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banshee wont start and has brand new topend


armando

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wtf?re-jetting it isnt going to do anything but waste alot of time!!!!!y does he have to move the clip to the center and hold the throttle open?is the needle not gonna move on the clip its at when the throttle is opened??? banghead

very true guy, he need the correct set up thow to at least get it to fire. im guessn the needles have the clips at the top. if it does start and run the thing wont idle with the clips on the top. it wont get fuel. turn air mix screws to 1.5 out. new plugs and if all other thing are working, the engine will be ready for break in !! :shootself::shootself:

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I don't think its a jet or needle issue. If it ran before with the current jetting is should run now with only a rebuild. Make sure your bowls are on the correct carb and as stated check your slides, make sure the chock tube is in, its the black rubber hose that goes between the carbs on the and connects the them. Not the metal tube that goes in your intakes.

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very true guy, he need the correct set up thow to at least get it to fire. im guessn the needles have the clips at the top. if it does start and run the thing wont idle with the clips on the top. it wont get fuel. turn air mix screws to 1.5 out. new plugs and if all other thing are working, the engine will be ready for break in !! :shootself::shootself:

ugh.ok-again,bogus information.your needles have nothing to do with idle at start.it is the pilot system that can change idle but is for air/fuel mix.to get the bike to idle is simple.adjust the damn idle screws or adjust your cable at the throttle box.the throttle slide has to raise slightly to allow air to enter the body to mix with the fuel to rev the engine.thats why idle screws raise the slides from a all the way closed position.so once again-needle clips have nothing to do with it. ;)

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I don't think its a jet or needle issue. If it ran before with the current jetting is should run now with only a rebuild. Make sure your bowls are on the correct carb and as stated check your slides, make sure the chock tube is in, its the black rubber hose that goes between the carbs on the and connects the them. Not the metal tube that goes in your intakes.

has nothing to do with the post but 98 shee ur bike is sweet.im doing the same scheme with plastics and blue frame in a month.very nice :headbang:

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CLEAN YOUR NEEDLE AND SEATS REALLY GOOD!!!!!!!! by what you just described its sounds like its not getting fuel

what do you mean by clean the needles and seats, are you talking about slide in the carb? this is my 1st banshee and this is the 1st time i needed to do something to it besides change tranny oil.

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ugh.ok-again,bogus information.your needles have nothing to do with idle at start.it is the pilot system that can change idle but is for air/fuel mix.to get the bike to idle is simple.adjust the damn idle screws or adjust your cable at the throttle box.the throttle slide has to raise slightly to allow air to enter the body to mix with the fuel to rev the engine.thats why idle screws raise the slides from a all the way closed position.so once again-needle clips have nothing to do with it. ;)

 

I agree^^^^^^^. Pilot jet and air screw control from idle to around 1/4 throttle.

 

has nothing to do with the post but 98 shee ur bike is sweet.im doing the same scheme with plastics and blue frame in a month.very nice :headbang:

 

Thanks bro!

 

 

what do you mean by clean the needles and seats, are you talking about slide in the carb? this is my 1st banshee and this is the 1st time i needed to do something to it besides change tranny oil.

 

Don't worring about the needles they have nothing to do with starting.

 

so just switch the bowls? thats it?

 

 

Could be. One bowl has a small jet in it for the choke. like stated it also has a small round brass thing in the front side of the bowl that is the one for the choke side.

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thanx guys. im going to try every thing and hopefully i runs, its been sitting for a month and its been killing me i couldnt go ride in the snow.

agreed-the float bowl with the brass bb looking deal goes to the carb with the choke pull on it.as for the needle and seat-the needle in the slide has nothing to do with ur problem but there is a deal called"needle and seat"in ur carb.when u take the float bowl off,ull see ur floats.take needle nose pliers to the little silver rod that holsa the plastic float on.put the pliers on the skinny end of the rod and the other half of the plier to the part of the body that holds the float and squeeze to loosen the pin.u can also put a punch or a small screwdriver on the pin and tap it to loosen it.i like the plier idea better cuz ive seen the pin stuck and people break the part of the carb that holds the float on by tapping it.anyway.pull the pin and the float will come off.be careful to no loose the "needle"which is the little metal piece that has the rubber tip at the end.clean the hole that the "needle"goes in.this is where ur fuel enters the carb.if that rubber tip gets stuck in the seat-fuel will not enter the bowl-therefore no start.clean that out,put the float and pin back in andmake sure the pin is tight against the little post it came off of.check this with bowl of bu hooking the gas line to that carb and turn it on.gas should pour everywhere so do it quick.if gas flows ur good.u can check to make sure the seat is clean too by picking up on the float to shut fuel off.so-check the bowls to see if they are on the right carb,and clean the carbs needle and seats and then make sure u have good flow,no kinks and as straight a shot as possible for the fuel line from tank to carb.should fix ur shit bro..not really much else to hold fuel back unless u have no compression which i highly doubt.good luck and keep us posted.

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agreed-the float bowl with the brass bb looking deal goes to the carb with the choke pull on it.as for the needle and seat-the needle in the slide has nothing to do with ur problem but there is a deal called"needle and seat"in ur carb.when u take the float bowl off,ull see ur floats.take needle nose pliers to the little silver rod that holsa the plastic float on.put the pliers on the skinny end of the rod and the other half of the plier to the part of the body that holds the float and squeeze to loosen the pin.u can also put a punch or a small screwdriver on the pin and tap it to loosen it.i like the plier idea better cuz ive seen the pin stuck and people break the part of the carb that holds the float on by tapping it.anyway.pull the pin and the float will come off.be careful to no loose the "needle"which is the little metal piece that has the rubber tip at the end.clean the hole that the "needle"goes in.this is where ur fuel enters the carb.if that rubber tip gets stuck in the seat-fuel will not enter the bowl-therefore no start.clean that out,put the float and pin back in andmake sure the pin is tight against the little post it came off of.check this with bowl of bu hooking the gas line to that carb and turn it on.gas should pour everywhere so do it quick.if gas flows ur good.u can check to make sure the seat is clean too by picking up on the float to shut fuel off.so-check the bowls to see if they are on the right carb,and clean the carbs needle and seats and then make sure u have good flow,no kinks and as straight a shot as possible for the fuel line from tank to carb.should fix ur shit bro..not really much else to hold fuel back unless u have no compression which i highly doubt.good luck and keep us posted.

 

it runnss!!!! thank u, starts 1st kick with the choke pulled but when i push the choke back in, it dies a couple seconds later

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it runnss!!!! thank u, starts 1st kick with the choke pulled but when i push the choke back in, it dies a couple seconds later

leave the choke out for a second before u immediately push it back in.maybe its just still too cold my friend.glad u get her running. :dance:

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