thrill-billy85 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 First off..... If your floats are set too high, what symptoms are you gonna see? Cause right now it takes about 10 kicks, then it fires right up. Once it starts and warms up it'll start real easy (one kick, no throttle) BUT if I wait 30 minutes or so, same thing, 10 kicks to fire. ADDITIONALLY there is a lot of black soot/oily shit dripping from the exhaust pipes. This all started happening after swapping the float bowls to the CORRECT carbs, and also the slides. Which nmeans they were both in there 180* backwards. A buddy of mine said I probably accidentally bent the float arms when I had the carbs off. This makes it fill up too much and leak fuel into the cylinder and those first 10 kicks are just to get the excess fuel out and the oily black soot is it all getting burned up in the exhaust. Also now when I'm riding and after a run thru the gears or powerband it'll sputter on the way back down to idle.... Which tells me jetting or just too much fuel (rich). What do yall think. Now to the fun stuff.... I'm trying to spend my tax return before I get it.... I wanna go with a stage 2 port either by herr jugs or FAST. Right now I have delta 2's and fmf fattys. .020 over. Hot rods crank with about 20 hrs on it. I have a cool head and 20 cc domes thatll go in it too. The thing I'm having problems with is what carb set-up to go with. I'm thinking 28mil flatside mikunis with billett intakes. But I've heard 33/34 keihins. From past exp I like keihins better. That being said I think they'll be too big for the port job I want (which would be stage 2 (herr or FAST). I really just want an easy to start reliable bike making about 50-60 hp. Any help would be good. I'm willing to spend 1-1.5K on the motor.... Carbs, intakes, port job, timing plate (???) MAYBE a set of T-5's..... Just like the sound.... Powder coated black FMF fattys need to go.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chevrolet banshee Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 First off..... If your floats are set too high, what symptoms are you gonna see? Cause right now it takes about 10 kicks, then it fires right up. Once it starts and warms up it'll start real easy (one kick, no throttle) BUT if I wait 30 minutes or so, same thing, 10 kicks to fire. ADDITIONALLY there is a lot of black soot/oily shit dripping from the exhaust pipes. This all started happening after swapping the float bowls to the CORRECT carbs, and also the slides. Which nmeans they were both in there 180* backwards. A buddy of mine said I probably accidentally bent the float arms when I had the carbs off. This makes it fill up too much and leak fuel into the cylinder and those first 10 kicks are just to get the excess fuel out and the oily black soot is it all getting burned up in the exhaust. Also now when I'm riding and after a run thru the gears or powerband it'll sputter on the way back down to idle.... Which tells me jetting or just too much fuel (rich). What do yall think. Now to the fun stuff.... I'm trying to spend my tax return before I get it.... I wanna go with a stage 2 port either by herr jugs or FAST. Right now I have delta 2's and fmf fattys. .020 over. Hot rods crank with about 20 hrs on it. I have a cool head and 20 cc domes thatll go in it too. The thing I'm having problems with is what carb set-up to go with. I'm thinking 28mil flatside mikunis with billett intakes. But I've heard 33/34 keihins. From past exp I like keihins better. That being said I think they'll be too big for the port job I want (which would be stage 2 (herr or FAST). I really just want an easy to start reliable bike making about 50-60 hp. Any help would be good. I'm willing to spend 1-1.5K on the motor.... Carbs, intakes, port job, timing plate (???) MAYBE a set of T-5's..... Just like the sound.... Powder coated black FMF fattys need to go.... What youll probily want is a set of 32mm pwk's with a boss intake and some v force reeds a dune/play port from fast with your cool head and some t5 pipes and youll be set. as far as the bad startind/running always start with the plugs (seams like its always the simple things) your probily to rich to. when its parked not running do you smell fuel? thats with the petcock on. if so that night be you have float issues, but proper jetting will make a diffrance in starting. hope i helped Chevshee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 My first thought was bowl on wrong carb as they are different (one has a choke circuit in the bowl) but you said you changed that. Also check to make sure clip is set right on needle. Sounds like your rich when running and lean upon start up. Choke tube on/in between carbs? Whomever you choose for porting ask them which carbs they recommend for your setup or porting that is getting done. I would prolly say 33 pwks for play riding or stock stroke or 35s for more racing or 4mm stroke. Either way your about to have some fun!