Bashee stuck at WOT - killswitch and key didn't work!

[linus186]

I found a few similar posts but wanted to ask this myself. Yesterday I took a few runs up a pretty steep hill. After about the third one I came up and the throttle was stuck wide open. I pulled the clutch and then held the brakes and let the clutch out to kill it. We tapped the carbs and tried to start it again and it fired up and went right to WOT again. This time I was somewhat ready for it but neither the kill switch nor the key stopped the engine - had to dump clutch again to stall it. Took off the air cleaner and found the left side carb slide stuck open. Took the top off and after messing around with it found the cable to be very rough and then found the cable about 1/2 frayed at the 1:2 joint.

 

The last owner disabled the TORS but I'm wondering if it wouldn've even worked in this situation. Any ideas as to why it kept running with the kill switch and key off? I'm assuming maybe the open carb acted like an tear in a boot or something. Not sure about this one. Thanks.

[bbcmudtruck]

Take your carbs completely apart and give them a good bath. Then put a new cable on. When you reassembly it, spray the motor with carb cleaner and listen for a change in idle. That would help you find if you have an air leak. I'm guessing dirty carbs and shitty cable.

[Scotty]

I found a few similar posts but wanted to ask this myself. Yesterday I took a few runs up a pretty steep hill. After about the third one I came up and the throttle was stuck wide open. I pulled the clutch and then held the brakes and let the clutch out to kill it. We tapped the carbs and tried to start it again and it fired up and went right to WOT again. This time I was somewhat ready for it but neither the kill switch nor the key stopped the engine - had to dump clutch again to stall it. Took off the air cleaner and found the left side carb slide stuck open. Took the top off and after messing around with it found the cable to be very rough and then found the cable about 1/2 frayed at the 1:2 joint.

 

The last owner disabled the TORS but I'm wondering if it wouldn've even worked in this situation. Any ideas as to why it kept running with the kill switch and key off? I'm assuming maybe the open carb acted like an tear in a boot or something. Not sure about this one. Thanks.

 

I had the exact same thing happen to me when i messed with my carbs for rejetting for the first time. It turned out i didnt reconnect the crossover tube betwwen the 2 carbs are i was done. I was told this doesnt allow them to pressurize equally which causes the WOT. Worth a look.