Mad Pugger Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Hi guys, just registered with the Forum and thought I would say hi before I go and troll through the threads looking for answers! I have never thought of using forums until I got an Audi S2, the S2forum has given me so much help and saved (as well as cost!) me so much money its untrue, so hopefully this place will do the same! I am Mike, I live in Aberdeen - Scotland. I have a '92 Banshee that I have had from new which I have recently spent a lot of time fixing up. New blue plastics, all new bushes and bearings, seals and pistons/rings etc. It wouldn't start after the rebuild, the spark was VERY weak so I replaced the coil. Now it will only start if it is pulled when cold, although it will start if you catch it first time when hot or even if it has been sat for a few days it will start first kick. But if you don't get the throttle opened just right first kick, no chance! Thats one issue - any clues? It also misfires when cold (I figure probably the carbs are not set right) The lights have also stopped working I think since the stator was checked when it was rebuilt. It was a while ago now but I am sure it was the same time. Likely causes? I also own a '92 still in White/Turquoise which I found on ebay. It runs great but a mate broke the chain the other week! Sadly I also have an (I think) LT500 - on the plus side it cost next to nothing! Sorry I was meant to be introducing myself, not my problems! Anyway, any help greatly appreciated. Thanks Mike Quote
dragbanshee98 Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 welcome to the hq man :beer: you came to the right place to get all the info you could ever need on a banshee... cant really help ya with ur problem, give it about an hour someone will chime in with an answer Quote
R. Rollins Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 (edited) Hello; Welcome to the HQ and we need to know what all you have to work with as far as bike tools. Do you have a manual? Do you have a carb sync tool? If not then there are few things to eliminate to get you started. Give her a really good cleaning and scrubbing before you get started. That way you will work on a clean machine. Next : since you have back firing problems and weak spark you may have two problems. One may be stater related as you think and the other may be carb problems. lets first eliminate the spark problem. You can remove the left side stater cover and check to see if it has had water and coorosion under the plate and eliminate corrosive related problems. Ensure that the flywheel key is in place and that the flywheel center bolt is still tight. Replace the cover and check all the wiring on teh chassis for evidence of grounding problems and places that have possibly rubbed through. Get a volt meter and check all the wires by unplugging the harness and checking for continuity. Double check theoil assembly for cracked wires and loose plug caps that may weaken the spark discharge to the plugs. Check theround wire to the coil and make sure that it had a great positive ground without painted frame getting in the way of a good solid ground to the chassis. Finally, remove the carbs taking note of exactly which carb top goes to which carb and, Then after taking them apart clean them thoroughly with a small parts brush. Using small strands of wire you can strip out a piece of spare copper wire you have and use one strand to poke a small strand of it through the jets and orifices to ensure that all orifices are clean. There are tiny holes on the jets and brass bristled toothbrush parts brush to scrub the carb body with carb cleaner. (note: you may want to soak the carbs overnight without any rubber parts on any pieces because that cleaner is very corrosive and will eat the rubber goods if left on.) Next carefully put the carbs back together and assemble them back onto the manifolds boots. When you put the carb tops back on then use the screw on top to adjust them so that they lift the carb sliders at the exact instant. (this is a visual reference for carb sync). Snug everything back up and replace the airbox. Clean the spark plugs and attempt to start it. This should eliminate a lot of problems you could have as you mention. The rest you will need to adjust the carbs air fuel mixture and idle speeds exactly the same as the other. After doing all of this then you can get back to us and tell the symptoms if any. In the videos section on the HQ, there is a section on carb adjustment. Also look up "plug chop" Ray :happy: Edited May 4, 2009 by R. Rollins Quote
