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To Cool head or not to cool head?!?


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There's only so much you can cut on a stock head, it would be very hard to cut for very high compression numbers. If tricking out a motor and looking for high compression then definately get a cool head. I've always liked the Mod Quad design, looks badass Alf!

 

Don't forget the benefit of buying parts from site sponsors. Alf is always on the forums and quick to respond to member needs. Other head companies don't help out as much or might require you to leave a voicemail or a message with the bimbo at the front desk.. Sometimes not even get your call returned. Though I didn't buy a little billet cover from Alf, this dude was quick to respond from his Vegas vacation. Gotta luv and appreciate his dedication to the sport!

 

Here's what I have, scored it with and entire Wildcard Racing top end. :)

 

WildcardTopEnd059.jpg

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I had the Trinity head before also. The first set of domes I got didn't even fit in the head, they had to go back. You also have to use the trinity domes with their head. I'd get anyone but theirs.

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I assemble the complete Noss head with spark plugs installed. I hold then entire assembly by the spark plugs and just drop it in place.

 

Climbs got it right, I like to put a little grease on the o rings because it helps them stick in place then i hold the spark plugs and put the head on, it's hella easy.

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There's only so much you can cut on a stock head, it would be very hard to cut for very high compression numbers. If tricking out a motor and looking for high compression then definately get a cool head. I've always liked the Mod Quad design, looks badass Alf!

 

Don't forget the benefit of buying parts from site sponsors. Alf is always on the forums and quick to respond to member needs. Other head companies don't help out as much or might require you to leave a voicemail or a message with the bimbo at the front desk.. Sometimes not even get your call returned. Though I didn't buy a little billet cover from Alf, this dude was quick to respond from his Vegas vacation. Gotta luv and appreciate his dedication to the sport!

 

Here's what I have, scored it with and entire Wildcard Racing top end. :)

 

WildcardTopEnd059.jpg

WOW! Right on dude. thanks. I may as well start spreading the word. Im going to take a few months of work and really hit this hard and focus on my business. Im getting way to stressed on doing it part time. I want to do the best I can and make all you happy and get you what you need and want. Even if Im on Vaca. lol. So with that said, Around the first off next month Ill be full time and available even more than I am already. So hit me up people. Thanks again Climbanyhill. much appreciated.

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I run Vito's Hemi Head 2. DONT BUY IT if you ever plan to do a 4mill stroker with stroker cut domes and do not have access to a lathe. For some reason, they cut the neck of their domes (O/D where the spark plug threads in) down to 1.002-1.000.

 

 

Pro Design, Noss Machine hell everyone runs like 1.008-1.010. Everytime I buy domes I have to modify them....Vito's doesn't make/sell stroker cut domes.

 

I also noticed that when whomever milled this particular head flipped it over for the 2nd op, they didnt get it aligned to the machine PERFECTLY so there is a little step in the through hole where the aboved mention dome slides in.

 

Vito's does, however, cut an oring groove in the neck so when you put the dome in the head, it stays put. No need for a spark plug, but then again everytime I have to buy an oring set its $19 and then another $12 something for shipping. BS!

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Pros:

Increased power

Interchangeability

Looks cool if you're into that kind of thing

Better sealing over a stock head in extreme high hp applications (doesn't seem to be a problem w/ most engines)

 

 

 

Cons:

Power increase is minute over a stock shaved head

Costs 3-5x more than a stock shaved head

Ruins the sleeper look (a con to me at least)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Climbs got it right, I like to put a little grease on the o rings because it helps them stick in place then i hold the spark plugs and put the head on, it's hella easy.

Yup, give those orings a light rub with petrolium jelly/vaseline so the stick and just drop it in!

 

WOW! Right on dude. thanks. I may as well start spreading the word. Im going to take a few months of work and really hit this hard and focus on my business. Im getting way to stressed on doing it part time. I want to do the best I can and make all you happy and get you what you need and want. Even if Im on Vaca. lol. So with that said, Around the first off next month Ill be full time and available even more than I am already. So hit me up people. Thanks again Climbanyhill. much appreciated.

No prob bro.. That's really how it is. Nothing like asking questions and getting answers right away. Gotta love the customer services that comes with good performance parts. Good luck with the biz, I'm sure it will take off without a prob!

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I'll take my Chariot head any day of the week. Less Orings, less to leak...and quality construction.

