killerbanshee Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 I need a little advice on the tuning of my Banshee. I haven't touched it yet, and am trying to decide whether or not I should. It has been running rich and the plugs are steadily coming up with carbon buildup. I change them every time I ride so this is a persistent condition. It also stumbles just a little through the mid range (seems more to the boggy side than if it was a lean condition). Okay, so I know my compression is low (105 both sides), but I don't want to tear into it for a little while because I still want to ride for a few more weeks. What I'm wondering is if there is anything I can do tuning wise to smooth it out just until I can tear into it. The guy at the dealership told me it probably wasn't getting a good burn because of the compression. I just took it out in front of my house with the airbox lid removed just to see how it ran. It cleaned up the midrange and felt good on top with the bottom end about the same. I ran it wot for a block and then killed it and pulled the plugs. They looked great, light tan just like they're supposed to. I don't want to burn it up though so I'm afraid to run it like this. Any advise...what should I do?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uwenr Posted June 30, 2009 Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 I need a little advice on the tuning of my Banshee. I haven't touched it yet, and am trying to decide whether or not I should. It has been running rich and the plugs are steadily coming up with carbon buildup. I change them every time I ride so this is a persistent condition. It also stumbles just a little through the mid range (seems more to the boggy side than if it was a lean condition). Okay, so I know my compression is low (105 both sides), but I don't want to tear into it for a little while because I still want to ride for a few more weeks. What I'm wondering is if there is anything I can do tuning wise to smooth it out just until I can tear into it. The guy at the dealership told me it probably wasn't getting a good burn because of the compression. I just took it out in front of my house with the airbox lid removed just to see how it ran. It cleaned up the midrange and felt good on top with the bottom end about the same. I ran it wot for a block and then killed it and pulled the plugs. They looked great, light tan just like they're supposed to. I don't want to burn it up though so I'm afraid to run it like this. Any advise...what should I do?? You need to list your mods, carbs and jets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2009 You need to list your mods, carbs and jets. stock, stock, and it's jetted for fmf fattys with powercore 2's has ran good on this setup before Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 I'm looking into rebuilding it, but haven't tore into it. I'm wondering what the chances are of not needing to touch the cylinders. Would it be possible for me to get away with just a set of pistons and rings? What are some things I should look for when tearing into it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 I'm looking into rebuilding it, but haven't tore into it. I'm wondering what the chances are of not needing to touch the cylinders. Would it be possible for me to get away with just a set of pistons and rings? What are some things I should look for when tearing into it? Any advise? How do my comp numbers look? I've been told that's on the low side and I should rebuild, but I've been reading threads on here where several people say that they have been running at 100-105 for years with no problems. My petcock started leaking a little bit a while back (while bike is sitting) I don't think that could have anything to do with my problem, but thought I'd bring it up anyway. Like I say I haven't touched it. I was thinking the carbs were trashed up, but wouldn't that cause a lean condition?? I am getting more of a rich condition with a little carbon buildup on my plugs. It definitely feels a bit boggy off idle too. Sorry for the long posts I'm just trying to get all the info out there so someone might be able to lend a little advice. Also...any good solutions for the leaking petcock..those things are difficult to find I am learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 .............. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac_62 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 If it were my bike... And i got the comp. numbers that u have. I would have the cylinders bored. New pistons, and rings installed... If u were gonna port it then would be the time.. i would also split my cases to ensure my crank and tranny is in good condition. U dont need to split cases but i would want to just to ensure everything lookds good... If ur scared to do the topend urself get a clymer manual and it will walk u through it step by step.. Otherwise We on Hq should be able to help with what is not described in there. Find urself someone to bore ur cylinders and u can do the rest... Trust me its not hard at all.. I dont think u have a carb problem.. and no the petcock wouldnt cause the issue u are having. But low compression would.. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 I'm not afraid to do the top end, but I definitely don't want to do the bottom end right now. So you think I will need to have it bored no matter what?