pondtunes Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 My old 87 banshee that i've been working on since joining here is in need of some motor work now I do believe. The stud on the right hand jug (front side near the exhaust) has been missing since I got the bike, recently the bike started running like shit and upon closer inspection the rear nut had worked itself loose and I assume i had a massive air leak. Anyhoo I retorqued all the nuts and did a compression test. Left bank is about 97PSI while the right bank is down to 75PSI with the bike running oil seeps out where the jug bolts to the case... Anyhoo im sure that bolt missing and the seal being broken there has something to do with the low compression but as old as this bike is and as sad of shape as shee was in when I got it, I think it's due for some engine work. What I intend to do is purchase the following: New studs for the jugs / case New cylinder gaskets both sides New head gasket A cool head (if i can work that into the budget) New Pistons New Piston Rings New Wrist Pins & Clips New Cylinder Seals New Intake Manifold (the old one has some cracks but I don't think they're leaking just yet.) Did I miss anything? If these things are anything like a car I probably need to do something to the bottom end as well... what do you suggest I do / inspect / look for? Do I need to replace the connecting rod when I do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 I would also like to get a little more umph out of this bike without going to wild, can you set these things up to be stroker motors like you can with a car engine? If so whats the advantage? Drawbacks? I'd like to stay in pump gas, premium is okay id just rather stay away from race gas. Prefer to stick with mostly stock looking, considering a cool head for the better cooling/piece of mind I guess. If I don't need a coolhead I can totally spend that money elsewhere on the engine Also do i need to replace every stud holding the jugs on or just the missing one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braap_a_Banshee Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 to save yourself some money, you could get your stock head milled and rechambered instead of buying a cool head. check out mull engineering. porting will give you some more umph. but if you dont want to go that far. then reeds, and cutting out the airbox and running pods with an aftermarket exhaust system will do wonders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 to save yourself some money, you could get your stock head milled and rechambered instead of buying a cool head. check out mull engineering. porting will give you some more umph. but if you dont want to go that far. then reeds, and cutting out the airbox and running pods with an aftermarket exhaust system will do wonders. Current mods are as follows: FMF Fatties w/ PC2 silencers Airbox removed w pod filters Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braap_a_Banshee Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 k well you are off to a good start. if you are looking for bolt on mods, i would invest in some v force reeds, or boyeson reed petals to fit on your stock cages. and a cool head or milled and rechambered stock one. if you are willing to spend money on porting that would be the ultimate way to go and will be convenient while you have your jugs off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braap_a_Banshee Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 and for the gaskets that you need. you will want to replace all of them to just buy a top end gasket kit. comes with everything you need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12 0 Clock P I M P Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 OK STUD - you only need to replace the stud that is missing.......let me know I may have one for you... TOP END - I think everyone will recommend Wiseco Pistons...you can get a top end kit from a site sponsor for a good deal.....includes pistons, rings, circlips, wrist pin bearings, new rings...everything u need for your top end...... Cool Head - Running cooler is not what u really gain from this.....you get to change the domes at the top of the engine above the pistons.....this increases the compression of the engine giving it a little more power.....a little! It is a good mod....but you dont need to do this.....you can have your stock head machined as well pretty cheap.....and this will do the same to your compression without interchangable domes... STROKER - yes you can install a stroker kit like a car....a 4mm stroker kit is the most feasable.....it gives you 2 mm more of stroke on each side increasing compression and power significantly....This is a lot more costly......it is a whole new crank.....they have both a short rod 110 and long rod 115 option......There are many posts on building these....just do a search POWER - A port job of your cylinders will be a good option especially if you have the engine apart......it is a little pricey as well to do this but worth it....really opens the bike up.....call Brandon @ Wildcard racing or JEFF at F.A.S.T. racing they do excellent work and will have your top end parts! You can get an adjustable timing plate and increase the timing which will get a squeak of power........the cool head with the different domes will increase power......you will need to run race gas at a certain dome size......please search for cool head posts regarding the benefits/disadvantages Check your cylinders to make sure your bore is still within spec before ordering your top end kit!!!!!! YOu can take them to a local shop and just have them mic'd out. Thats all i got for now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted September 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 Yeah, i've dealt with Jeff at F.A.S.T. a lot he's great and I see the gasket kits they've got over there.. I'll give him a shout to see what we can work out on that. So what do i need to check on the bottom end once I get the top end apart? I'm okay with keeping the stock crank if there's nothing wrong with it. I replaced every seal in this motor earlier except the crank seals, is this the proper time to do these seals? I'd prefer my stock head over swapping to a coolhead. I just shot an email off to mull engineering about working my existing head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12 0 Clock P I M P Posted September 27, 2010 Report Share Posted September 27, 2010 You are going to just check for excessive play in the rods.....checking the bearings....listen to make sure it does not growl.....Just check and make sure everything is spinning freely and as smoothly as possible......There is a spec on rod play...i do not know what the tolerances are...but thats it...new top end and back together......DONE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braap_a_Banshee Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 i just recently rebuilt my top end and got my jugs ported. just made sure everything worked ok then put it all back together and let her rip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theeechozen1 Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 12 O clocks got you covered.... I would suggest sending your stock carbs, timing plate & head to a builder to modify. Do you live by a small airport? If so: Recon over there and see if you can buy 100LL out of the pump. Have the timing plate notched to advance it 5 1/2 degrees.... with a modified head and the carbs dialed in it will wake that pig up in a hurry. Theres a builder here in AZ that builds a nice package for Av-Gas with stock modified carbs, head, timing plate (same one Im running), His port, VF3s and T-5s that makes 70hp... Assuming your crank is still solid, you could have it welded up and build a nice reliable motor for a reasonable amount of doah. I'm sure our site sponsors have similar packages, I stripped out a stud on my bike and had to drill it out and drop a heli-coil in... it was a little nerve racking but no issues at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theeechozen1 Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 i just recently rebuilt my top end and got my jugs ported. just made sure everything worked ok then put it all back together and let her rip Braap... Swap those T6s for a set of T5s and you'll pick up 10 horse on top Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pondtunes Posted September 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Braap... Swap those T6s for a set of T5s and you'll pick up 10 horse on top Thanks for the info guys! I'll take it all into consideration! Just out of curiosity what will sending my stock carbs off do? Who works them and what will they do to them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Braap_a_Banshee Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 Braap... Swap those T6s for a set of T5s and you'll pick up 10 horse on top i got this banshee as a hand me down from my brother after i out grew my blaster. im workin on the money to get a set of shearer in frames! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RagunCajun Posted September 28, 2010 Report Share Posted September 28, 2010 (edited) Great post 12 o'clock. Pick up 10 hp by switching t6 to t5 pipes? First I've heard. My bike ran awesome with t6 pipes and they do good with porting. Shears are of course a good drag pipe. IMO it's not how much power a set of pipes make. What's important to me is where it makes power and how. But I'm going off topic here so I'll stop As for stock carbs, they are fine. You can stroke it and run tons of compression and they will work great. IMO leave them along till later down the line. And money you spend on stock carb mods can be used to pick up a set if 28pwk or 30oko. If you go too big of a carb u can sacrifice bottom end. If you decide to get your bike ported down the line, ask the builder what he suggest. They can help you the most. Edited September 28, 2010 by RagunCajun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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