kawa110 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Im out riding my bike i was about 30 mins into ride coasted down rocky hill bike in gear with clutch pulled in get to bottom let out clutch bike backfires them stalls. I coast to bottom find nuetrel start it, as soon as i hit the throttle it died, i repeated this. the parking brake is not activated. Bike will start and idle hit gas and dies wont rev up, doesn't bog like break is on just dies out. Got home(pushed bike then got picked up by buddy) I put some used plugs in it to see if she start i only kicked it like 5 times before girlfreind was calling me in, i put bike away. If i fouled the plugs i wouldn't think it would start and idle, but i don't know what else it is. My filters were clean i keep high maintenace on my bike. maybe main jet clogged or bad plugs? did my stater take a sh** on me? Any sugestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Im out riding my bike i was about 30 mins into ride coasted down rocky hill bike in gear with clutch pulled in get to bottom let out clutch bike backfires them stalls. I coast to bottom find nuetrel start it, as soon as i hit the throttle it died, i repeated this. the parking brake is not activated. Bike will start and idle hit gas and dies wont rev up, doesn't bog like break is on just dies out. Got home(pushed bike then got picked up by buddy) I put some used plugs in it to see if she start i only kicked it like 5 times before girlfreind was calling me in, i put bike away. If i fouled the plugs i wouldn't think it would start and idle, but i don't know what else it is. My filters were clean i keep high maintenace on my bike. maybe main jet clogged or bad plugs? did my stater take a sh** on me? Any sugestions? This sounds like a TORS problem. Has the TORS system been deactivated? Try unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank, next to the coil. You should definetely get a TORS removal kit if you have not already done so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1bad450r Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 This sounds like a TORS problem. Has the TORS system been deactivated? Try unplugging the little black box under the left side of the fuel tank, next to the coil. You should definetely get a TORS removal kit if you have not already done so. X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted October 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 No I havnt removed the t.o.r.s. I really prefer to leave it on Because my girlfreind likes to ride the bike and the system used to work fine. Why would it just happen without any warnings. I am going to unplug the little box under front fender then start it and see if shee still bogs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CGR fmxer Posted October 31, 2010 Report Share Posted October 31, 2010 No I havnt removed the t.o.r.s. I really prefer to leave it on Because my girlfreind likes to ride the bike and the system used to work fine. Why would it just happen without any warnings. I am going to unplug the little box under front fender then start it and see if shee still bogs. go to the cdi box and on the clear plug in, cut the yellow and green striped wire and that will fix yor problem for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 unplugging the black box worked. Does this mean the black box is bad or the switches on the carbs? my clymer manuel says to take a ohmeter to the wires coming out of the black box connector test those and test the wires at the connectors going to the carb switches to check im supposed to open throttle all the way and see if there is resistance. I dont have a ohmmeter right now. Is ther any other way to check the switches? ill gt a ohmeter this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrill-billy85 Posted November 5, 2010 Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 unplugging the black box worked. Does this mean the black box is bad or the switches on the carbs? my clymer manuel says to take a ohmeter to the wires coming out of the black box connector test those and test the wires at the connectors going to the carb switches to check im supposed to open throttle all the way and see if there is resistance. I dont have a ohmmeter right now. Is ther any other way to check the switches? ill gt a ohmeter this weekend. Yeah umm.... Don't buy an ohmeter... Buy a tors eliminator kit. These are things that are crucial to having a dependable banshee. Those tors systems have SO many components that always go bad. I'm not sure how much an ohmeter costs... But you buy that, plus whatever is fucked up (assuming you actually do narrow it down and ONLY buy the right piece) you can easily have already bought the tors eliminator kit.... And NEVER have to worry about it screwing up again.. Which it will. The bike will still perform the same as before, so u don't have to worry about ur girlfriewnd killing herself on it anymore than you did before... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 sounds more like the parking brake, not the TORS. If it was the park brake rev limiter it would miss and sputter when he tries to rev it. He said it dies when he tries to rev it and that is what the TORS system does, it cuts the ignition completely when the throttle and carb switches are not in the right sequence or it is screwed up. He unplugged the TORS box and it solved the problem. TORS is a stand alone system and the park brake rev limiter is built into the CDI box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 go to the cdi box and on the clear plug in, cut the yellow and green striped wire and that will fix yor problem for sure. No, that is the park brake rev limiter and as you can read from his follow up, it was the TORS system. They are 2 seperate systems and have 2 different sets of symptons, problems and repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 6, 2010 Report Share Posted November 6, 2010 (edited) No I havnt removed the t.o.r.s. I really prefer to leave it on Because my girlfreind likes to ride the bike and the system used to work fine. Why would it just happen without any warnings. I am going to unplug the little box under front fender then start it and see if shee still bogs. The TORS will not prevent rider error, it is only designed to prevent the engine from continuing to run at more than an idle once the thumb throttle is closed. It failed without warning because that is how modern electronics fail, because everything is solid state they work OK until they don't work at all. Edited November 6, 2010 by bansheesandrider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kawa110 Posted November 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 (edited) allright ill break down and get the eliminator kit. gives me good reason to remove carbs and clean. For now ill just leave the box unplugged. if i unplug the switches at carbs with the bike still run good? im going to eliminate the tors, but if i unplug the switches will it prevent the bike from dieing on me while im on the trail?(could just unplug on the trail if it does)Willit work without? I dont see why it wouldnt worked with unplugged, all the moving componets are still hooked up. Ya i dindt think that it wouldnt prevent some one from holding the throttle open while in gear when i posted that. Edited November 7, 2010 by kawa110 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted November 7, 2010 Report Share Posted November 7, 2010 allright ill break down and get the eliminator kit. gives me good reason to remove carbs and clean. For now ill just leave the box unplugged. if i unplug the switches at carbs with the bike still run good? im going to eliminate the tors, but if i unplug the switches will it prevent the bike from dieing on me while im on the trail?(could just unplug on the trail if it does)Willit work without? I dont see why it wouldnt worked with unplugged, all the moving componets are still hooked up. Ya i dindt think that it wouldnt prevent some one from holding the throttle open while in gear when i posted that. The ONLY thing you have to do to disable theTORS system is unplug the control box, everything else can stay hooked up. The TORS eliminator kit just gets rid of the big bulky carb tops and provides a new way to adjust your idle once the carb tops are gone. The 93 Banshee that my father in law bought brand new from a dealer came with the box unplugged because that dealer was tired of fighting it on all the bikes he sold, so he just started unplugging them when he did predelivery setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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