taking the head off tomorrow

[ELKARACING_SHEE]

well guys, i got some domes for free that are brand new, and in return i have to give the guy my 19cc domes back. Anyways, i went out and got a good deal on a torque wrench. My question now is, what should i set my torque wrench on, when i tighten the screws for the head back on. Like what setting. Here is a pic of how my torque wrench looks like >>

 

Any help is greatly appriciated

[madjimmax]

Pull the head, swap domes, take vasoline and lightly coat orings to hold them in place. Put everything back together torque all bolts to 20lbs make sure that you torque them in the proper order. After everything is back together and torqued run the bike through a heat cycle and then retorque to 22lbs and you should be golden.

[ELKARACING_SHEE]

Pull the head, swap domes, take vasoline and lightly coat orings to hold them in place. Put everything back together torque all bolts to 20lbs make sure that you torque them in the proper order. After everything is back together and torqued run the bike through a heat cycle and then retorque to 22lbs and you should be golden.

ohh ok, thanks for the info, but im kinda confused on how i would set my torque wrench on 20lbs, i mean, what does the nm mean?

[madjimmax]

nm I believe means newton meters. Is that torque wrench for inlbs or ftlbs there is a difference. Also just to let you know next time your shopping for a torque wrench, thats one tool that you dont buy the cheapest one out there. Torque wrenches are very precise tools you should buy a good one and dont beat it around or use it as a ratchet or breaker bar.

 

It looks like that thing is for inlbs. so if I'm not mistaken you take 20 and times it by 12 which would be 240 inlbs I believe which should equal 20 ftlbs.

[madjimmax]

Always reset torque wrench to lowest setting when not in use. It will mess it up if you leave it cranked up.

[ELKARACING_SHEE]

oh yeah, i figured it out, its in ft, and lbs, so thats good, it has two sides. the nm, when ever your at 50, and set the nm on 10, it takes away 10 so makes it on the torque of 40lbs. cause everytime i set it on 50 and 10nm, it always drops down to 40, same with 30, i take away 10 and it sets it on 20, and i can set it on 22lbs as well, which is very good, and i figured it out, so its all good now, ill be having it run on pump gas tomorrow hopefully, BTW do i have to change the o-rings in the head? cause i dont have a set, but ill be using the same o-rings if their still good.

[Larry's Shee]

oh yeah, i figured it out, its in ft, and lbs, so thats good, it has two sides. the nm, when ever your at 50, and set the nm on 10, it takes away 10 so makes it on the torque of 40lbs. cause everytime i set it on 50 and 10nm, it always drops down to 40, same with 30, i take away 10 and it sets it on 20, and i can set it on 22lbs as well, which is very good, and i figured it out, so its all good now, ill be having it run on pump gas tomorrow hopefully, BTW do i have to change the o-rings in the head? cause i dont have a set, but ill be using the same o-rings if their still good.

?????????? i really don't understand what you're saying here. There is a lock collar on your wrench , it's the black ring just below the numbers. Unlock, set value , lock ,use. Also torque in stages. Using correct sequence go around at 10 ft-lb, then 15, then 20 ft-lb. Heat cycle or two ,re-torque in sequence. Also other poster was correct that 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lb , therefore 20 ft-lb = 240 in-lb. Newto -meters is the metric scale of torque values. Clymers calls for 28 N-M for head nuts. Hope our info helps .

Edited August 20, 2010 by Larry's Shee

[ELKARACING_SHEE]

?????????? i really don't understand what you're saying here. There is a lock collar on your wrench , it's the black ring just below the numbers. Unlock, set value , lock ,use. Also torque in stages. Using correct sequence go around at 10 ft-lb, then 15, then 20 ft-lb. Heat cycle or two ,re-torque in sequence. Also other poster was correct that 1 ft-lb = 12 in-lb , therefore 20 ft-lb = 240 in-lb. Newto -meters is the metric scale of torque values. Clymers calls for 28 N-M for head nuts. Hope our info helps .

so wait, what i was saying was wrong? i mean it still got down to 22lb and 20lb. What am i doing wrong

[shee2000]

NM: newton meters is a different form of torgue(kinda like metric torgue measurement) u can use either or i no it 20 ft lbs but in newton meters im not sure it will say in the clymers manual thoe

 

http://www.businessdictionary.com/definition/newton-meter-Nm.html

 

http://www.oddparts.com/acsi/defines/torque.htm

 

hope this helps man good luck

[dirtydownunder]

20 ft/lb = 27.1nm

22 ft/lb = 29.8nm

 

as larry said there is a knob at the end of the adjusting handle (loosen the knob adjust torque setting then lock the knob)

 

do it in sequence as big lazza said 10ft-15ft-20ft get it hot and go for a lil brap let it get cool (i let it cool over night) then back one nut off at a time and torque to 22ft/lb.

always tightening the nuts from the middle out.

 

make shaw the head and cylinders are spotless.

 

i like to use new o-rings when ever the head comes off.

[madjimmax]

As long as the orings are not tore or broken you should be fine.Thats one of the advantages of a cool head, you dont need a new gasket every time you remove the head.

[Larry's Shee]

Didn't say you were wrong ,I just didn't understand exactly what you were saying , the minus ten stuff. Also you have a "clicker" type torque wrench , DON'T King Kong it !! When it reaches the desired value it will click and kinda feel like it broke as the handle will move about 1/8 of a turn. Also grip it the same for each nut/bolt. On lower value use I often use just thumb and finger or two for better feel and control. A Clymers is the best "tool" you can have. You do have one don't you?

[madjimmax]

I agree with larry on just using a thumb and finger, with the length of the torque wrench its not going to feel like you've tightened them enough but just trust the torque wrench for it knows more then you. Good luck Bro you should be fine. As larry said you do have a clymers right?

[bbcmudtruck]

I have a cheap torque wrench from orielys and it has messed more stuff up for me than helped me. For the head nuts I just tighten them in sequence snug, then go back over them in sequence till they are all snug again. Fire the bike up and let it get warm, pull the gas tank back off while the motor is still warm and snug them all back down in sequence again. You don't need a ton of pressure to tighten the head down. It doesn't take very much to over tighten the nuts and bust the orings. As mentioned before, use vasoline to help hold the orings in place while you reassemble the head. Good luck.

[ELKARACING_SHEE]

thanks guys, i still dont really get what to really set the torque wrench on, Damn i need one of those electronic ones. Anyways, i will try to use it, because as i adjust the N-m, the big long lod comes up and down, depending on what i move the N-M thing to, if i move it to 10 n-m, on the long rod it says 20lbs with a n-m set to 10. Ill see what i can do. I do have a clymers, but in the clymers, it shows me how to take the stock head off and the torque for the stock head