Mad Pugger Posted May 4, 2009 Author Report Posted May 4, 2009 Hello; Welcome to the HQ and we need to know what all you have to work with as far as bike tools. Do you have a manual? Do you have a carb sync tool? If not then there are few things to eliminate to get you started. Give her a really good cleaning and scrubbing before you get started. That way you will work on a clean machine. Next : since you have back firing problems and weak spark you may have two problems. One may be stater related as you think and the other may be carb problems. lets first eliminate the spark problem. You can remove the left side stater cover and check to see if it has had water and coorosion under the plate and eliminate corrosive related problems. Ensure that the flywheel key is in place and that the flywheel center bolt is still tight. Replace the cover and check all the wiring on teh chassis for evidence of grounding problems and places that have possibly rubbed through. Get a volt meter and check all the wires by unplugging the harness and checking for continuity. Double check theoil assembly for cracked wires and loose plug caps that may weaken the spark discharge to the plugs. Check theround wire to the coil and make sure that it had a great positive ground without painted frame getting in the way of a good solid ground to the chassis. Finally, remove the carbs taking note of exactly which carb top goes to which carb and, Then after taking them apart clean them thoroughly with a small parts brush. Using small strands of wire you can strip out a piece of spare copper wire you have and use one strand to poke a small strand of it through the jets and orifices to ensure that all orifices are clean. There are tiny holes on the jets and brass bristled toothbrush parts brush to scrub the carb body with carb cleaner. (note: you may want to soak the carbs overnight without any rubber parts on any pieces because that cleaner is very corrosive and will eat the rubber goods if left on.) Next carefully put the carbs back together and assemble them back onto the manifolds boots. When you put the carb tops back on then use the screw on top to adjust them so that they lift the carb sliders at the exact instant. (this is a visual reference for carb sync). Snug everything back up and replace the airbox. Clean the spark plugs and attempt to start it. This should eliminate a lot of problems you could have as you mention. The rest you will need to adjust the carbs air fuel mixture and idle speeds exactly the same as the other. After doing all of this then you can get back to us and tell the symptoms if any. In the videos section on the HQ, there is a section on carb adjustment. Also look up "plug chop" Ray :happy: Thanks for the welcom guys! OK, I have a manual yeah. But not a carb sync tool. I have done all the things mentioned, pretty much in that order! I have even spent hours cleaning each plug and socket on the loom to ensure good contacts. The carbs have been stipped and cleaned and are all good although need set up with regards idle and mixture i guess. As I am more used to car mechanics I dont really know much about setting up the carbs on a 2 stroke. When I say the spark is weak, I seem to remeber it being pretty weak from new, maybe I am just comparing it to a car unfairly. I have also started a thread in the repairs section (not sure how to link to it) with the problem. This may sound like it is my problem, but it happened way afterwards! I am in need of a new choke pin/needle (the brass? pin that the choke handle is on) as it snapped recently which makes starting even harder now! Any idea where to get one? Thanks again Mike Quote
R. Rollins Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Try "Babbits" They sell all over the world and you can look online to see the blow up diagrams and can see if they have it instantly instead of waiting for the dream list to be reviewed by some guy and then wait for him to e-mail you back on it. The video section here can help you alot also there is "nitro Tate" He has done a Banshee rebuild video that has sections of video on Carbs and things like the Plug chop etc... Its a really neat video. Order the carb sync tool like the one shown on the HQ videos Carb section from E bay for about 35 bucks. Good luck. Thanks for the welcom guys! OK, I have a manual yeah. But not a carb sync tool. I have done all the things mentioned, pretty much in that order! I have even spent hours cleaning each plug and socket on the loom to ensure good contacts. The carbs have been stipped and cleaned and are all good although need set up with regards idle and mixture i guess. As I am more used to car mechanics I dont really know much about setting up the carbs on a 2 stroke. When I say the spark is weak, I seem to remeber it being pretty weak from new, maybe I am just comparing it to a car unfairly. I have also started a thread in the repairs section (not sure how to link to it) with the problem. This may sound like it is my problem, but it happened way afterwards! I am in need of a new choke pin/needle (the brass? pin that the choke handle is on) as it snapped recently which makes starting even harder now! Any idea where to get one? Thanks again Mike Quote
MarineNYC Posted May 4, 2009 Report Posted May 4, 2009 Welcome bro. Post some pics of your beast. Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.