Honkey101 Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Ok well i have a 94 Shee and the motor locked up on this last week which sucked!!! But anyways Im looking to do a full rebuild (top and bottom) and i was told that since this is the third time the top end went out i have to bore it out? If so I was thinking about getting the 4mill kit going that route and was just wondering what you guys think i should do cause i mainly just ride trails and tracks so i would like to try to make it so it wont over heat and still have a lil more power then i had. All the help would be great cause i dont know where to start and i would love to get it all done before riding season is over again.. Thanks Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00sheerzr Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 it depends how much money you want to spend, ive heard 4mills are the shit for trails with a good trail port, you could also keep stock stroke if your crank is in good shape and just bore and port, on the other hand if your crank is fucked its a good time to do a mill just my opinion, good luck with your choice either way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Yeah well i just know the bottom end has never been touched and figured i would do it all , I found a 4 mill kit online for 800 . But i know i will be spending some money for sure But it should be worth it but i dont know where to start really , when i do all that i prolly should get a new head and domes? bigger carbs? This is my first 2 stroke so im lost .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
00sheerzr Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 if you want to make your money worth wild talk to a site sponsor , they will make you a fast motor that will rip your bars outta your hand and they will make you a setup for your type of riding Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted March 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Site Sponsor? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overrevtricky Posted March 22, 2010 Report Share Posted March 22, 2010 Site Sponsor? Check the sponsor spotlight, has all the guys in there. Working with Alfie's toybox at the moment and he's great! Excellent bang for the buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 So i tore it apart and seems that the bottom end is fine, im going to tear it all apart to clean it out , but my question is that how big should i bore it out and what top end kit should i get? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedSheeRida Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Only bore it over what you need to bore it over. if your at stock bore right now and you want to go 4mill, i believe you would have to bore to 64.5mm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Well i decided to just do the top end for now so i can atleast ride this summer cause the girlfriend decided she wants a new bathroom so there went my plans on the big build.. But right now its a stock bore so would i go .01 or more? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TwistedSheeRida Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 yeah if .010 will clean it up thats fine, I had said 64.5 because i believe with the longrod cranks they only make piston kits for every .020 over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted April 1, 2010 Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Well i decided to just do the top end for now so i can atleast ride this summer cause the girlfriend decided she wants a new bathroom so there went my plans on the big build.. But right now its a stock bore so would i go .01 or more? You should take it to were you are going to have the work done and let them see how much it will take to clean up the cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted April 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2010 Well i found a .01 kit and im a machinist and i have a guy that can do machine work right but if they dont clean up at .01 do i just go to .02 and will that kit work wth my stock rods or do i have to get different rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bansheesandrider Posted April 2, 2010 Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Who ever bores your cylinders better know what they are doing, the ports all have to be chamfered after the cylinders are honed, you need to have the proper cross hatch and finish on them afterwards, etc. I always take my cylinders to a reputable motorcycle/ATV machinist and let them bore it and supply the piston. That way they are bored as much as they need to be to clean up the cylinder walls, the pistons are the right size for the bore and everything has the proper clearances to work correctly. Wiseco pistons are the only piston you should use and they are an oval shaped piston that requires that you know the proper method of measuring them to get the clearances correct. When they come up to operating temperature they are round. Also, most of the 4 mil kits on ebay or where ever use a spacer plate and that is not the best way to build a stroker, you should talk to knowledgeable builder and have them set you up with the proper head, bore job and port job that is optimized for a 4 mil motor. Whatever kit you get needs to match you rods, if they are stock rods it should be a 513 series piston; if it is a long rod, it needs to be a 795 series piston and if it is a long rod stroker, you will probably need a 795 series piston AND head mod to make it work. Remember, it is cheaper to spend money the first time and have it done right; than it is to save a buck the first time and have to do it more than once. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Honkey101 Posted April 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2010 Who ever bores your cylinders better know what they are doing, the ports all have to be chamfered after the cylinders are honed, you need to have the proper cross hatch and finish on them afterwards, etc. I always take my cylinders to a reputable motorcycle/ATV machinist and let them bore it and supply the piston. That way they are bored as much as they need to be to clean up the cylinder walls, the pistons are the right size for the bore and everything has the proper clearances to work correctly. Wiseco pistons are the only piston you should use and they are an oval shaped piston that requires that you know the proper method of measuring them to get the clearances correct. When they come up to operating temperature they are round. Also, most of the 4 mil kits on ebay or where ever use a spacer plate and that is not the best way to build a stroker, you should talk to knowledgeable builder and have them set you up with the proper head, bore job and port job that is optimized for a 4 mil motor. Whatever kit you get needs to match you rods, if they are stock rods it should be a 513 series piston; if it is a long rod, it needs to be a 795 series piston and if it is a long rod stroker, you will probably need a 795 series piston AND head mod to make it work. Remember, it is cheaper to spend money the first time and have it done right; than it is to save a buck the first time and have to do it more than once. Yeah that is true. I dont want to have to do anything more i need to do.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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