FitZBanshEe Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 I did a motor swap on my banshee and it will only start when it's cold..it will roll start and run but it's really boggy and will only idle with the choke on...the carbs have been cleaned and the reeds are good what else could it be???? Quote
FitZBanshEe Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Posted October 19, 2009 Anyone got any ideas?? Quote
theoriginal87 Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 ok first off do you still have the TORS hooked up?? if so u need to remove it! thats probably the root of your problem and when u swapped did you sawp the carbs to? Quote
FitZBanshEe Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Posted October 19, 2009 I kept the old carbs on when I did the swap...I brought it to the shop and they said they cleaned and tuned the carbs and it still has the same problem...the reeds are good the only other thing it could be is it's not getting spark..which it is whn I test it...i'm thinking it's gotta be something with the carbs? Quote
badjetman23 Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 sounds like it could be an air leak mabee u should do a compression test and a leakdown test and start from there Quote
FitZBanshEe Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Posted October 19, 2009 I did a compression test and the compression is around 120 for both cylinders.. and it wasn't losing any compression.. could it be something with the parking brake.. before i blew the engine the parking brake had a problem i would have to push it foward sometimes or it would run weird.. I really don't know Quote
badjetman23 Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 did u do a leakdown test on it and do you still have your tors on there a leakdown is very important i made my own leakdown tester and it is realy easy there is a good how to on here for building and testing Quote
theoriginal87 Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 yeah check all your rubber boots and make sure they dont have any tears or cracks and you might want to do a leakdown test. but the parking break is park of the tors system in other words do you still have the big boxs on top of your carbs and is the little black box under the gas tank still connected? Quote
FitZBanshEe Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Posted October 19, 2009 Yeah they still are on..could that be the cause of it not kick starting and why it won't idle??? The mechanic said my stator might be bad but I don't think thats it.. Quote
Justintoxicated Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) I did a compression test and the compression is around 120 for both cylinders.. and it wasn't losing any compression.. could it be something with the parking brake.. before i blew the engine the parking brake had a problem i would have to push it foward sometimes or it would run weird.. I really don't know Yes get rid of that POS Parking break, it is connected to the TORS system and if the switch inside it is acting up (90% of the time when people mention he TORS system) it's not actually the system but the switch inside the parking brake that trips the system) it will prevent your bike from firing, usualy only one cylinder will kinda work. You can test by unplugging the Switch and the rest of the TORS system, once you verify this ditch the POS and get a parking brake block off and new clutch lever. THe stock one is really bing POS clutch lever anyways. Or if you took the carbs apart maybe you put them together wrong? For replacing the stock POS parking brake I'd go with a Yamaha Factory Racing lever for your best bang for the buck. (Don't mistake what I'm saying for another stock clutch) the factory racing clutch is very nice and adjustable, and sealed if you can find one. Of course ASV is fine too just more pricey and without the guard for dirt n crap Edited October 19, 2009 by Justintoxicated Quote
Rodneya Posted October 19, 2009 Report Posted October 19, 2009 yeah check all your rubber boots and make sure they dont have any tears or cracks and you might want to do a leakdown test. but the parking break is park of the tors system in other words do you still have the big boxs on top of your carbs and is the little black box under the gas tank still connected? The park brake has nothing to do with the TORS. TORS works between the throttle and carbs, while the park brake switch works with the CDI. They are totally separate systems. Quote
robert0762 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 The park brake has nothing to do with the TORS. TORS works between the throttle and carbs, while the park brake switch works with the CDI. They are totally separate systems. Please correct me if I am wrong but I thought the parkink brake rev limiter went through the tors box too. Does It just go to the CDI? Quote
theoriginal87 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Posted October 20, 2009 Please correct me if I am wrong but I thought the parkink brake rev limiter went through the tors box too. Does It just go to the CDI? those were my thoughts... but like he said correct me if im wrong Quote
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