Hey Guys I Need Help Bad

[Banshee Boy69]

Hey, I'm kinda new to the Banshee and this forum but i need help bad and i've searched all over the net trying to find my problem i bought a 2003 Banshee and it ran excelent. I took the motor off and painted the frame , put the motor back on and now it wont run right. the motor set for maybe a month before i put it back on the frame. I've done everything and i cant seem to find the problem. it starts easy but when i go to rev it up it wont rev, it acts like it's flooding. I know it's not my p brake switch or my TORS cause it has had ALL the park brake stuff removed and I unpluged my TORS and my TORS is working fine. i bought new plugs syncronized my carbs to the best of my ability and it still won't run right. it smokes heavily but if i turn my gas off and let it run for a bit and let it get low on gas it will rev up fine but like all 2 strokes it also idles high at that point too.

with the gas turned on the idle is slower too but sometimes when i first start it it will idle a little higher then drop down till it dies. i never took the carbs apart they are the same as they were when i first took the banshee apart.

please help im puzzled. im a good 4 wheeler mechanic but this has got me stumped

[rubberneck]

Just a couple of things come to mind. If you painted the frame, you may not be getting a good ground from motor to frame. If it is indeed carbeurator, perhaps you have a sticking float allowing bike to flood. Pull carbs apart and clean thoroughly

[Banshee Boy69]

I cleaned the carbs and sanded the frame ground points

gas isn't over flowing the bowls either

Edited February 16, 2009 by Banshee Boy69

[sleeper06]

Its hard to say without having my hands on it are u close to Long island? If not check spark issues if u say carbs are clean,make sure tors is removed properly,make sure parking break switch isnt activated even though u checked it before.Check pick-up coil gap(.020),if u took fly wheel off to do timing mod make sure key is in the rite spot,make sure plug caps are good,If u have an ohm meter u can check your electrical components resistance.These are all basics but it could be something like slides are in wrong sides of carburaters,forgot choke tube between carbs, the list goes on,jetting(if weather is diffrent from when it last ran)

did u remove the air box lid or anything like that.The list goes on We need more info from you and just cause it ran before doesnt mean shit isnt bad now. Its happened to me plenty.Let me know if I can help ill be home for most of the day and wiil check u later

[Male Supremacy]

I cleaned the carbs and sanded the frame ground points

gas isn't over flowing the bowls either

 

 

Take the motor back out and sand/grind the paint off. That is obviously what caused this. :biggrin:

 

I can't think of anything else right off the bat. It's does sound like a fuel delivery prob tho.

[Banshee Boy69]

I never had the flywheel off or ne thing, my choke tube is hooked up, everything is the same as it was before i took it off. I did sand the frame where everything bolted on TORS hasn't been removed but i know it's not the problem cuz you can unhook it and it won't rev at all when you unhook it.

it revs a little but it won't open the powerband and won't rev like it should. i've ruled almost everything i know of out. everything to do with the Pbrake has been removed new clutch perch, block off for the rear caliper. I thank you guys for the help because I really need it bad.

[AKheathen]

I never had the flywheel off or ne thing, my choke tube is hooked up, everything is the same as it was before i took it off. I did sand the frame where everything bolted on TORS hasn't been removed but i know it's not the problem cuz you can unhook it and it won't rev at all when you unhook it.

it revs a little but it won't open the powerband and won't rev like it should. i've ruled almost everything i know of out. everything to do with the Pbrake has been removed new clutch perch, block off for the rear caliper. I thank you guys for the help because I really need it bad.

when you cleaned your carbs, did you noticed if both of the bowls had the little diagonal tubes in the bottom. some came without them, causing the fuel to fill the crankcase when the float needle fails. if you turn off the fuel, and the problem goes away, untill the bowls go dry, then there's the problem. check that your float needles are not hardened, the spring in the needle works, and the floats are adjusted corectly. i believe it was 21-22mm from gasket surface(no gasket) to the top of the float, looking at the carbs upside-down

[sleeper06]

Your saying you can unhook tors and it doesnt rev that sounds wrong. If you unhook tors the bike should rev. Your unhooking the little black box rite?

I had a problem similar and it was plug caps thats why i told u to check resistance on electrical,you will need an ohm meter

[Banshee Boy69]

Your saying you can unhook tors and it doesnt rev that sounds wrong. If you unhook tors the bike should rev. Your unhooking the little black box rite?

no, i followed the wires down from the handlebar and unplugged a connector just to see if the problem would changge.. it would idle but as soon as i give it gas it shuts off. I checked my floats and they are adjusted right.

It will start easy but wont run good at all, not at idle or revving. like i said, i can turn my gas off and it will rev up.

I have a vacuum line lose and i don't know where it goes. 1 comes out where the water pump is and T's with the 1 coming out the back of the crankcase, idk where it goes after it T's off

[AKheathen]

no, i followed the wires down from the handlebar and unplugged a connector just to see if the problem would changge.. it would idle but as soon as i give it gas it shuts off. I checked my floats and they are adjusted right.

It will start easy but wont run good at all, not at idle or revving. like i said, i can turn my gas off and it will rev up.

I have a vacuum line lose and i don't know where it goes. 1 comes out where the water pump is and T's with the 1 coming out the back of the crankcase, idk where it goes after it T's off

that's just the tranny breathers.

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

I didnt read all the post so i dont know if it was covered but switch the carb barrels. if they are backwards what you described will happen. you want the flat side of the barrel towards the head and the angle towards the filters .

 

[Banshee Boy69]

that's just the tranny breathers.

that's what i thought and i didn't figure it would hurt n e thing. I unhooked my tors box just to be sure and it didn't help. it just acts like it's runnin too rich, kinda like a 2 stroke acts when it's cold it won't open up. but my motor is built a little and it has been tuned by a pro at Bubs Cycle so i kow the jets aren't the problem.

[Banshee Boy69]

that's what i thought and i didn't figure it would hurt n e thing. I unhooked my tors box just to be sure and it didn't help. it just acts like it's runnin too rich, kinda like a 2 stroke acts when it's cold it won't open up. but my motor is built a little and it has been tuned by a pro at Bubs Cycle so i kow the jets aren't the problem.

the slide being backwards is my problem but when i go to turn them around they won't go in all the way what is wrong?. thanks guys a lot i really appreciate everything

[xXBlessedWithDeathXx]

the slide being backwards is my problem but when i go to turn them around they won't go in all the way what is wrong?. thanks guys a lot i really appreciate everything

 

 

you need to help it a little thats all. pull off the filters and help that needle into the hole lol.

[Banshee Boy69]

you need to help it a little thats all. pull off the filters and help that needle into the hole lol.

thats some funny shit, i've never needed help gettin it in before. lol but that isn't the problem, i guided the needle in to the hole and it still won't slide down but maybe 1/8 of an inch.