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Posted

hey people.. ok this is the senario, around 4-5 months ago we went riding and my mate ride his shee into knee height water and it cut off.. he didnt try start it so we drained the air box and left it as is, wen we got home we cleaned her and fired her up but didnt test ride it.. yesterday we started her and she didnt want to go. we let her warm up (5-10 min) and wen we put in in gear it would just bog like there was not enough fuel gettin in. i think its the TORS so we tryed disconnectin it by takin unplugin it but didnt work..

 

I read correct me if im wrong that if the TORS gets wet it causes the slides or something to get stuck...

 

we are going to order the TORS removal kit but wanna be sure thats its the problem.. :confused:

 

Thanks in advance guys let us know wat u think..

 

1000303lf7.jpg

Posted
could be water in the gas, i would drain the gas out of the tank first :cool:

 

we drained the tank and put fresh gas in before we started it.

Posted

did you unplug the tors controll box, or just the carb wires? did you clean out the carb bowls? clean/dry the air filter? dump the water out of the pipes?

Posted

Water + Banshees = No good

 

Could be a lot of things, but I would probably pull off the carbs and make sure everyhting in there looks good. Could be a lot of things if water got into the carbs. Doesnt sound like electrical or mechanical issues to me, although I'm not looking at the bike. If you unplugged the TORs at the carb tops and it still doesnt run right, then its not a TORs problem.

 

Also, check the parking brake switch thing too as the above psoter said. But I thought that was just a safety that limits the revs if you forget to take off the parking brake.

Posted
Unplug the parking brake.

 

I agree check the parking brake.

Knee high water should not have caused a problem though.

 

Super clean Banshee. Looks like stock tires too. How often do you ride her.

Posted
Water + Banshees = No good

 

Could be a lot of things, but I would probably pull off the carbs and make sure everyhting in there looks good. Could be a lot of things if water got into the carbs. Doesnt sound like electrical or mechanical issues to me, although I'm not looking at the bike. If you unplugged the TORs at the carb tops and it still doesnt run right, then its not a TORs problem.

 

Also, check the parking brake switch thing too as the above psoter said. But I thought that was just a safety that limits the revs if you forget to take off the parking brake.

actually, unplugging the carb switches will make the controll box think that the slides are stuck. the switches are closed at idle only, so, unpluging them makes it think they never touch idle. what will happen, is that it will not idle, but run as long as you are touching the throttle. if it idles, and revs, but bogs under a load, then it's not the tors. if it will only rev to 2300rpm, then it's the e-brake switch on the clutch lever.

regardless, the removal kit will more than pay for it'self by saving your intakes from cracking from the extra weight. plus, it makes it 100x easier to work on the carbs and such :thumbsup:

Posted (edited)
actually, unplugging the carb switches will make the controll box think that the slides are stuck. the switches are closed at idle only, so, unpluging them makes it think they never touch idle. what will happen, is that it will not idle, but run as long as you are touching the throttle. if it idles, and revs, but bogs under a load, then it's not the tors. if it will only rev to 2300rpm, then it's the e-brake switch on the clutch lever.

regardless, the removal kit will more than pay for it'self by saving your intakes from cracking from the extra weight. plus, it makes it 100x easier to work on the carbs and such :thumbsup:

 

Hmmm. I thought the TORS switches, like all of the other switches on the bike, except for the key, are normally open, which means they finction fine as long as the circuit is broken. I could be wrong though. I know before I did away with my TORS, that when I had TORS issues that unplugging the carb tops used to make the bike run fine because it essentially turns the TORS system off.

 

Edit: And ohh yeah, the removal kit is deinately a good idea regardless, I just don't think it will fix your current issues.

Edited by LiftdT4R
Posted (edited)

thanks for all the replys.. ok the park brake was already disconnected but im not sure if the electrics side to it is..

 

if it was not disconnected could this be the problem??? but wen the shee was on idle it would rev well over 2000rpm as soon in gear it would bog..

 

hope it helps

 

off the topic my shee has stock tyres and i think it lacks in handling compared to my mates one which has kenda dominators would it be the tyres?? if yes which brand tryes should i get for max performance.. i mainly ride trail, dirt, gravel , and road

thanks again guys

 

1000303lf7.jpg

Edited by jack350
Posted
Hmmm. I thought the TORS switches, like all of the other switches on the bike, except for the key, are normally open, which means they finction fine as long as the circuit is broken. I could be wrong though. I know before I did away with my TORS, that when I had TORS issues that unplugging the carb tops used to make the bike run fine because it essentially turns the TORS system off.

 

Edit: And ohh yeah, the removal kit is deinately a good idea regardless, I just don't think it will fix your current issues.

nah, the tors box must always see ground through either the carb or throttle swithes, but if you unplug the box, then it can't ground the kill wire. (black/white)

 

 

 

on the handling, tires will make a difference, but also, rider weight, and the shock adjustments will make a difference, too. all 3 have preload adjustments(spring tension), but the rear has both rebound and compression adjustments too.

most go with razor, or razor II for your aplication, so that's what i'ma suggest, but do a search, it's been posted in repairs and mods, as well as general descussion, and product reviews several times. i, personally run the kenda bear klaws, but get them in some mud and snow as well, and don't mind the mass of the tire. (~20# each)

 

definately doesn't sound like e-brake or tors. sounds like you just need to rip things apart, and clean 'till you find the problem. all the things already mentioned, plus the flywheel/stator.

 

on my own side note, i happen to have the seat cover and grips to match the bike in the pic exactly. ended up going a different route on my colors, and decided not to use the design. interested?

Posted
nah, the tors box must always see ground through either the carb or throttle swithes, but if you unplug the box, then it can't ground the kill wire. (black/white)

 

 

 

on the handling, tires will make a difference, but also, rider weight, and the shock adjustments will make a difference, too. all 3 have preload adjustments(spring tension), but the rear has both rebound and compression adjustments too.

most go with razor, or razor II for your aplication, so that's what i'ma suggest, but do a search, it's been posted in repairs and mods, as well as general descussion, and product reviews several times. i, personally run the kenda bear klaws, but get them in some mud and snow as well, and don't mind the mass of the tire. (~20# each)

 

definately doesn't sound like e-brake or tors. sounds like you just need to rip things apart, and clean 'till you find the problem. all the things already mentioned, plus the flywheel/stator.

 

on my own side note, i happen to have the seat cover and grips to match the bike in the pic exactly. ended up going a different route on my colors, and decided not to use the design. interested?

 

 

thanks for all the info and the design offer but i just bought new handle bars and oury grips... thanks anyway

 

i will be stripping it down and cleaning things and go from there..

 

cheers

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