suggestions on parts to order

[boise_banshee]

split'n my cases this weekend......any sugg. on parts to order while its open.

 

So far, I got

 

shift star, pancake bearing, billet basket, hd clutch, eccentric kit, shifter rod/lever/ball. New bearings and seals for trans. Sending crank to get welded & new crank bearings, billet impellar & gear, new bearing and seal for pump. New shift forks.

 

Missing anything???

[camatv]

umm yea crank seals OEM, yamabond OR import grey ( not 1211) clutch cover gasket base gaskets, head gaskets or o-rings intake gaskets, o-ring for water bypass through clutch cover ( use OEM) clutch boss lock washer, drive sproket lock washer. stainless allen bolt set ( if wanted) blue locktight for all bolts..

Edited December 28, 2010 by camatv

[Jereme6655]

reed gaskets

[SonOfSand]

split'n my cases this weekend......any sugg. on parts to order while its open.

 

So far, I got

 

shift star, pancake bearing, billet basket, hd clutch, eccentric kit, shifter rod/lever/ball. New bearings and seals for trans. Sending crank to get welded & new crank bearings, billet impellar & gear, new bearing and seal for pump. New shift forks.

 

Missing anything???

 

Just an Idea, don't spend the money on welding your stock crank, eBay for 100 bucks or so and buy a 4 mil crank, send the cylinders out to be ported, reassemble and you will have a totally different machine.

[boise_banshee]

Yikes guys!!!

 

I meant pertaining to the internals of the case. Gaskets......locktite.....wow

 

Really trying to get some info on common parts that fail/wear as I dont really want to make opening my cases a yearly thing.

 

-The more I price it out, to rebuild the crank and ship to weld, the idea of a 4mil kit has me thinking

[kodie]

If the cases are open and you are having work done to the stock crank now. Might as well go 4 mil. It will save you in the long run. And you won't have to split the motor twice. Jeff at f.a.s.t has welded 4 mils for 450.

[Wicked ATV]

SMALL LIST:

 

We suggest and We use 3-bond *1211* nothing besides it. But different strokes for different folks we all have our reasons. Mine is it don't make a mess and drop every where and it seals awesome. Besides that... Clutch lock tab, the eccentric screw lock tab, possible thrust washers if grooved replaced, Seals of course might as well replace them all. gaskets of course. Besides that if the budget don't allow you to get a +4mm stroker crank just have it trued and welded. Thou who ever does make sure they also check rod bearing thrust washer clearance as well the condition of you rods. Also as if you plan to keep it for a longer period of time replace the PTO and MAG bearings while at it. that should pretty much sum it up. You'll be able to make a better judgement when it's apart. If the crank is beyond specs or starting to separate then consider the up grade on a crank to the +4. no real reason to spend big bucks on the stock one unless you have a nice used one sitting around or also if you have ported cylinders that won't work out with a +4 stroker.

[bbcmudtruck]

One thing I like to keep fresh and replaced is the brass idler gear bushing. Its cheap, easy to replace and eventually its going to need it. www.farmandsandtoys.com has every oem part you need.

 

 

[boise_banshee]

wicked, mudtruck.....

 

thank you!!

 

Thats the kind of info I am after. I have the yamaha manual with all the run out specs on the trans bearings and crank so I will check for sure.