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Posted

Hey im new to the site and new to the Banshee world (finally)

 

The OFF / Run switch doesn't work. Runs when its in off position too, Simple as needing a new switch? Can i wire in a toggle switch?

 

Engine oil (not mixture oil) Alittle low on engine oil, what kind of oil to use?

 

Has a K&N with no airbox top. Should I run a prefilter (outter screen) or buy a top piece to the air box?

 

AND.... it has a cheesy worn down aluminum foot shift lever, Should I buy a stock replacement or get a roll design lever

 

Thanks ..... im postin some pics tomorrow. Ive got some exhaust questions in the exhaust forums too

Posted

First off, Welcome to the HQ! It may be as simple as a new switch.You can get them cheap used. I would just get a tether run one wire to a ground and one wire to the orange wire on the coil. As far as the transmission oil, I would drain what is in there and add 2qts of ATF type F. And yes I would def run an outerwear on that k&n filter. And finally, if your not worried about looksi would just buy a stock shift lever, you can get them dirt cheap.

Posted

As far as the Off/Run switch, it might just be a bad ground. Take the switch apart and clean the contacts inside of it and make sure the metal tang that sticks out has good contact with bare metal on the handlebars by twisting the switch slightly as you tighten the screws that hols it to the bars. As far as the transmission oil, yes I would drain what is in it, but no I wouldn't put ATF in it. I would recomend a goos motorcycle tranny oil such as Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506. When I ran ATF and also several other oils in my gearbox, I had problems with it being hard to shift and also fine metallic particle in the oil when I drained it. Guys on here like the ATF because it is cheap and they say to change it more often, but that still doen't provide the protection for your gears and bearings. The last time I split my cases, the gears showed zero wear and I have never lost any bearings or had a clutch ball weld itself to the pushrod, not even on the wife's Banshee. All K&N filters should have an Outerwear on them, as long as your airbox has the ProFlow adapter in it, you don't need the lid unless you are swamp riding. The ProFlow adapter is an aluminum plate that bolts into the airbox for the filter to clamp to, without it you need the lid on the box because the lid is what holds the filter in place when you don't have the adapter. Stock shifters are fine, I run one on my bike, but they have been known to break the weld where the arm is attached to the clamp section. This can be prevented be rewelding it and as you finish your bead, run the beat part way up the valley on the back side of the arm. This prevents it from getting brittle as it cools and then it won't crack.

Posted

Thanks for the welcome and the comments guys. ..... but who said anything about tranny oil? haha i was asking about Engine oil. I read the big article on trans fluid, it was good.

 

Do they make release shut offs for quads? like a jet ski, when you fly off it kills the engine?

 

I bought new brake pads...... Do the calipers push in or spin in??

 

and..... Before i snap my legs off, what are some good inexpensive nerf bars.

 

Cheaper the better .... Im a function, over fashion guy

Posted

Thanks for the welcome and the comments guys. ..... but who said anything about tranny oil? haha i was asking about Engine oil. I read the big article on trans fluid, it was good.

 

Do they make release shut offs for quads? like a jet ski, when you fly off it kills the engine?

 

I bought new brake pads...... Do the calipers push in or spin in??

 

and..... Before i snap my legs off, what are some good inexpensive nerf bars.

 

Cheaper the better .... Im a function, over fashion guy

The only oil in a banshee engine is for the tranny. There is no engine oil...haha, besides the 2 cycle oil you mix with the gas. Yes they make tether kill switches, there mostly universal. I have a prodesign tether, there about $40 new. The calipers just push in. As far as nerfs, i would keep checking the for sale section. I have seen some on here cheap.

Posted

as captain howdie said run atf, it is a bit cheaper and works just fine. Talking to some big name builders on this site and others, all agree atf type f in the tranny is best bet.

 

 

Cody

Posted

The only oil in a banshee engine is for the tranny. There is no engine oil...haha, besides the 2 cycle oil you mix with the gas. Yes they make tether kill switches, there mostly universal. I have a prodesign tether, there about $40 new. The calipers just push in. As far as nerfs, i would keep checking the for sale section. I have seen some on here cheap.

 

hahaha good to know. Whats drain/fill on the trans oil 1.5 qts? Is type f the same as automobile type f?

 

Just fired her up today in AZ (Im from WA) Shee loads up alittle untill about 40% throttle, then cracks open.

 

I think i have to check the elevation differences and go from there. Thanks ALOT for the help guys.

Posted

hahaha good to know. Whats drain/fill on the trans oil 1.5 qts? Is type f the same as automobile type f?

 

Just fired her up today in AZ (Im from WA) Shee loads up alittle untill about 40% throttle, then cracks open.

 

I think i have to check the elevation differences and go from there. Thanks ALOT for the help guys.

I think the manual says to put in 1.6qts but i may be wrong. I was always told to just put 2qts in. And yes ATF type f automobile trans fluid.

Posted

As far as the transmission oil, yes I would drain what is in it, but no I wouldn't put ATF in it. I would recomend a goos motorcycle tranny oil such as Klotz Flex Drive 30, part number KL506. When I ran ATF and also several other oils in my gearbox, I had problems with it being hard to shift and also fine metallic particle in the oil when I drained it. Guys on here like the ATF because it is cheap and they say to change it more often, but that still doen't provide the protection for your gears and bearings.

 

Then why does ATF work so well in automatic transmissions? You don't think there are gears or bearings or clutches in them? :confused:

Posted

Other than having bearings and clutches there are not many similarities between a Banshee transmission and an automotive automatic transmission. Most automatics have bushings not bearings, all the planetary gears in an auto are in constant mesh instead of sliding back and forth and having to line up dogs on the gears. Cars also run a cooler on the trans because if ATF goes above 200 degrees, the life span is cut in half and decreases by half again for every 10 degrees above that. A car trans doesn't see the shock loading because the gears are in constant mesh and it is connected to the engine by a fluid coupling, known as a torque convertor. Banshees have gears sliding back and forth, ball bearings and a manual clutch shocking the trans, and the surface area of Banshee gears is much smaller than auto trans. Plus in a auto trans the planetary gears are much better supported becuase they are mounted in a carrier with 2-6 gears in each carrier and all of that is inside a ring gear instead of being 1 pair of gears mounted on opposing shafts. I know alot of guys run ATF and love it, bit it did not work in my bike and I found something else that did and I have been very happy with it, I have had zero failures with it , my clutch has been in the bike since 1995 and still looked new the last time I was in there to inspect it, and I think the Klotz is worth it for my peace of mind. Back in the 90s I used to ride with JD Racing's employees and they all swore by ATF, but they were continuosly having tranny problems and I was still out riding.

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