today and it looks mint but we all know looks can be just that....so if i can get some info on any problems with your guys 99's or some pointers to at least look for aside from some of the more typical things you should look for when buying a used wheeler it would help out a great deal......thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowbuckracing Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 It's always nice when they start first or second kick.if it looks good ,sounds good and and rips with no hesitation then its probably good.Is this your first banshee? If you have a compression tester take it with you and check both cylinders,ask what ratio he mixes oil,how often did he do oil change,new top end or been a while.any oil leaks,water leaks,clutch slip when you take off.good luck and throw up some pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glamis321 Posted April 13, 2011 Report Share Posted April 13, 2011 It's always nice when they start first or second kick.if it looks good ,sounds good and and rips with no hesitation then its probably good.Is this your first banshee? If you have a compression tester take it with you and check both cylinders,ask what ratio he mixes oil,how often did he do oil change,new top end or been a while.any oil leaks,water leaks,clutch slip when you take off.good luck and throw up some pics. check and see if the engines warm when you get there..I've had people get them hot so they start easier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted April 14, 2011 Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 Ask about the crank, welded is what you want. My 1st one had about 3/16 play in the crank and the tech ( yakkey racing heard it when it revved) so I got lucky it didn't come apart. so 3/16 play means that the conneting rods could wiggle back and forth 3/16 of an inch(appartly that is alot). to check this you have to take off the carbs and reeds to look in side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman44 Posted April 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2011 i do have a comp tester and will for sure be bringing it. it is my first banshee as an owner but not as a rider. i have a buddy that had one and i loved it the first time i threw a leg over it and now want one for my own. ill def make sure to ask the usual questions as far as oil mixture and change times. any other issues i should look for not only before buing but some i might run into down the road later on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dcalsv02 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 i do have a comp tester and will for sure be bringing it. it is my first banshee as an owner but not as a rider. i have a buddy that had one and i loved it the first time i threw a leg over it and now want one for my own. ill def make sure to ask the usual questions as far as oil mixture and change times. any other issues i should look for not only before buing but some i might run into down the road later on? Banshees were basically unchanged through out their production life, so they never had too many new issues like other more requently improved/redesigned models. When its running take note of the exhaust. Make sure both silencers are smoking equally. Check for a case saver or if it has the case mod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sleeper06 Posted April 15, 2011 Report Share Posted April 15, 2011 Ask about the crank, welded is what you want. My 1st one had about 3/16 play in the crank and the tech ( yakkey racing heard it when it revved) so I got lucky it didn't come apart. so 3/16 play means that the conneting rods could wiggle back and forth 3/16 of an inch(appartly that is alot). to check this you have to take off the carbs and reeds to look in side. whoever told you they measureed crank play through the carbs is lying or has some seroius tooling that i dont have yet and need Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomas h. Posted April 17, 2011 Report Share Posted April 17, 2011 Ask about the crank, welded is what you want. My 1st one had about 3/16 play in the crank and the tech ( yakkey racing heard it when it revved) so I got lucky it didn't come apart. so 3/16 play means that the conneting rods could wiggle back and forth 3/16 of an inch(appartly that is alot). to check this you have to take off the carbs and reeds to look in side. oops i ment my 1st one had play between the crank and the connecting rods. if my crank was welded it would not have the 3/16 play Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman44 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 i just got back from looking at it. its MINT and in great shape. it started right up first kick COLD....its bone stock now and my new question now is.... i have about $600-$650 left over. SO.........what should buy first for mods? im looking into trying some flat track this year but will be doing mostly trail riding and a little jumping? so what you guys think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BUILDER Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 If it is totally stock the first place to start is buy a good set of pipes for it and put some filters and and adjustable timing plate on it and you will pick up some good hp and it will run awesome. Enjoy your banshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jereme6655 Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 well congrats on your new banshee. And welcome to the club. The best thing to do with that $600? Pipes, filters, timing plate (or you can mod the current one and have a free mod) and possibly a TORS eliminator kit. Dont forget that whenever you do anything to make the motor breathe (intake or exhaust) better you're going to have to rejet the carbs or you will burn down the motor. And there are different pipes for different applications....if you're gonna run flat track mostly i'd suggest a higher reving pipe like a shearer or cpi's. If your going to be doing trail riding i'd suggest a mid pipe like a FMF fattie or Toomey T-5's. And jumping your banshee isn't NOT a good idea until you get more of a suspenison underneath it.......the stock suspensions suck ass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hitman44 Posted April 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 i was looking into either the toomys...fmf..or the dmc 916....i just love that sound of that dmc....sounds really nasty. i was looking into the jumping of the banshee and i just dont have the funds for full suspension yet so i think im just going to go a lowering kit and or wheel spacers for flat track racing right now. then upgrade to a full +2 later this year or tax return time next year.....unless anyone has a system they want to get rid of and are looking for some brand new snap on tools....(never used or opened) lol.....ive allready ordered a jet kit and k&n filters.....lmk what you guys think is best about your exhaust.....will help in picking one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 21, 2011 Report Share Posted April 21, 2011 oops i ment my 1st one had play between the crank and the connecting rods. if my crank was welded it would not have the 3/16 play It would if it was bad. Just welding a crank does not get rid of any play in it. Welding it is a preventative measure so you don't have trouble down the road. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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