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Ok the choke tube is on. I need to check out the plugs, but I'm really not sure what I'm looking at. Inside the crown they're black, the porcelian is dark brown, and they're wet (oily stuff) ill get them changed and see how they look..... Again though... Could it be the floats? The thing smokes quite a bit after start up. I just think its draining all the gas in the fuel line down into the reed cage/cylinder cause the floats are to high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTOYS Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Could be floats, check to make sure they are not bent or catching on carb body. Ususally if floats stick they leak out the bottom of carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 X2 check your floats. On the porting, I don't think you can go wrong with any site sponsor here...We have some great sponsors. Make some phone calls and see who you feel most comfortable with building your shee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 My setup for trails and dunes which I LOVE. And it rips. 35mm Kehin PWK's with K&N pods and billet intakes. VF3 reeds. R&B Racing dune port (Choose builder of your choice, of course), stock stroke, 0.040"over, 19cc domes in a Trinity Head (185psi, runs on 110 octane). CPI inframe pipes. This setup has proven to be awesome in any riding environment. I thought the carbs would be too big, but I noticed a nice increase in "seat of the pants" power when switching from 28mm's. Good luck! -JD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 My setup for trails and dunes which I LOVE. And it rips. 35mm Kehin PWK's with K&N pods and billet intakes. VF3 reeds. R&B Racing dune port (Choose builder of your choice, of course), stock stroke, 0.040"over, 19cc domes in a Trinity Head (185psi, runs on 110 octane). CPI inframe pipes. This setup has proven to be awesome in any riding environment. I thought the carbs would be too big, but I noticed a nice increase in "seat of the pants" power when switching from 28mm's. Good luck! -JD Yeah I think honestly ill probably go right in the middle and run 33s. Now what's the diff between PJ's and PWK's? And from what I read the stock 26 mikunis are kind of a beoch to get tuned... That being said when I scrap these, is keihin pretty much the way to go??? Also, what's the scoop on these +4 timing plates. I'm reading they're improving HP by 2-3? Would this be necessary on the set-up I'm wanting to run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06specialedition Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Yeah I think honestly ill probably go right in the middle and run 33s. Now what's the diff between PJ's and PWK's? And from what I read the stock 26 mikunis are kind of a beoch to get tuned... That being said when I scrap these, is keihin pretty much the way to go??? Also, what's the scoop on these +4 timing plates. I'm reading they're improving HP by 2-3? Would this be necessary on the set-up I'm wanting to run? The timing plate is a good mod for $40. I've always ran a ricky stator plate on my shees with no problems. On a mild build +4 to +5 is the most I would go IMHO. Yeah stock carbs are 26's. I've ran stock carbs on a ported shees and they have always ripped hard. I'm no carb expert but I've heard stock carbs are good up too about 65HP (someone correct me if I'm wrong). But I'm sure some 33's would get the FULL potential out of a ported motor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 The timing plate is a good mod for $40. I've always ran a ricky stator plate on my shees with no problems. On a mild build +4 to +5 is the most I would go IMHO. Yeah stock carbs are 26's. I've ran stock carbs on a ported shees and they have always ripped hard. I'm no carb expert but I've heard stock carbs are good up too about 65HP (someone correct me if I'm wrong). But I'm sure some 33's would get the FULL potential out of a ported motor the ones i have on there have just been molested to hell and back. the guy i bought it from was an idiot. like i said he had the bowls on the wrong carbs AND the slides in the wrong carbs (which means they were backwards to clear the idle screw) i know a smaller carb will have a higher air velocity from the venturi effect. BUT i agree with posts ive read saying the stockers are a bitch to tune. as far as aftermarket stuff goes, anyone know the difference between PWK and PJ, and can we all agree that keihins are superior to mikunis. i just really cant wait to use the 26's and a trot-line weight!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87sheerips Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Yeah I think honestly ill probably go right in the middle and run 33s. Now what's the diff between PJ's and PWK's? And from what I read the stock 26 mikunis are kind of a beoch to get tuned... That being said when I scrap these, is keihin pretty much the way to go??? Also, what's the scoop on these +4 timing plates. I'm reading they're improving HP by 2-3? Would this be necessary on the set-up I'm wanting to run? Sorry, I forgot to mention that I also run +4 timing. Most definately a key part of the puzzle with this setup. Made a huge difference. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 well, if you are looking in the 1k-1500 range, then you can just go 4mill. or even go to a serval 421 package. that's 80hpthat you can bolt right on with what you got, and do the rest later......but the servals are only at the sale price for a little while, untill supplies run out. otherwise, you can just go up to a 4 mill dune/play port, and upgrade to 30's. toomey stingers make fmf's run better, too. if you port for a stock stroke crank, then you usually cant get good port out of it if you want to go 4mill stroker later. mostly, end up with a drag port (all top-end power, and no bottom/mid driveability) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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