cummings0309 Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I need some gearing advice. I got a 400 cheetah with drag porting and 35pwk carbs on race gas. Dyna teck cdi on the 3rd setting. It is a dune bike with +2 a-arms and a plus 6 swing arm. I am getting more involved with 300 foot sand drags and i think I need to play with the gearing. Right now it is at 14 42. I am 150 pounds. im running 21x12x8 10 paddle extremes. Any advice would be much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firebanshee Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I would go up 1 tooth in the front and see if you can still launch in second gear, you should be able to weighing a buck 50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cummings0309 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 That would give me more top end correct? I was also told to try 14 44. But wouldnt that be more bottom end? I launch in second and finish in 4th but its not wrapped out in 4th. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 If you're going to race 300 feet on flat ground 6 over swingarm is not ideal. Add a few paddles (at your weight, 12 paddle extremes) and gear it 15/43 to start with, leave in second.... Put more carb on it. Do you have a lockup, override, etc? If you just wanna play with 300 foot, I understand. If you want to get more serious about drag racing, override and lockup are the only way to go...(If you already have them great, but you mentioned it's a duner...so, wasn't sure) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cummings0309 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I knew I had the wrong tires. I need to just bite the bullet and get the 22 inch tall tires. You think 12 paddle extremes is the way to go? its already hard to keep the front down with the 10 paddles. i just got a lock up. I havent put it on yet. I had to replace my clutches, basket and cover. It came apart on me and busted my cover and every part of the clutch. I gott a magnum basket and clutches from Jeff at Fast. I went ahead and got the Direct Drive Lock up and cover. I dont have an override though. I hope this doesnt make it hard to shift. I have heard some say that but I also know serveral guys that dont have overrides and run lock outs. Im crossing my fingers. lol. I would like to try a duneable override. You think that would suit my needs? I prolly do 50/50 drag and dune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 It all depends on how much deeper you want to get into drag racing. You need a long, low bike with struts or very stiff shocks for drag racing. You may or may not be able to shift with the lockup... Here's the thing. We cut and sell a lot of trannies. There is NO SUCH THING as a trail override. If you find yourself back loading the trans a lot (letting off the gas and NOT pulling the clutch in) you're going to have problems. If you can get in the habit of pulling the clutch in when you let off the gas...you'll be fine. Of the two or three we've had come back, they were backloaded to hell. And the riders fully admitted to it when asked. You can tell by how they wear, the slider gear and the shaft. I've had a 1-5 N down dunable in my drag bike for 3 years now. It works like a champ, fully inspected over the winter and dropped back in for this year. It shifts like butter.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 I can also tell you I run Jeff's Clutch and Magnum basket. They work, flat out.... You want a long enough arm and enough paddle for the front end to come up....that's when the wheelie bar comes into play. You want smooth. If you're smacking the wheelie bar too hard, you need a longer arm, less paddle, different gearing, etc. And vice versa...if you're sitting and spinning...you need more paddle, gearing, air pressure adjustment, etc.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cummings0309 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 i deffinately want to be able to still dune it. I would like to keep the swing arm and the shocks the same for now. I was just curiuos if i could change tires and gearing when I was going to the drags. Like I said I can start in second and finish in fourth but i shift to fourth and finish before I am wrapped out. Is that right or is it better to have it wrapped out? I am deffinately interested in a duneable override. How much does that run? Do you guys make them? Or where can I find one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajogejr Posted September 3, 2009 Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 YOu should be starting in 2nd and winding out 5th through the traps...shorten up the gearing (larger in the rear) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cummings0309 Posted September 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2009 YOu should be starting in 2nd and winding out 5th through the traps...shorten up the gearing (larger in the rear) coolman I will give that a try. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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