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Posted

Hi, my name is Ritchie and I'm a new member to Banshee HQ and i live in Australia. I have a '99 shee with the usual mods but tame compaired to some of you fella's. My question is to do with lighting upgrades. Iwas planing to use a RS 200W stator till i read some threads about the product, so I followed the advice of some and got a Chariot timing plate.

Witch stator is the most reliable RS, RM or Moose 250w. From your threads it seems luck of the draw if you have one and don't have any dramas. I hope you can help

Ritchie

Posted

Hey Snop, have you ever used an Electrex unit from england? Their price is very competitive. http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/st4350l-updated-lighting-stator-yamaha-yfz350-banshee-atv-electrex-world-limited-9517-0.html It's obviously a high output unit looking at the windings but they don't state a wattage output.

 

I thought they made a dual output unit that was 100w on one side, and 150w on the other. SO you would have to run two regulators on it. Any of you guys thought about having ricky stator just rewind your stock stator. They do that in house in the states. So it doesn't come back as a chinese piece of shit.

Posted

I thought they made a dual output unit that was 100w on one side, and 150w on the other. SO you would have to run two regulators on it. Any of you guys thought about having ricky stator just rewind your stock stator. They do that in house in the states. So it doesn't come back as a chinese piece of shit.

Hmmm, I know that's how moose's 250w stator is and why I'm not going to get it. I e mailed electrex so hopefully we'll get a definite answer. Good to know about in house winding from RS.
Posted

After we went riding last week, everyone I ride with decided to do solstice helmet lights instead of dicking around with the halogens on the bikes. One of them is going to just run a couple handle bar mounts with quick releases and battery packs too. I run a stock stator with a battery now, and its kind of nice not worrying about electrical issues, and always having juice on hand. Last time out I was having some cut out issues on the top end intermittently, so I hope its not a sign of the stator or the pickup going bad. If I redo the floated ground on a new one, I would like to try an aftermarket, but the guys at Ricky offered to wind mine and thats tempting. I carry an extra stocker in my race box, so I dont know what to do.

Posted

Oh I'm definitely planning on doing those led lights. Hopefully I'll be ordering 2 from you soon.

 

If my money tree ever grows, I'll run 2 hid floods on stock location and move the led's up to the bars. But I need the high output stator for running the fuel pump for my efi conversion this winter. Lighthing is not my main concern. I just don't want to have to deal with running 2 regulator/rectifiers to get full output of the stator. I'd like to just buy the RS and be done but I'm not a gambling man...

Posted

Whats the amp draw on the entire efi setup?

Computer pulls ~60 milliamps, injectors pull about ~2 amps and fuel pump pulls ~3-4. So I'm looking at ~70 watt draw from that alone, plus lights.
Posted

You will need at least a 10 amp hour battery like the one I have to run that stuff.

Already have on sitting on the shelf :-). I have everything to do the efi conversion except the microsquirt, wideband 02 sensor, and a good high watt stator. I had a moose 250w that I got a good deal on used but one of the bolts that holds it to the timing plate backed out. Bolt bounced around inside the flywheel and destroyed the stator mad.gif .

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