dtcohen Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 So basically I am a dumbass, I had my cylinders in the back of my bronco and somehow one of the piston skirts got cracked (ported cylinders, thin walls) I took the cylinder to one of my friends and he is going to try to weld the crack, then I am going to have the cylinder bored my friend is a damn good welder and has done some pretty amazing stuff, so we will see how that goes BUT if it doesn't work then I think I am going to try to re-sleeve the cylinders. My question is how can i tell if the sleeves are stock or replacement sleeves? I have access to presses and whatnot so I am pretty sure I could get the sleeves in and out and then just match the ports in the sleeve to what I currently have. Quote
Rodneya Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 Don't think you will have much luck with trying to weld the sleeve. It is not something I would try. Stock sleeves are cast into the cylinders. They need to be bored out and the new sleeves pressed in. Quote
dtcohen Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Posted July 21, 2009 well there is a definite line where the sleeve and the cylinder come together is that what the cast in sleeve looks like? any pics would be awesome Quote
Larry's Shee Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 Can't spoil a rotten egg. I say try the weld. I may be wrong but I think sleeves are cast iron,fyi. Hand grind excess weld before bore. Have to be darn good machinist tho. If that comes out good then I would put in oven at 220*F, (Boiling point of water), let cool slowly, then check for warp(welded area). Just my opinion, worth a try. Let us know how it turns out. Far as resleeving I have no opinion. Quote
slopoke Posted July 21, 2009 Report Posted July 21, 2009 (edited) Can't spoil a rotten egg. I say try the weld. I may be wrong but I think sleeves are cast iron,fyi. Hand grind excess weld before bore. Have to be darn good machinist tho. If that comes out good then I would put in oven at 220*F, (Boiling point of water), let cool slowly, then check for warp(welded area). they make a repair sleve just for a broken skirt. To resleve it has several steps to be done correctly. the cylinder must be heated and the sleve frozen and pressed in. It is not like the sleve you see in the jug. It will be thin. You then have to bore it out because it is smaller than stock bore. by the time all this is done you prob got better than 200 in the cylinder BUT if it is ported it may be worth it. The cylinder is cast and will not take kindly to welding because to weld cast it too has to be heated then welded and brought down to temp slowly and i don't know it the guy who bores it will run his boring rig through it with a weld in it even if you grind it. Don't know but like you say, wouldn't hurt to try. PS I had a jug break a skirt and had the repair sleve put in (had full drag port) and ports blended for about 200.00. that was over a year ago and it has given no problems. Edited July 21, 2009 by slopoke Quote
dtcohen Posted July 21, 2009 Author Report Posted July 21, 2009 My friend is on of the best welders in the state, he has been welding all his life. If anybody can do it, he can. I am sure he will tig weld it, so there won't be any splatter or anything. I will grind down the excess weld then take it to a professional machinist that I know to get it bored Like I told the guy welding it, he can't ruin the sleeve any worse than it already is I will get some pics of the finished product... wish me luck Quote
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