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohiobanshee Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 Pull your carbs and see what size main jet is in it.If it ran better with the lid removed,your jetted rich. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark101180 Posted July 1, 2009 Report Share Posted July 1, 2009 well you could do a few different things here. you dont nesecarlly need to tear it down just yet if you got like 105 in both cylinders i wouldnt be afraid to runn it till ur ready for a rebuild. but on the other hand if you were to tear it down now you will probably be able to get away with just rings. and you dont have to rip the whole motor apart and bore it and all that extra shit b/c of slightly low compression. when ur ready for a rebuild check to make sure the crank has no play if none then dont bother with it. if the cylinder doesnt have any gouges or scuffs you can leave that be also. b/c there is no reason to bore a good sleeve unless you like to waste money and lessen the life of ur parts for no noticeable gain. now with ur bog if you took the lid off and ur coming back with good plugs run it that way. i might be wrong but i think the jets fmf sends with the pipes are to be run without the lid anyways Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 How dark is the porcelin on the plugs supposed to be? Mine were like a real light tan when I checked after running is wot down the road and then killing it. The logical explanation is the jetting being off, but it ran good before and just recently started running like it is now. idk I'm thinking I need to at least take the carbs off to clean them and check what my jetting is, but I'm also thinking why not pull the jug while I'm at it. It did run better with the lid removed, but again the lid has always been on it before. It also didn't really seem to run right like it did when it was running good. I've got plans this weekend so I won't really even be able to mess with it till next week. If my pistons look good could I maybe get away with just rings or should I change the pistons anyway? I would think I'd need a bore at that point. Also before anyone asks I have checked and rechecked my gas I am definitely down to something being wrong with the bike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2009 ............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 Okay so I took it out this weekend because I wanted to ride and I'm gonna start tearing it down this week. It ran about like it has been, stumbling a little through the midrange and being boggy from idle. It is also getting a little harder to start. It used to bust right off on the first kick whether it was cold or not. Now it takes a few kicks to get it started when cold. Hopefully the bearings in the bottom end are good and I won't have to split the cases, but I have a new problem. I got it hot Saturday, not overheating, just hot and trans oil started slowly bubbling up from the clutch shaft on top of the case under the left carb. The one that attaches to the clutch cable and actually disengages the clutch. I can see what looks like just a flat washer at the base of the shaft where it goes into the case that is loose, not extremely loose, just loose enough to turn. Anyway, I was wondering why trans oil would bubble up there when hot and how hard would it be to fix? I am probably gonna put a new clutch on the bike when I do the top end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killerbanshee Posted July 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 I need a little advice on the tuning of my Banshee. I haven't touched it yet, and am trying to decide whether or not I should. It has been running rich and the plugs are steadily coming up with carbon buildup. I change them every time I ride so this is a persistent condition. It also stumbles just a little through the mid range (seems more to the boggy side than if it was a lean condition). Okay, so I know my compression is low (105 both sides), but I don't want to tear into it for a little while because I still want to ride for a few more weeks. What I'm wondering is if there is anything I can do tuning wise to smooth it out just until I can tear into it. The guy at the dealership told me it probably wasn't getting a good burn because of the compression. I just took it out in front of my house with the airbox lid removed just to see how it ran. It cleaned up the midrange and felt good on top with the bottom end about the same. I ran it wot for a block and then killed it and pulled the plugs. They looked great, light tan just like they're supposed to. I don't want to burn it up though so I'm afraid to run it like this. Any advise...what should I do?? I just found out it's called the clutch actuator arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Isaac_62 Posted July 6, 2009 Report Share Posted July 6, 2009 It really sounds like your compression is really low and going fast... SOOO...If it were me i would tear the engine down.. have it bored for a fresh top end... split the cases (due to u heating it up)... inspect the trans, and crank..replace any bad or worn parts.. then install a clutch... make sure your impellar is still in good shape... then put the top end back together (with new pistons and rings)... should solve all ur problems right there... Just my .02 -Isaac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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