Ieat4strokes Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 Ogden Dirt drags opening day, track was Very loose compared to last year everyone was complaining but here goes: I was running stock gearing, 110 octane, NO alky, 8 inch over arm, no bar, 22 inch zippers and 10 paddle extremes ( I tried both) seems paddles left harder but I lost on big end, zippers were the opposite. I'm getting pro wedges next time out, and ran consistent 4.7s-4.8s...blowing tires off down the track, i really didn't even feel it pull till 1/2-3/4 track and I was on stock tranny fighting shifting all day, did NOT wanna go into 3rd for nothing leaving in second. Plus I was sleeping at the light RT were right around .4-.5s lol I need a tranny bad, I believe with the right tires and a tranny and better RT I wouldve seen 4.4s. What u guys think? Quote
dajogejr Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 Get your traction figured out first. If you were blowing the tires off...go up one tooth on the front. You're leaving in 2nd gear...right? Mess with gearing and air pressure. What kind of 60ft times were you getting? What is your weight? Quote
Ieat4strokes Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Posted April 18, 2010 That track don't do 60ft times I don't think, All they give us is RT, I dunno? But it's all I have near to test n tune. I'm right at 200lbs. Was running around 3psi, but the zippers are like a pro wedge knock off, the paddles are real thin and flimsy and fold over when u launch. The 10 paddles launched harder and felt good, just that on the big end I felt like they slowed me down. Also yes I was leaving in 2nd, they way it was spinning probally couldve left out in 3rd lol. Ima try a 15 tooth, also rear size? 40 or 41? Quote
dajogejr Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 It's hard to tune a bike out of the hole/launch without 60 ft times. That's where your race is won and lost. What gearing are you running? For 300 foot you should only be using 2-5 th gear. You want 5th gear wound out just as you go through the traps. If you're in 6th gear...it takes a lot more motor to pull paddles...6th is like override. I'd go 15/44 on gearing to start. Launch in second...slip the clutch don't dump it...and wind out 5th through the traps. Sooner or later, override and lockup are in your future if you want to be competitive at the track. Quote
Ieat4strokes Posted April 18, 2010 Author Report Posted April 18, 2010 Thanks Dave, Im currently running stock gearing, I will try out 15-44. That works good for a stock cyl 4 mill? It's a full drag port by Jeff and YES I already have a Direct Drive lockout on the bike. Only thing I'm lacking is a tranny, which I already spoke to you about, just gotta get my money right. Been outta work for almost 6 months now. Kinds puts a damper in my future mods. I put her on a diet today cutting off all uneccesary tabs off frame, removing front brakes and rotors and front brake perch and reservoir. Also I'm about to grab me some scooter tires and rims and some Douglas blues for rear to shave some more off, I was running stock rims with stock front tires and zippers on rear. I noticed the stock rims are heavy as shyt compared to my 10 paddles on Douglas rims. Anything else I can take off to shed some weight? Quote
banshee(911) Posted April 18, 2010 Report Posted April 18, 2010 It's hard to tune a bike out of the hole/launch without 60 ft times. That's where your race is won and lost. What gearing are you running? For 300 foot you should only be using 2-5 th gear. You want 5th gear wound out just as you go through the traps. If you're in 6th gear...it takes a lot more motor to pull paddles...6th is like override. I'd go 15/44 on gearing to start. Launch in second...slip the clutch don't dump it...and wind out 5th through the traps. Sooner or later, override and lockup are in your future if you want to be competitive at the track. i thought 15/44 was the same as 14/41 Quote
dajogejr Posted April 19, 2010 Report Posted April 19, 2010 On a ratio chart it is. In my experience...it slows down the crank a little with a bigger front sprocket allowing the wheels to get traction instead of boiling them off... Quote
Ieat4strokes Posted April 19, 2010 Author Report Posted April 19, 2010 for a otherwise TRAIL bike, unaltered at ALL, stock tranny, down to stock rims, with a 4mill and drag pipes tossed in, a 4.7 bad? Quote
dajogejr Posted April 19, 2010 Report Posted April 19, 2010 Absolutely that's a good time. I had a 4 mil cub on gas with inframe Shearers, 35PWKs and a 6 over arm and 10 paddle haulers. Ran 4.7 to 4.9. No wheelie bar...stock style clutch (no lockup, Jeff's clutch kit) and no override. Problem was it wasn't consistent... Stock frame 100%... The problem was shifting, big time. And I'm also 250 lbs... Quote
Ieat4strokes Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Posted April 20, 2010 Well that makes me feel better. I'm looking into a tranny and weightloss program. How many tenths is a tranny worth provided I'm hooking? Ima look into some 12 paddles, drag a arms n lighter rims. Also Jeff told me I need 39s and ditch my 35s. So there on the market as well. Quote
Ieat4strokes Posted April 20, 2010 Author Report Posted April 20, 2010 Ohh and shifting is my prob too. I have to let out of it for it to shift and still ran 4.7s 4.8s..... Shifting got worse throughout the course of the day. Seemed when motor got hotter shifting became worse Quote
dajogejr Posted April 20, 2010 Report Posted April 20, 2010 Depending on your skill...and how well the bike shifts as is...it could be only a tenth, it could be 3 tenths. But the key is you'll be able to shift it every time, not dip out of the power/torque curve...it will feel like 20 hp. 39s will work all day long on a healthy 4 mil. Quote
sleeper06 Posted April 20, 2010 Report Posted April 20, 2010 The overide gained 4tenths in my bike,then I learned to cut the clutch springs down and give and take weight off the lockup,holy shit on asphault my bike 60fts like crazy and runs out the back end nicely Quote
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