justinkk2005 Posted December 27, 2010 Report Posted December 27, 2010 So my day started out with the motion pro TORS removal kit (with idle kit). I drilled and tapped the first carb easy, everything threaded normally. Went to do the 2nd carb and the tap run out the threads to big so then I had to buy a helicoil kit to fix it..... that finally worked out. So I replaced the air box with k&n pods so I figured I should go up with my pilot and mains, so I went to a 30 pilot and a 310 main setup: 03 banshee .10 bore vforce 3s toomey t5s port cleanup (nothing big, just cleaned it up a bit...done by a member on the forum, done a GREAT job) elevation: 800 - 2000 ft (ride in a mountainous area) So I put both carbs back on and the threads on the idle kit are just like 3 turns out but the slides are all the way closed all most, don't know if that's right or not but I know that's a part in this i know. I cannot get it to idle without holding the throttle a bit (which has alot to do with the screws i know), but when i do get it to idle by holding the throttle a tad it sounds like shit. I mean it sounds like a choked out weedeater. I can ride it and when i hold it WOT it runs good after spitting a sputtering a bit, but as soon as you let off it runs horrible like it's getting to much fuel. So I went down a 27.5 pilot and left the 310 main, still done the same thing went down to a 25 pilot and a 290 main, still the same shit. I haven't messed with the air screws because it ran so good before, but what are your suggestions. It's acting like it's not getting enough air but you'd think with the pods it would be getting more than with the airbox. Any ideas? Is there a box to unhook from the TORS? It don't have the parking brake setup, that was gone when i got it. I found a box that I could plug in under the gas tank that was near the stearing stem a little, I unplugged that and it changed nothing. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted December 27, 2010 Report Posted December 27, 2010 (edited) The tors brain box is on left side of frame under tank. There's a pinned topic on tors by savage 420 , check that. You may have to grind area by idle screw more so that screw goes furter in so it contacs slide. Tors box shouldnt affect idle but unplug it anyways. whttp://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591 Edited December 27, 2010 by Larry's Shee Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Posted December 27, 2010 The tors brain box is on left side of frame under tank. There's a pinned topic on tors by savage 420 , check that. You may have to grind area by idle screw more so that screw goes furter in so it contacs slide. Tors box shouldnt affect idle but unplug it anyways. whttp://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=135591 thanks man, i'll try that with the idle, but what about 1/8 throttle - 3/4 WOT it runs good after it sputters a tad Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Posted December 27, 2010 unplugged that box, made no difference. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted December 27, 2010 Report Posted December 27, 2010 Ok , unless box was really jacked it wouldn't make a difference. Three things to check ,is choke crossover tube in place, are slides with the cutaway facing the air filter, are float bowls on correct carb? Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Posted December 27, 2010 Ok , unless box was really jacked it wouldn't make a difference. Three things to check ,is choke crossover tube in place, are slides with the cutaway facing the air filter, are float bowls on correct carb? idk how to check float bowls or how to adjust on them, can you enlighten me on this? The crossover tube is in place, it's a generic boost bottle of some sort. thanks for replying though man, i appreciate it. Quote
bansheesandrider Posted December 27, 2010 Report Posted December 27, 2010 idk how to check float bowls or how to adjust on them, can you enlighten me on this? The crossover tube is in place, it's a generic boost bottle of some sort. thanks for replying though man, i appreciate it. Not the crossover/boost bottle, but thechoke crossover tube. It is the black rubber hose between the 2 carbs inline with the choke knob. Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 27, 2010 Author Report Posted December 27, 2010 Not the crossover/boost bottle, but thechoke crossover tube. It is the black rubber hose between the 2 carbs inline with the choke knob. oh yea, that's all good i made sure of that. I had to make one but it's a perfect fit. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted December 28, 2010 Report Posted December 28, 2010 The bowl with the "BB" goes on left (choke knob) carb. Did you check slides ? Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 30, 2010 Author Report Posted December 30, 2010 slides were right, the needles were at the main bottom position, is that rich? I moved them up to the 2nd position and it helped a whole lot, still bogs and falls in on itself 1/4---1/2 throttle though >.< wot it runs awesome Quote
bigboybanshee Posted December 30, 2010 Report Posted December 30, 2010 slides were right, the needles were at the main bottom position, is that rich? I moved them up to the 2nd position and it helped a whole lot, still bogs and falls in on itself 1/4---1/2 throttle though >.< wot it runs awesome If the clip was on the bottom slot of the needle (farthest from the blunt end), then yes, that's as rich as the needle will allow. Going up on the clip position leaned out your mid throttle, which sounds like the right direction to me. 27.5 pilot sounds fine, but I'm confused about your idle screws. Are they three turns out or are you just looking down and seeing three threads? To accurately adjust your idle screws, screw them all the way in until they stop. Back them out one full rotation at a time. To me, it sounds like you need more air off idle to balance the fuel mixture, which would require you to open up that idle screw a little more. Definitely screw them all the way in to make sure they are both equal, then I would start with two full turns out. If it still seems rich, go another full turn out. If it starts clearing up and sounding better, I would drop your pilot to a 25 and put the idle/air screws at 1.5 turns out and fine tune from there. Rule of thumb is to have your idle screws 1-3 turns out. If your air screws are 1 turn out, you're a little lean on the pilot. If your air screws are 3 turns out, you're a little rich on the pilot. 2 turns out or close is where you want to be. Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 30, 2010 Author Report Posted December 30, 2010 Thanks alot man I have a 25 pilot, I did put the idle screws all the way in and it idles for about 4 seconds and then dies but if i keep it revved up it runs fine. The needle definitely helped it out alot, i'm going to put it on the top position today and see if that helps Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Posted December 31, 2010 Here guys i gotta video of it, I filed down the carb again and the idle screws go WAY in, almost to the middle. I know thats not the problem http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eah8S0_QwIw Quote
justinkk2005 Posted December 31, 2010 Author Report Posted December 31, 2010 bump please.. i'm dieing to figure this out lol Quote
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