Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently bought two banshee's from a lady divorcing her husband.. (Gotta love craigslist.. : ) A 1997 and a 1987 She gave me the two shee's for a killer deal but she didnt know hardly anything about them..All she knew was the 97 was ported and had engine work done and they both ran on pump gas...

 

Anyhow...

 

the 1997 started up and was running good after cleaning the carbs but was running basically titts maybee a little lean

anyhow I took the carbon fiber reeds it had out and put in the vforce reed cages and reeds (new yamaha gaskets) I was at a 290 main's and 25 pilot when I bought it and since changing to the vforce Ive worked my way upto 360's! and a 27.5 pilot..Needle a second slot from the bottom RUNS LIKE SH** and still lean... :angry:

Its seems to be running super fat as if it was too rich but hardly any white smoke. and the plugs almost near white after a plug chop..

Ive done a leak test with a water bottle no air leaks

 

 

 

by the way im running 91 octane (highest I can get at the pump in socal..) with Yamalube almost 36:1 WTF!!!!

I should be fouling plugs...

 

The 1987 came with a stock motor with bills pipes and some 40MM mikuni fat slides...THIS GUY MUST HAVE BEEN SMOKED OUT!!

I found some stock carbs. and now its running like a champ...

 

 

I still have the 40mm carbs It was thinking of trying them on the 97

 

Any suggestions?????? Thanks for taking time to read my post

Posted

I recently bought two banshee's from a lady divorcing her husband.. (Gotta love craigslist.. : ) A 1997 and a 1987 She gave me the two shee's for a killer deal but she didnt know hardly anything about them..All she knew was the 97 was ported and had engine work done and they both ran on pump gas...

 

Anyhow...

 

the 1997 started up and was running good after cleaning the carbs but was running basically titts maybee a little lean

anyhow I took the carbon fiber reeds it had out and put in the vforce reed cages and reeds (new yamaha gaskets) I was at a 290 main's and 25 pilot when I bought it and since changing to the vforce Ive worked my way upto 360's! and a 27.5 pilot..Needle a second slot from the bottom RUNS LIKE SH** and still lean... :angry:

Its seems to be running super fat as if it was too rich but hardly any white smoke. and the plugs almost near white after a plug chop..

Ive done a leak test with a water bottle no air leaks

 

 

 

by the way im running 91 octane (highest I can get at the pump in socal..) with Yamalube almost 36:1 WTF!!!!

I should be fouling plugs...

 

The 1987 came with a stock motor with bills pipes and some 40MM mikuni fat slides...THIS GUY MUST HAVE BEEN SMOKED OUT!!

I found some stock carbs. and now its running like a champ...

 

 

I still have the 40mm carbs It was thinking of trying them on the 97

 

Any suggestions?????? Thanks for taking time to read my post

 

Have you done a leakdown on the '97 shee? Mite be a serious air leak..... :shrugani:

 

IMHO I wouldn't put the 40's on the '97. Those carbs should be on a pretty large built bike.

Posted

A leak down test is when u start the bike and spray all around the head ans carb boots to see if u see any bubbling or see if it sucks any water in..

It has stock carbs it has the choke air tube connected also...

Ive rebuilt two banshees and over 15 Blasters so im ive gone through all the ideas i could think of

Posted

how do i test it in that area? just take off the stator cover?

And the other side has the clutch..

A leak down test is when You spray water in the affected area when it running??? Just asking I hard myy friend use this term and thats how he described it...

Posted

at this point Im almost gonna just put it back to the 290's or even try 300's and put my regular carbon reeds in..

Im fed up! ive had the carbs off over 10 times this week!!

Ive checked the floatbowl level its right on...

Posted

The water bottle thing is one way to do a quick check but the best way to do it is to use a leak down tester. What you do is use the tester and put 6psi into the motor and see if it holds the pressure for 6 minutes. It will test the whole motor.

The tester cost about $20 to build and only takes a few minutes to put together.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...