Anyone else got any ideas?

[midlifecrisis]

Hey AK, Im not really dissing the K&N, I think all 50cc bikes should use them, on asphalt, dry conditions, no dust, with 5 outerwears. LOL! I just found that it seemed to fit really loose with that slide in system, so, thanks to papasmurf, Ive upgraded to a proflow adapter, and dual prodesign foams.

 

OK, 5 minutes was a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much.

 

Im assuming that the wear on the piston came from exactly what you said, (ie the banging around of the pin), or from me fuckin around on the road at the pit, before I got to actually enter them. When it didnt run correctly, I took the carbs apart at the truck, and I think the bike probably swallowed some airborn dirt there. Im assuming that the bearing at this point has been stuck in the pipe, but I hadnt thought of it being magnetized? How would that have happened?

 

The locator pins are all there, and yes the vitos does have it on both sides. Believe me, Ive been thru the parts, Im a very picky guy, and considering I had never rebuilt before, I followed the book, and the advice of the members here to a tee. Each part, as it was disassembled, was thoroughly cleaned, labelled, and put into a rubbermaid, then sealed until reassembly, so thats why I was so puzzled.

 

The bike has run for 5-10 minutes on 20:1, never bringing it above 1/8 throttle, just tweaking it, like the manual said to, then checking the plugs out for colour. Then following the manual to a tee for the break in. The day at the track was supposed to be the first day out after the break in., so me saying 5 minutes of riding, actually meant normal riding, after break in, just up and down the road, it still hasnt seen soil.

[AKheathen]

you ever tote around a tool box for a while, then wonder how your screwdrivers are suddenly magnatized? i guess i won't get into the filter debate again, but drop-in of any kind is known for seal leakage, especially when it starts to get dirty. even the seal in the billet adapter has benn known to leak and need some sealant. you probably really didn't do anything abnormally wrong or neglectfull, and the pipe theory is most likely what happened. the book method of break-in is based on the old coarse hone that is barely used anymore. if you do get the modern cross hatch- the new break-in is simply to run a coupe heat cycless, retorque the head, and then go do some plug chop runs. 'bout the best thing you can do, imho, and use normal mix ratio, too.