SlowMoe Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 One thing I advise you NOT to do is grind down the bar at the tip of the cage (horizontal one in the first pic). You can narrow it, but basically don't cut so much where you touch the tip of it and reduce the thickness as measured from the inside the cage to the tip. What happens when you do this is create a steeper angle for the fuel to come across and this hampers high speed flow. You can still cut a good bit from the top and bottom (being VERY careful not to touch the sealing surface). I actually scrapped this cage and cut a new one for that reason alone. Anyways. Main thing is to leave a 1mm surface for the reed to seal against. Before you cut place a petal on there and see just how much you can cut. I am running boysen pro series reeds with the rev plates. If you are using regular reeds or boysens that still utilize the stock reed stoppers you shouldn't have to open it up quite this much. Quote
CGR fmxer Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 can anybody tell me what kind of reed cage this is? Quote
mopar1rules Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 i hate to break it to you slowmoe and no offense, but that cage looks like crap. are you sure ray charles wasn't the one operating the grinder? or did stevie wonder tell you where to cut? Quote
Nieskes Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 for the guy who does jumps it looks like a boyesen rad valve to me. Quote
jerzy609 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 how much gains can you get by doing this??? Quote
chevybanshee91 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 fmxer i was gona say they look like pyramid reeds .. and the guy who cut stock cages... that probably isnt real smart since they'll prob. break apart and go into ur cylinders. props for doing it tho! Quote
dirtydownunder Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 is that a crack in the first pic ? i think the centre piece is too thin.. id buy new cages...... i dont think we need to quote every pic either. Quote
volcrano Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 wow.that looks horrible,and way too thin.you should have roughly 4mm centers where the reeds lay,and about 6.5mm from center of mounting screws,which u went ape shit on and behind them.where did u get your specs or information on this.i agree with ddu,time for another set. Quote
Coupelx Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 While we are at it lets have a lesson on using a forum. The reply button found in the post box next to the "multi-quote" button is the actually the "quote" button and is for quoting a specific reply in a thread or a specific part or ONE picture in the original post, it is not for quoting the entire original post, especially when it contains multiple pictures. It its beyond annoying when reading a thread to have to scroll through the same pics 3 or 4 or 5 times. Click the reply button at the bottom of the page. Thanks and have a great day. My 2c on this topic is those cages are fucked. there is a specific way to port cages. Quote
06specialedition Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 Damn those are hacked up pretty good. By far the best ported cages I've ever seen is Brandon @ Wildcard Racing's cages...flawless work right there!.......I run VF3's, but if I wanted ported stock ones I'd send mine to him. Quote
volcrano Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 While we are at it lets have a lesson on using a forum. The reply button found in the post box next to the "multi-quote" button is the actually the "quote" button and is for quoting a specific reply in a thread or a specific part or ONE picture in the original post, it is not for quoting the entire original post, especially when it contains multiple pictures. It its beyond annoying when reading a thread to have to scroll through the same pics 3 or 4 or 5 times. Click the reply button at the bottom of the page. Thanks and have a great day. My 2c on this topic is those cages are fucked. there is a specific way to port cages. thanks dick.damn,i did it again.one of these days ill get it. Quote
87sheerips Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 Who knows you could see gains from it... Run em and see what happens and shut some people up??? They do look a lil thin tho bud, but I did see a nice gain from getting mine ported vs. stock. Quote
Coupelx Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 thanks dick.damn,i did it again.one of these days ill get it. your welcome. I was nice about it this time. Quote
camatv Posted March 10, 2011 Report Posted March 10, 2011 i would absolutely trash those cages. if i could post pics i can show whats safe and what i believe actually does something.. the chances of them breaking i would say is pretty high rember you have 2 still ass petals flopping around on them vibrating the hell out of the cage. any weak area's or leaks int he reed sealing is going to either break the cage and send all those neato pices flying through your motor OR break a petal OR leak fuel in and out and affect the jetting tremedously... BUT you got to start somewhere. i would suggest that you ACTUALLY do some research before you go ripping up your own stuff. those are rad valves the 36B series for banshee i have ported a set of those also and in all reality as cast the boyesen has all kinds of problems. they DO after porting make a very nice liner power delivery. the old 36a's did not have the huge stuffer in them i alos have a set of those.. i'd like to get another set of the rad valves and weld some spots up and re work a set.. herp derp derp herp Quote
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