linus186

Thanks, I'll get the pipes clean and see how it goes.

Thanks for the help so far. So last night I checked the head for square and it was off so I resurfaced it according to my clymer manual. Now the smoke from the right cylinder is definitely darker than before so I'm assuming there was a coolant leak. It's still smoking more on the right side and now it's shooting an oil spray out when you rev it up. I took the pipe and silencer off and tipped them up and quite a bit of oil poured out so I left them hang to clear out. It did not shoot oil out like this before. Could the potential coolant leak have knocked the compression down enough that it couldn't force the oil out of the pipe? Now that the head seems to be better sealed, does it make sense that the oil is coming out of the right pipe now? What's the next step - drain the pipe and run it and see if it clears up? Thanks.

I thought a leak down test was to check the bottom end - will it test the top end (head gasket) too? I didn't even think to check the pipe so no I didn't dump it out. I sort of doubt its the crank seal as I stated earlier the smoke is the same color and i briefly starte it without trans oil and nothing changed. Also, for syncing the carbs, I switched the carbs and the extra smoke stayed on right side so that rules out the carb.

One more thing, the smoke was never black - it looked either bluish or almost white. I just figured since it was right side only that it must have been the crank seal since I bought it used and expected the worst. How would I test the cooling system for leaks? Would a compression test find a leaky head gasket - that's the only place coolant could get in, correct? The leak down test would check the bottom end and crank seals only, correct? Sorry, new to these things. Most of my other quads are 4 strokes that I haven't had to take apart. Thanks!

Thanks for the replies. The smoke looks either light bluish or white - not exactly sure what color it should be but it's not black. No, we didn't clean out the pipe - that's a great idea - I hope that's it! How should I clean it? I believe they are FMF fatty's and FMF silencers. Thanks!

Hey, I bought a shee that needed a top end. Did the top end and ran good but right side was smoking more than left. Figured it needed crank seals so just got done splitting cases, etc. to put them in. Well, it's still smoking more on the right side. Switched the carbs - right side still smokes more. Switched the reeds - same thing. Drained trans oil and started briefly to see what it would do with no trans oil to suck in - still smoked. I don't think it's the seal. I'm starting to think it might be coolant - how should I check that out? Any other ideas?

I found a few similar posts but wanted to ask this myself. Yesterday I took a few runs up a pretty steep hill. After about the third one I came up and the throttle was stuck wide open. I pulled the clutch and then held the brakes and let the clutch out to kill it. We tapped the carbs and tried to start it again and it fired up and went right to WOT again. This time I was somewhat ready for it but neither the kill switch nor the key stopped the engine - had to dump clutch again to stall it. Took off the air cleaner and found the left side carb slide stuck open. Took the top off and after messing around with it found the cable to be very rough and then found the cable about 1/2 frayed at the 1:2 joint. The last owner disabled the TORS but I'm wondering if it wouldn've even worked in this situation. Any ideas as to why it kept running with the kill switch and key off? I'm assuming maybe the open carb acted like an tear in a boot or something. Not sure about this one. Thanks.

hi, new here and can't find anything on the issue I'm having so I decided to post. I have a 2001 Banshee that a friend and I bought needing a top end. It was off the quad when we bought it. We got a new piston kit and got it bored and put it back together but it won't start. It has Keihin "race only" carbs - I'm not sure of anything about them. Also, it's got upgraded reeds and FMF pipes. The seller said it ran fine but I don't know if we should believe that. Anyway, we got it to run briefly by spraying starter fluid into the carbs. The airbox was broken so it was only open carbs but we just wanted to see if it would fire. It was only run for 2sec this way. We still noticed that the plugs were dry so I covered the carb openings almost completely and it would attempt to run but I didn't want to push it without the airbox. Yesterday we put the new airbox on with a K&N and open lid - just like the broken setup from the seller. We tried to start it but it is still not getting gas to the cylinders. I verified that gas is flowing to each carb. I'm thinking it's a vacuum issue but have no idea what to do next. Could the float level be too low? I'm stuck here. Any ideas are appreciated. Let me know if you need more info. Thanks.