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case cracked :(


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so yesterday me and a friend were riding in a quarry and i was on my shee while he was on a little 110 dirt bike. we were ripping through some hoops as i think he called them, and i began to jump and skip over top untill i suddenly lost power. got on my clutch as soon as i felt the transaction and turn off my bike to inspect what had happened. still in disbelief i watch my banshee bleed to death and leak all of its engine oil into the sand, and i started scratching my head. the chain must of whiped off and crack my case, but its confusing how the chain even made contact. normaly youd think the chain would whip the side of the case nearest the front sprocket, but the case cracked right under the shifting rod, on the under side of the bike? i dont see how my chain had any contact to that part of the bike but whats done is done and now i need to rebuild!!!

 

i have engine expirence but ive never ripped my banshee engine tottaly apart...... this should be fun, ive been on a research binge trying to find all the information on engine rebuilds and repairs and hope to never have to do this twice. seeing as how i broke the bottom case, i have to tare the whole engine apart and theres no easy answer or swap i can do for repairs and i wanna do all engine mods i want at once while i have the case split. really i just wanna upgrade to a 4mm crack and mostlikely replace my pistions. my shes a 99 and has never been rebuild or ported so i know i can squeeze a few more hp out of her and i have a feeling im going to be either shocked how clean my jugs are or how stupid i am ive been ridding on a bad set of cylinders.

 

the bike ran great before i killed her, so i think the jugs sleeves are atleast ok but my biggest thing is i really wanna upgrade to a 4mm crank. ive herd upgrading your crank size means shit if you dont have the porting to go along with it. so i looked into porting along with buying a crank pistons and ect and came up with this number, $1000. thats about the cost of everything needed to do a full 4mm crank setup on my stock jugs.

 

now i look on ebay and see that cub kits cost only $1,475.00 and it comes with crank gaskets and ect. i mean im already dropping a g either way into the dam thing isnt the extra 475 worth it.

 

well i guess my question is what would you do, could i get the 4mm crank and pistons installed and hold off porting the jugs? or should i get the cub kit and screw having my stock jugs ported?? i know most people will say get the cubs! but hey i wanted to do this as cheaply and cost effective as possible and if i can gain a few hp by just adding a crank and replacing the pistons im game. i just dont think porting a stock set of jugs is a cost effective mod, seeing as the cub kit is just alittle bit more money but will have crazy power unported i see this being the better way to go.

 

for those who skiped the first couple lines and just wanna get to the point heres my question. can i pull off not porting my shee with a 4mm crank but make a few more hp? toss some ideas at me, just dont be that guy who says the most expensive route to take because you dont have the money to fulfill your banshee engine dreams.

Edited by NickisGod
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wow that sucks that your bike is down :down: i would say go the 4 mill route... you can always port later and get even more power out of the stock juggs... 4 mill will make a huge difference over what you have now, also may want to consider a slightly bigger bore than what you have?!?! idk what you have now for a bore... unless you will be doing alot of duning, or dragging i do not see the need for the cub, but more power is always better :evil:

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ah! nice i didnt wanna do the porting because that seemed like a bad investment when i yet to have a running bike. im going to buy this kit

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...T&viewitem=

 

im thinking about a bore job, but i think i can get that done locally and dont see how anyone one who owns a ligit machine shop can fuck up a bore. what will my cc be if i have the 4mm crank with a .020 over? also what about the 4mm spacing plate? i have pro design coolheads, i herd most people just use the right domes and there off and running. correct me if im wrong :/

Edited by NickisGod
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That is Inland ATV.

That kit comes with a 66mm piston, which is .080 over, not .020.

Buy the kit, ditch the spacer, get cut domes and spend a couple hundred bucks to get the porting matched to a 4 mil crank.

You're gonna end up spending an additional 500 bucks or so for domes and matched porting...

 

The bike will be night and day difference, but the crank alone won't make much difference, porting to match the crank, and porting in general....will.

 

What about the cases. I might have skimmed over it...but are you going to get them repaired, buy a used set, etc?

 

To answer your other question, 66 bore on a 58 stroke would be a 396 motor.

A .020 over piston (64.50mm) bore to a 58 stroke would be about 380 ccs.

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man you know your shit. cool. well i guess im going to go agianst your advice and just get the crank, because porting will cost me too much and take to long, i wanna ride before summer comes and engine tare down and brake in will take me atlease a month. you be surpirsed how hard it is to make 1000 dollars when you dont have a job, and live on your own. my banshee has came together on dreams and i have yet to have a job

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I understand...it's easy for me to spend your money...:)

With the spacer plate, crank and fresh pistons it will be noticeably stronger, but the icing on the cake will be porting...porting to match at that.

 

Inland will give you pistons to whatever size you need. If your motor only needed to be .020, you'd be wasting a LOT of bores just to make .080 over pistons work... from .020 to .080 you really won't notice a difference in power...it's only a handful or so of cc's.

 

Good luck to ya... call Inland up first to make sure they have the smaller pistons in stock (I'm about 99.9% certain they do...)

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IMO.

Don't buy the 4mil crank if you don't plan on porting the jugs.

The port timings wont be correct fot the crank without porting and you

wont gain anything from the change. Also, as Dave said, it is better to

get domes that are cut for the 4mil (no spacer at the base).

 

I run a 4mil crank on ported stock jugs. I feel like it was worth the money.

I dont have the money for cubs. If I did I would have prolly spent it upgrading

the suspension anyway and still built with the stock jugs.

I am only .020 over now and still have room for a few more rebuilds.

 

Porting the jugs may have been a waste of time and money if I was at +.040 or bigger

on the bore because there isnt alot of rebuilds left in the cyinders. In that case I may

have looked into that cub setup.

 

And BTW, if you do go with the 4mil you have to buy pistons for the 4mil as well.

They are 795 series from Wiseco.

 

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