justinkk2005 Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) Hey guys, this is a great looking site and i've been searching on here for dayssssss before I actually joined and getting my questions answered. I recently traded my YFZ 450 to an 03 Banshee MINT Condition with toomey t5's, perfect jetting, and great looking plastic. I just installed some VF3's in it today and it really pepped it up a little But anyway, my question is this, i've been reading alot about the stock water pump (plastic propellers) breaking/melting so as a precautionary thing I went ahead and ordered the Pro Design Mega Propeller for it (and it's nice to know it makes it run a little cooler) and I also add engine ice for an added level of protection. So here is my question: Do I have to take the whole clutch cover off to access the water pump or can I just take off the water pump cover? I've never tore into one of these things before so i'm pretty clueless. Edited October 9, 2010 by justinkk2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superswire Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 yep, get yourself some new oil and a gasket, you will get different opinions, but i highly reccomend belray gearsaver for your crank case, you will also need a clutch cover gasket. here's a link to the service manual https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0CQb1pV1ycgMDQ3NjQ4ZTUtMjRlMC00Y2UwLTlkNzctNGY4ZGIxYjZhMDI1&hl=en Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinkk2005 Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 yep, get yourself some new oil and a gasket, you will get different opinions, but i highly reccomend belray gearsaver for your crank case, you will also need a clutch cover gasket. here's a link to the service manual https://docs.google.com/fileview?id=0B0CQb1pV1ycgMDQ3NjQ4ZTUtMjRlMC00Y2UwLTlkNzctNGY4ZGIxYjZhMDI1&hl=en I didn't order a clutch cover gasket :/ I already have some Belray gear oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry's Shee Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Welcome to BHQ !! Most excellent trade !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 well, if you want, grab your shifter and push it in-out to see how much play/wear is in the case where the end of the shift shaft sits against it. if there is a good amount of end play, like 1/16"+, then you can ditch the gasket and run some rtv sealant/gasket maker. a thin film will do. that's what i did with mine and had great results. the blue stuff is best, imho. I've tried different kinds, and it seems to hold where others wouldn't. it never really hardens. it's pretty simple to take the cover off. remove the kicker, rear brake lever, and peg/nerf mount. then, the #3 Phillips screws. you will likely strip it using a #2, and an impact driver, or valve laping compound will help to pop them loose. the pump will stay attached to the cover. just remove the clip on the inside, then gear/washer, and slide the keeper pin out the side. it's usually a real good idea to replace the pump bearing and seal at the same time. the cover can hang up on the water pipe o-ring during removal/install. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
superswire Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 (edited) well, if you want, grab your shifter and push it in-out to see how much play/wear is in the case where the end of the shift shaft sits against it. if there is a good amount of end play, like 1/16"+, then you can ditch the gasket and run some rtv sealant/gasket maker. a thin film will do. that's what i did with mine and had great results. the blue stuff is best, imho. I've tried different kinds, and it seems to hold where others wouldn't. it never really hardens. it's pretty simple to take the cover off. remove the kicker, rear brake lever, and peg/nerf mount. then, the #3 Phillips screws. you will likely strip it using a #2, and an impact driver, or valve laping compound will help to pop them loose. the pump will stay attached to the cover. just remove the clip on the inside, then gear/washer, and slide the keeper pin out the side. it's usually a real good idea to replace the pump bearing and seal at the same time. the cover can hang up on the water pipe o-ring during removal/install. Thanks for taking the time to explain the process better AK, i was in a hurry at the time... I've used RTV on stuff from time to time as well, just make sure you clean all the old gasket material off and clean it with alcohol or aceton or mineral spitits or something, read the directions carefully, everyone just smooshes all the RTV out of the joint all the time, you need to run yourslef a nice thin bead as even as possible int the CENTER of the gasket surface and circle around all the bolt holes...put it on carefully not to disturb the bead and only tighten the cover retaining screws finger tight, wait about an hour for it to start setting up and crank em down in a criss-cross pattern...if any squishes out, you can wait a day or so for it to comletely dry and cut it of with a razor blade so it looks nice and tidy. I prefer gaskets, but i've turned bikes and atvs on thier sides so the oil is away from the cover and swapped out water pumps and clutch and kicker components with no problems...and most definately use the correct size screwdriver, nothing sucks worse than a stripped screw, if you dont have one, an impact driver is only like 15 bucks and the best investment you can make for working on fine thread screws in aluminum that are subject to temperature and weather, one whack and they always break loose, i use mine on screws that are completely rounded out, BAM!!! and they spin, its pretty much a miracle tool... Good luck man...the billet impeller/new seal and bearing ARE worth it and i agree with the engine ice coolant, shit works WONDERS !!!, I had a temp guage on 2 different shees and both times i filled with engine ice, lowered the operating temp about 10 degrees or more, thats a huge difference for just changing coolant... Edited October 9, 2010 by superswire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 yah, i like to just use brake kleen and smear the thin film over it, instead of a bead, then you can just crank her down and not worry about excess squishing out and getting inside, or wait for it to set. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinkk2005 Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 Thanks for the awesome responses, I've heard good things about BansheeHQ. I have a turbo honda civic and I have experiences that are not so pleasant from other forums lol I'll post up pictures later, I did order a clutch cover gasket. Toomey, Fluidyne, Boss, or China Radiator? What do you guys suggest. On a semi-tight budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandfrk33 Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 I haven't heard anything bad about the chinese rads yet. $100 on ebay sounds better than $300 -$400. Another thing you might check out is the allen head bolts for the clutch cover. You won't have to worry about stripping them in the future. And they look cool. Only like 8 bucks from Rocky mtn atv. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AKheathen Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 if you do some searching around, you will find pretty much all the answers you seek. i can tell you that the china radiators have received some good feed-back, so far, but they haven't been around long enough for some long-term feed-back. upgrading the radiator, however is usually something you do once you get pretty far allong on a build, where the extra cooling is needed, or if yours has failed. there are other things you can spend the money on first. while the clutch cover is off, you probably want to inspect the clutch plates and gear bushings, etc....possibly upgrade the clutch, i most definitely suggest a pancake bearing, and i know i personally could not resist shift star and shift shaft mod first time i opened mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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