colinwoods84 Posted January 5, 2010 Report Share Posted January 5, 2010 So I just got my first 98 banshee from a friend who probably let it sit for the last two years. The bike fires right up which is nice but it seems like its only running on one cylinder until it hits the power band. I did some adjustments with the air ratio while not knowing what I am doing and got the two running. It still seems like its not running right though. Almost like its all or nothing on the throttle. Now when I rode this thing two years ago it seems to run a lot faster and stronger. I dont know that much about carbs let alone two of them. I read through the jetting and what not but it seems too much to handle right now. If any one has some easy advice on how to get this thing going nice that would be great. Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted January 6, 2010 Report Share Posted January 6, 2010 Read this site http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Pull the carbs Clean the carbs and find out what pilot and main jets your running List all the mods. What elevation your running and temp your having Are the stock carbs and if so do you still have the tors on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 im having a similar issue, dont mean to thread jack but what do the TORS's being removed have to do with jetting and/or having it run right? I also have a bog/hesitation while 1/8-1/2 throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrMeyer Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 Because Tors are junk and will mess with the bike. And if you even come close to water... Watch out!!! I had my bike stick WOT and I had to shut it down. But having the Tors gone will help in the process of jetting. There is a big thing as well. Carb sync'n. Alot of people think they can do it by the eye but they will be way off still. Having the carbs synced with a vac meter will mostly get rid of some of the bog down low. As for 1/8- 1/2 is Needle and pilot air screw. For jetting; people need to remember to work with the main jet first. Then the needle. Then the pilot/air screws. But If you read that site I said to read. It will answer mostly all your questions. There is also a Tread on here that one of the members went and made a video on how to sync the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark M Posted January 7, 2010 Report Share Posted January 7, 2010 great thanks meyer! that answered alot! ... im leaning more towards the carbs no being synced then because i remember the kid saying the left side was coming up halfway then the right would come up. he also told me he fixed it by MAKING SURE BY EYE, they went up together ... so most likely its off then right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinwoods84 Posted January 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Ok, read a lot of this stuff looked online for more, watched some youtube and grabbed the tools. Here is what I've come up with. 1. I dont know what the hell TORS are! 2. I pulled the carbs tried to clean them the best I can which meant removing the float pan and draining to fuel. Yeah I know pretty lame 3. I eye balled it since I dont have the vacume tool. Both cabs seem to be moving at the same time the best my eye can see. So, kicked the bike up and it started real nice even though that was never really an issue. After letting the bike warm up I took it down the street and off I went with the an oh so familiar power. Got about a 1/4 mile down the street and ran into an oh so familiar power failure. Back to just dogging out trying to only run on one cylinder. I am still running stock carbs and im not sure what the jetting is. As far as mods go, there are two things in the carb area that look after market to me. First there is this tube thing that sits behind the main cylinders of the carbs right above in inlets to the main cylinder heads. It says MOOSE on it and is in orange writing. On top of the carbs there are two block things I guess you can call them that have the throttle cable running through them and some other wires which I do not go where to. This also has a screw on it which I was adjusting earlier and believe it to have something to do with the positioning on the throttle. I am living in norfolk VA right now so I am going to assume that the air pressure probably has me around 70 ft above sea level. Thats all I got for now. Thanks for the help and I wish I could be more clear but I really know NOTHING about carbs. All my other toys just seem to run correctly so....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colinwoods84 Posted January 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2010 Ok, read a lot of this stuff looked online for more, watched some youtube and grabbed the tools. Here is what I've come up with. 1. I dont know what the hell TORS are! 2. I pulled the carbs tried to clean them the best I can which meant removing the float pan and draining to fuel. Yeah I know pretty lame 3. I eye balled it since I dont have the vacume tool. Both cabs seem to be moving at the same time the best my eye can see. So, kicked the bike up and it started real nice even though that was never really an issue. After letting the bike warm up I took it down the street and off I went with the an oh so familiar power. Got about a 1/4 mile down the street and ran into an oh so familiar power failure. Back to just dogging out trying to only run on one cylinder. I am still running stock carbs and im not sure what the jetting is. As far as mods go, there are two things in the carb area that look after market to me. First there is this tube thing that sits behind the main cylinders of the carbs right above in inlets to the main cylinder heads. It says MOOSE on it and is in orange writing. On top of the carbs there are two block things I guess you can call them that have the throttle cable running through them and some other wires which I do not go where to. This also has a screw on it which I was adjusting earlier and believe it to have something to do with the positioning on the throttle. I am living in norfolk VA right now so I am going to assume that the air pressure probably has me around 70 ft above sea level. Thats all I got for now. Thanks for the help and I wish I could be more clear but I really know NOTHING about carbs. All my other toys just seem to run correctly so....... Correction, I just used that really cool elevation tool someone posted and where I usually ride is around 32ft. This bike came from wisconsin which I have flown into a local airport where I purchased and if i remember I think the elevation around there was 750 ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volcrano Posted January 10, 2010 Report Share Posted January 10, 2010 (edited) Correction, I just used that really cool elevation tool someone posted and where I usually ride is around 32ft. This bike came from wisconsin which I have flown into a local airport where I purchased and if i remember I think the elevation around there was 750 ft. dude-first off i hope ur not using the old gas in the bike.if stock-get u some 87 octane with 32:1 klotz supertechniplate 2 stroke oil and new plugs.2nd-TORS stands for Throttle OverRide System.that is for if your throttle slide or throttle becomes stuck it should recognize this and go into a "limp mode" or shut down rpms so u can control the bike safely until it can be repaired.sometimes it fails.people remove it cause it can cause alot of headaches.cleaning carbs concerns more than pulling the bowl and shooting shit in there.pull the carbs one at a time off the bike and the bowl-one at a time so u dont mix up bowls or slides-and pull out every jet and needle and seat and clean it!after cleaning put it back together and sync.u can sync the carbs (not perfect but get u in there) by the windows in the carbs.ull notice on the right hand top side of the carbs are a little plastic looking round window.adjust cable and sync by opening throttle till u see dark in the bubble.there is a hole in the slide in the carb and when u open the throttle ull see the hole through the little window.when u see the one hole in the window u should see the other carbs hole in the window in the same spot.if they dont line up adjust accordingly until they do.hope this helped!!!!!!!!!!!!!DO A COMPRESSION TEST!it might have had the dick run off it since the last time u saw it run also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Edited January 10, 2010 by volcrano Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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