bansheeboi Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 ok guys this the deal im building a stroker and i wanted know what the best head to run with? a coolhead an if so what size domes? or on the other hand a stock head? i've heard some story's bout have your stock head milled or shaved? not sure bout that fill me in please also far as performace goes which is best but keep in mind that im building a sleeper so i really would like to stay looking stock but if not then i just run a black coolhead but what you guys think bout that? Quote
brugal Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 keep in mind that im building a sleeper If your building a true sleeper ,you have to keep the stock head. You have to get the stock head milled & rechambered. A black coolhead looks nothing like a stock head. Quote
bansheeboi Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Posted October 1, 2010 If your building a true sleeper ,you have to keep the stock head. You have to get the stock head milled & rechambered. A black coolhead looks nothing like a stock head. yea i know but i wasnt sure of what to run so who or were is a good place to have my head done? do you know of any? Quote
2001blackshee Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 yea i know but i wasnt sure of what to run so who or were is a good place to have my head done? do you know of any? I jusit asked the same questions... Plain and simple.. people who know banshee's know an aftermarket head... IF you want the stock look.. use the stock head.. theres alot of debates about this topic... ive learned that threw starting a thread like this already.. scroll threw the threads in here and you see it ..... there some good opinions in it... I am to looking for a place to send my stock head to as well.!!!! Quote
Roccdeezy Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 If your building a true sleeper ,you have to keep the stock head. You have to get the stock head milled & rechambered. A black coolhead looks nothing like a stock head. Also keep in mind a true sleeper will need cylinder porting to match up to a blaster piston if using a 4mil 115 rod to match the port timing otherwise you will have to use a stroker plate to get this right and banshee guys will see the plate as well. Quote
Larry's Shee Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 http://www.mullengineering.com/sc/store.php/products/yamaha-banshee-yfz-rz-head-mod-billet-cut-modify-machine-squish-dome-plug-heat-race-drag-online-modify-modification There you have it. Quote
bansheeboi Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Posted October 2, 2010 Also keep in mind a true sleeper will need cylinder porting to match up to a blaster piston if using a 4mil 115 rod to match the port timing otherwise you will have to use a stroker plate to get this right and banshee guys will see the plate as well. ok got that but cant you port the jugs to were you dont have to use the stroker plate? i hear a lot of things bout that plates and its not good a lot of people say those plates are moreless a short cut and a big problems and they always leak and then your is fucked! now if im not right please correct me just wanna make sure this build is right from top to bottom Quote
bansheeboi Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Posted October 2, 2010 Also keep in mind a true sleeper will need cylinder porting to match up to a blaster piston if using a 4mil 115 rod to match the port timing otherwise you will have to use a stroker plate to get this right and banshee guys will see the plate as well. ok got that but cant you port the jugs to were you dont have to use the stroker plate? i hear a lot of things bout that plates and its not good a lot of people say those plates are moreless a short cut and a big problems and they always leak and then your is fucked! now if im not right please correct me just wanna make sure this build is right from top to bottom Quote
Roccdeezy Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 (edited) ok got that but cant you port the jugs to were you dont have to use the stroker plate? i hear a lot of things bout that plates and its not good a lot of people say those plates are moreless a short cut and a big problems and they always leak and then your is fucked! now if im not right please correct me just wanna make sure this build is right from top to bottom Your right. You have to get the exhaust ported to match up with the piston for correct port timing. since its going to the shop you should have the intake ported as well to make some good power. You can then run a 795 banshee piston up to a 68mm or a blaster piston from 66mm and up without a stroker plate. Just make sure you have the correct dome becasue blaster and banshee pistons have different angle domes. Also make sure you go with the 115 rod. the 110 is really hard on the cylinder and there is not many options with a 4 mil 110mm rod other then stock cylinders. 115 rod will leave you more options down the road for a cub or cheetah. Edited October 2, 2010 by Roccdeezy Quote
shanYE west Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 Also keep in mind a true sleeper will need cylinder porting to match up to a blaster piston if using a 4mil 115 rod to match the port timing otherwise you will have to use a stroker plate to get this right and banshee guys will see the plate as well. You only need to use blaster pistons if your bore is larger then 66mm. And no porting is need to match the piston. The 795 pistons are designed for the 115mm rods.. not the 4mil stroke. Other mods need to be done to accomadate for the stroke. either a stroker plate.. or porting AND cut domes for a 4mil. I prefer the porting and domes. Cubs dont need the modded domes since they add deck height for the stroke. Your right. You have to get the exhaust ported to match up with the piston for correct port timing. since its going to the shop you should have the intake ported as well to make some good power. You can then run a 795 banshee piston up to a 68mm or a blaster piston from 66mm and up without a stroker plate. Just make sure you have the correct dome becasue blaster and banshee pistons have different angle domes. Also make sure you go with the 115 rod. the 110 is really hard on the cylinder and there is not many options with a 4 mil 110mm rod other then stock cylinders. 115 rod will leave you more options down the road for a cub or cheetah. 795 series pistons are only available up to a 66mm.. Thats why we use Blaster pistons in our 68mm cubs. You can use short rod cranks in just about any motor.. as long as a piston is available for that setup.. Some setups require specialty pistons which limits your options. Quote
shanYE west Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 The ultimate sleeper head is a machined stocker to accept interchangeable domes.... Very trick.. Quote
AKheathen Posted October 2, 2010 Report Posted October 2, 2010 The ultimate sleeper head is a machined stocker to accept interchangeable domes.... Very trick.. x2....if money is a little tight, just cet the rechamber from mull, and it will run really good. but, being able to run domes can allow you to squeeze some more out of custom cut chambers, since there os more meat to work with in dome blanks, than a stock chamber. don't listen to that guy, you don't need to run blaster pistons unless you are set on going big bore anyways, which i recommend a re-sleeve. the plate is the cheap way to just get a 4mill running, but sacrifices a lot of power through port timing, and i mean all ports, not just exhaust. in fact, the transfers are an extrememly critical issue to adress when talking about stroker porting. if you bolt a plate on, it will run as a top-end oriented, but short-circuit (or choked and mis-fed) setup. if you leave stock porting and just run the recessed chambers, it will be more mid-low oriented, really lacking in top-end range. the true potential of a 4mill can only be anywhere close to released with porting. otherwise, you can get walked all over by stock stroke, but ported bikes. Quote
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