itle problems

[redline2001]

so i have a 1997 yamaha banshee bored .20 over with pro circuit pipes it has been running awsem untill i decided that i wanted to put new needels seats and tors eliminator kit on it the tors eliminator kit came with a new throttle cable, carb caps, and the itle screws with drill bit and tap. ever sence i made these changes my wheeler has been running totally worng, is it possable i need to change my jets? it will start on one kick with NO CHOKE it will run at a high idle untill it worms up then once it is worm it will barely idle at all and smokes alot, it only smokes alot at an idle tho higher rpms it is fine, the machine does not lack power at all, but when idleing my plugs get wet. when i check my plugs it is burning like a coffe brown but they are wet the part that strikes me funniy is this banshee always needed the choke to start when cold and would need it till the engine is warm im thinking jetting or somthing to do with the carbs please help

Edited September 5, 2010 by redline2001

[Larry's Shee]

Did you reset float level , clean carbs after tors removal?

[redline2001]

yes i reset my floats according to the specs in my clymer shop manual i just cant understand why its running like this now after i i changed needels seatch cleaned them with carb cleaner and compressed air then reset my floats according to the clymer manual like i said before no choke to cold start and it idles really high till it gets wormed up, then it barley idles at all this problem really blows my mind thes wheeler always idled good and for a cold start it would need to be choked till the engine was warm. do you think i could need smaller pilot jets

Edited September 5, 2010 by redline2001

[Larry's Shee]

Begining to think it's cause we call it shee that these problems pop up , lol. BTW , welcome to BHQ !! If all you changed was tors elim kit , you don't need to change jets. Go back thru and double check everything . Float level, carbslide sync , slides in correct carb , needle sitting down in slide correctly, choke tobe on. By chance did you have choke plunger out? double check that. Hope this helps .

[redline2001]

i set my floats according to the clymer sevice manual to the .8 of an inch off the gasket surface both one thing i noticed is that it looks like my floats close really fast but i dont see how that could make it rich. one thing i noticed when i took it apart was that one of my carbs does not have that plasic shield in the float bowl around the main jet, as far as i can tell the slide needles are going down far enough , but i think it is running really rich in the low amounts of throttle my mixture screws are almost 2 turns out

Edited September 6, 2010 by redline2001

[rdzbangshee]

i set my floats according to the clymer sevice manual to the .8 of an inch off the gasket surface both one thing i noticed is that it looks like my floats close really fast but i dont see how that could make it rich. one thing i noticed when i took it apart was that one of my carbs does not have that plasic shield in the float bowl around the main jet, as far as i can tell the slide needles are going down far enough , but i think it is running really rich in the low amounts of throttle my mixture screws are almost 2 turns out

you need that plastic shield in there that is why it is running rich , you need to look for that plastic shield.

[redline2001]

it was never there to start with where can i buy one

[redline2001]

and another thing i was thinking is since it has not been in there since i bought it who would it be only effecting my now that i cleaned my carbs and did new neetle and seats and a tors kit, if that was a problem wouldnt it have always done this to me?

[rdzbangshee]

and another thing i was thinking is since it has not been in there since i bought it who would it be only effecting my now that i cleaned my carbs and did new neetle and seats and a tors kit, if that was a problem wouldnt it have always done this to me?

powersedge.com has pictures of the oem parts for the carbs i think thoes plastic things are splash sheilds i have mest with four sets of stock carbs if you put the slides in backwerds it will run like crap . you can go 2 1/2 turn out on the air screws to lean out the idle mixture a hair 3 turn out is the max or raise the needle clip one to lean the mixture witch effects the 1/8 to 3/4 throttle mixture.the choke crosover tube must be on between the carberators .how is the compression

[redline2001]

powersedge.com has pictures of the oem parts for the carbs i think thoes plastic things are splash sheilds i have mest with four sets of stock carbs if you put the slides in backwerds it will run like crap . you can go 2 1/2 turn out on the air screws to lean out the idle mixture a hair 3 turn out is the max or raise the needle clip one to lean the mixture witch effects the 1/8 to 3/4 throttle mixture.the choke crosover tube must be on between the carberators .how is the compression

 

 

how do i know if my slides are in backwards, cant they only go in one way?

[rdzbangshee]

how do i know if my slides are in backwards, cant they only go in one way?

there is a left and a right you have to line them up with the sight glass on the carbs

[lodown]

how do i know if my slides are in backwards, cant they only go in one way?

 

The cutout of the slides face the reeds.

[redline2001]

are there any other vaccume tubes that go between the carbs becides the choke crossover and if so WHERE

[Larry's Shee]

Sorry to say but slide cutaway faces the air cleaner.

[redline2001]

either way i figured out what he ment so i went out tonight and checked my slides in my carbs and surer as crap they where in backwards i switched sides and i started it and it still itled high i backed off all of my cable tension also backed out my idle screws 2 turns it seems to be all better but i need to re sync my slides and fine tune my idle, when i get that finished up i will re post and let you guys know the final verdict thank you guys for all your helpful info