 

Dave Noss does in fact make a great cool head as well...and he's a helluva nice guy.

 

I just prefer my Chariot head.

 

In all the years of this sport, I've yet to see concrete evidence of a "cool head" of any type lowering the operating temperatures of a motor.

 

The benefits they offer are this:

Orings to seal better than a flat head gasket and the ability to tune/change your motor with replaceable domes.

Once you machine/mill a stock head...that's it. You don't add material to it.

The cool heads you just swap domes to suit your build...be it a trail bike or full out alky dragster.

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1. Orings to seal better than a flat head gasket and the ability to tune/change your motor with replaceable domes.

Once you machine/mill a stock head...that's it. You don't add material to it.

The cool heads you just swap domes to suit your build...be it a trail bike or full out alky dragster.

 

True buuut:

 

I've heard of some high hp alky biulds using the stock head and no leaks. And for the price of new domes orings and shipping you can almost buy another stock head and have it remachined to your build. You'd still be way ahead money wise. Brandon (blowit) with Mull Engineering seems to have a really good head design and I believe it's well under $100.

"Cool head"...Means it LOOKS cool, bout it imo

Edited by SLORYDER
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I would be one of them.

I originally had a stock head cut for my 10 mil cub.

Oringed, no head gasket...just yamabond on both sides to seal the water.

It's still a Pain in the ass.

 

Orings are 20 bucks a set. Unless they're blown, reuse them...

A head is 135 to 155 ish, domes are 65 to 90 bucks a set.

 

A stock head is 25 to 35 bucks or so. Any machinist worth their salt is going to charge 40 to 75 for the work.

You do that twice and you're already near the price of an aftermarket head.

Now...

Keep in mind, you gernade a motor and take out the dome, you can buy new domes and be done.

With a stock head...you're not going to remachine it...so it's a whole new head, re machine it..etc.

 

Like I said, no issues running a stock cut head on a bike done right, you are just very limited to your options after it's cut once, that's all!

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I would be one of them.

I originally had a stock head cut for my 10 mil cub.

Oringed, no head gasket...just yamabond on both sides to seal the water.

It's still a Pain in the ass.

 

Orings are 20 bucks a set. Unless they're blown, reuse them...

A head is 135 to 155 ish, domes are 65 to 90 bucks a set.

 

A stock head is 25 to 35 bucks or so. Any machinist worth their salt is going to charge 40 to 75 for the work.

You do that twice and you're already near the price of an aftermarket head.

Now...

Keep in mind, you gernade a motor and take out the dome, you can buy new domes and be done.

With a stock head...you're not going to remachine it...so it's a whole new head, re machine it..etc.

 

Like I said, no issues running a stock cut head on a bike done right, you are just very limited to your options after it's cut once, that's all!

 

Well said.

 

I just believe that 90%of potential cool head buyers are under the assumption that they willl get a big performance increase with extra cooling that will keep their engine running forever, when the reality is that simply shaving the stock head will yield similar performance as the coolhead. The additional cooling is bs.

2 stock shaved heads- 50 bux for the first, 80 for the second shipping included. 150ish total

2 cool head setups- 300ish total

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I would go on to say just shaving alone will not net the same result as shaving and rechambering the head.

Otherwise, I'm with you 100%.

 

I can tell you I always had seepage issues around the edges with my stocker on my 10 mil cub.

Just a drip here and there...but it was annoying.

 

One thing I gotta admit, the aftermarket heads do look much nicer...:) And you have to remember, some mods are for looks alone with nothing else behind it...so, keep that in mind as well.

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I would go on to say just shaving alone will not net the same result as shaving and rechambering the head.

Otherwise, I'm with you 100%.

 

I can tell you I always had seepage issues around the edges with my stocker on my 10 mil cub.

Just a drip here and there...but it was annoying.

 

One thing I gotta admit, the aftermarket heads do look much nicer...:) And you have to remember, some mods are for looks alone with nothing else behind it...so, keep that in mind as well.

:)

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Some coolheads such as ours force most of the coolant to flow around the exhaust passages which according to builders I have talked to will show an increase in hp. My understanding is that when the exhaust gas is too hot you are robbed of hp and cooling the cylinder around the exhaust outlet is one key to lowering the temp here. Pro design head does not force any coolant around the exhaust passage. I believe the stock head does much more so then Pro design.

Jerry

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