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Are you talking about a tail light? or head lights? If it's a tail light, what year? they changed in 02 or 03 I believe, to an integrated brake/tail light.

 

I was actually talking about the headlights. I was just curious if there was an option where you can keep the stock housing and find a replacement bulb the same shape as the stock one but LEDs.

 

The tail-lights would be a good option too. Mine is an 89

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I was actually talking about the headlights. I was just curious if there was an option where you can keep the stock housing and find a replacement bulb the same shape as the stock one but LEDs.

 

The tail-lights would be a good option too. Mine is an 89

There are currently no LED replacement bulbs on the market that will be anywhere near bright enough to be usable. There are a couple members on here who have done HID conversions, for VERY cheap, and so far have had great luck with them. HID's watt for watt are brighter than LEDs, and you can keep your stock light housings. Send a PM to "jasons", and see if he can get you a parts list of everything he used. I know his HID kits were the h6m Xentec kits, available on ebay for about 35 bucks shipped. You have to do a DC conversion (piece of cake), and run a battery. (about 10-15 bucks from ebay). This is a project that can be done an evening or two.

 

The tail light bulb is part number 194. You can find LED replacements at just about any auto parts store, and I think even Walmart sells them.

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im curious, do the headlights have trouble with the heat from the hid...namely melting. i always assumed the stock housing was just to small to put an hid in. i had put hids in a buddys turn signals once, and they melted a hole clean through the lens.

HID bulbs actually are cooler to the touch, than Halogen. The bulbs, however, are much longer than halogen bulbs, which is probably why it burnt a hole in his lense. The stock banshee housing is so deep, that there are no clearance issues with the HID kits from Xentec.

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This is what i have. 100w moose stator that i converted to DC. i bought a cheap 12v 7ah sla battery for 8 bucks on ebay. also go to AutoZone and look for a light called LED it basically replaces the rear tail light but is held on by 1 of the mounting screws no issue with it coming loose. you can do the DC conversion on your stock stator as well and run these HIDs just make sure you run a LED tail light. also you need to buy a Volatage regulator there about 40 bucks on ebay or you can use one off a old motorcycle. and PM MattSCESC for a battery box he might be able to hook you up. also make sure you got good wires and wire connectors. take your time and it can be done in a night. any question just pm me i hope i covered it all.

 

Rectifer from ricky stator

http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=88

 

HID kit i bought

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Super-Slim-HID-Kit-H1-H4-H7-H3-H6m-6K-8K-3K-10K-12K-30K-/260370986777?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3c9f51f719

 

Batty i bought

http://cgi.ebay.com/12V-10ah-Sealed-Lead-Acid-Battery-/290509772610?pt=PCA_UPS&hash=item43a3bb5742

 

 

HIDs installed

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great info!!....i think there might be a difference between those slim ones and the oem porsche/lexus hids i have. (i used these before they started to become mass marketed, and they have lasted longer then any aftermarket ones i have purchased). this week im going to do a test run on them and see how it goes.

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great info!!....i think there might be a difference between those slim ones and the oem porsche/lexus hids i have. (i used these before they started to become mass marketed, and they have lasted longer then any aftermarket ones i have purchased). this week im going to do a test run on them and see how it goes.

The more you pay for lighting, the better logevity and performance you will get from the product.

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great info!!....i think there might be a difference between those slim ones and the oem porsche/lexus hids i have. (i used these before they started to become mass marketed, and they have lasted longer then any aftermarket ones i have purchased). this week im going to do a test run on them and see how it goes.

Do a bench test. Back before I got rid of my banshee, I was going to do the same conversion that Jason did. (There was a thread on this somewhere). I did a bench test with a spare set of lights I had... In one light was the PIAA 35w bulb, the other light was the Xentec 35w HID kit. I ran them overnight (bad idea). The PIAA halogen bulb destroyed the housing. Heat rises (temporarily)... I left them with the lenses pointing straight up... came back in the morning, and had a hole clean through the lens on the halogen light. HID was still going strong, and the lens was cool to the touch. It was about 55 degrees in the garage when I checked them in the morning.

