volcrano Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 ok i got a boss style pancake bearing,but it has the 10mm hex.if im holding it in my hand by the hex end,do the washer,bearing,washer go on top there or the other side of the hex.2nd,if it is that way,the hex end will come out of pressure plate and on the other side of the plate it should have the washer,bearing,washer,then pancake body right?also.the threaded adjuster doesnt seem to come out enough to put the locking nut bcak on.do i need a longer or does stock work?the pusher body just goes thru the pressure plate and thats it,since ther isnt the 12mm nut on it to set into the pressure plate right?please help or post pics if im right.i installed it withthe bearings and wahers on the non hex end so its between the pancake body and inner hub nut which i dont think is correct and possibly the reason my adjuster screw is not out enough to put locking nut on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 i believe with mine, the torrington bearing goes agains the inside of the pressure plate, the side that touches the clutches. If i recall correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Bad drawing of the throw out plate but that's how it is done. The washers and bearings are on the inside of the plate. Only the nipple, threaded shaft and nut are on the outside of the plate. The nipple is long enough so you can hold it with a wrench to tighten down the 12mm nut with a separate wrench. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 yup thats how its done! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Bad drawing of the throw out plate but that's how it is done. The washers and bearings are on the inside of the plate. Only the nipple, threaded shaft and nut are on the outside of the plate. The nipple is long enough so you can hold it with a wrench to tighten down the 12mm nut with a separate wrench. kevin,u might not think ur an artist but it worked good enough for me and hopefully tells everybody how its done.good job my friend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted April 6, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 kevin,u might not think ur an artist but it worked good enough for me and hopefully tells everybody how its done.good job my friend! its installed correctly-i have a question.the factory 12mm nut that locks down the adjuster doesnt go on all the way because of the adjustment.its threaded on roughly half of its threads and i did locktite it to prevent it from loosening and falling into the case.is this ok/normal for it not to thread all the way or do i need a thinner nut to put on there.thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
papa_smurf49319 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 im trying to remeber but im pretty sure my pancake came with a new nut on it, and it did thread on all the way. Dont quote me im only 90% sure. Cody Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TF7 Posted April 6, 2010 Report Share Posted April 6, 2010 what in the H E double hockey sticks does a pancake bearing thing do anyways? I see more and more people talking about them Have u ever heard someone say they "welded a ball"??? The pancake bearing pretty much makes this impossible. It's hard on the ball and rod (shit's getting hotttt) when you are sitting there with the clutch pulled in and bringing up the rpm's...like sitting at the line while draggin. I welded a ball in Louisiana 3 years ago when I was making my way up to the lights....SUPER STICKY TRACK....got the pancake from K&T at the track and never once had the problem again!! Man do I love this pancake bearing lol. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KEVSWS6 Posted April 7, 2010 Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 its installed correctly-i have a question.the factory 12mm nut that locks down the adjuster doesnt go on all the way because of the adjustment.its threaded on roughly half of its threads and i did locktite it to prevent it from loosening and falling into the case.is this ok/normal for it not to thread all the way or do i need a thinner nut to put on there.thanks. It should do fine with locktite on it. Your clutch is worn or you need a longer threaded rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted April 7, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2010 It should do fine with locktite on it. Your clutch is worn or you need a longer threaded rod. do u sell the longer rods kev?i know the clutch is good,its a fast clutch with like 15 hours on it,with a magnum billet basket and now a lockout.i noticed i got a little knocking noise down there tho but when i disengage the clutch it stops.could this be i just have it adjusted out to far and the ball and rod are slapping around?i have it adjusted to where my screw on clutch lever is like 2 turns out from all the way in and the clutch engages quick off the bars.i like my clutch being close like that but then that makes for alot of freeplay in the cable.i have like 1/2 inch before i disengage clutch.is it bad to run it like that cuz i hate having it adjusted to where clutch engages like 3/4 way out on bars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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