 

Halogens produce around 29 lumens per watt, HID's produce 110 lumens per watt (roughly). A 35watt halogen will be about 1015 lumens, and a 35 watt HID will be 3850. Of course every manufacturer will be different, but that's a pretty good average.

The rest of the wattage eaten up by the halogen, is converted to heat (Waste).

 

Keep in mind, though. That your stock housing was designed for a halogen bulb, not an HID. You won't get the most efficient light dispersion, but you can see by Jason's pictures, it doesn't really matter... lol. They are BRIGHT, and throw the light VERY far...

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Do a bench test. Back before I got rid of my banshee, I was going to do the same conversion that Jason did. (There was a thread on this somewhere). I did a bench test with a spare set of lights I had... In one light was the PIAA 35w bulb, the other light was the Xentec 35w HID kit. I ran them overnight (bad idea). The PIAA halogen bulb destroyed the housing. Heat rises (temporarily)... I left them with the lenses pointing straight up... came back in the morning, and had a hole clean through the lens on the halogen light. HID was still going strong, and the lens was cool to the touch. It was about 55 degrees in the garage when I checked them in the morning.

 

Halogens produce around 29 lumens per watt, HID's produce 110 lumens per watt (roughly). A 35watt halogen will be about 1015 lumens, and a 35 watt HID will be 3850. Of course every manufacturer will be different, but that's a pretty good average.

The rest of the wattage eaten up by the halogen, is converted to heat (Waste).

 

Keep in mind, though. That your stock housing was designed for a halogen bulb, not an HID. You won't get the most efficient light dispersion, but you can see by Jason's pictures, it doesn't really matter... lol. They are BRIGHT, and throw the light VERY far...

I was doing a bench test, thats how I found out.

 

 

Halogens on Average Actually produce only 12-14 lumens per watt in MR16 bulbs like the ones everyone uses in the trail tech lights.

 

Standard banshee housings using the H6M Halogen are only about 700-750 lumens, an aftermarket piaa bulb in 4000k xtreme white would be around 1,000 lumens. The stock housings are so bad though, that even a trail tech light works better than a stock housing with piaa bulbs in it.

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I was doing a bench test, thats how I found out.

 

 

Halogens on Average Actually produce only 12-14 lumens per watt in MR16 bulbs like the ones everyone uses in the trail tech lights.

 

Standard banshee housings using the H6M Halogen are only about 700-750 lumens, an aftermarket piaa bulb in 4000k xtreme white would be around 1,000 lumens. The stock housings are so bad though, that even a trail tech light works better than a stock housing with piaa bulbs in it.

 

i have to disagree on the trail techs. they suck to be honest especially for duning. i ripped them off and put stock lights back on and with the Tusk super bright lights and blew the trail techs out the water. and now that i have he HIDs in the stock housing the housing stay cool to the touch and throw the light stupid far. wish i would have taken some pics out in glamis thanksgiving weekend could easily see from one side of the sand drags to ther other and then some.

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Ehh, I had some big long fact-driven rant typed out, but it's not worth posting. The chart that I posted below should settle everything. This is an argument that has been going on for ever... and never goes anywhere. The facts are the facts. Sorry...

 

WATT PER WATT HID's ARE BRIGHTER THAN LEDS OR HALOGENS.

This chart is posted on VisionX's website. Very poor marketing idea if you ask me...

visionx.jpg

 

With that being said/proven/done... For anyone interested, in the next few weeks I will have in stock, LED lightbars for sale, ranging from 4", all the way up to 52". On bars 22" and above, you can get a combination bar, ie half flood, half spot. They are currently being manufactured in Carlsbad, CA with Philips Lumiled 5w Lambertian LED's... and will be available in either a Flood, Euro, and Spot pattern for a little more than HALF the cost of other manufacturers with a 2 year warranty, on the entire light. Wiring, housings, lenses, LED's, anything. Watch for a thread in the sponsor spotlight section soon! :headbang::cheers:

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