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splitting cases


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it is fairly easy they split top to bottom and then u can pick ur crank right up go to www.babbittsonline.com and serch banshee case or crank and a thing should come up showing how everything goes together/apart but u also kno that u should replace your crank seals and i would use the yamaseal or whatever its called .... inbetween the cases when u put them together the crank case has to be air tight

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okay guys so i just picked up my cylinders from my shop so thats one headache gone. i told him what happened and he said i dont have to split the cases?? hes been around since the 70s soo hes experianced..

 

i think he said put old gas in the crank case and kick it over a couple times and reapeat.. he said something else but slipped my mind im going to call him in the morning and ask what it was.

 

but has anyone ever heard of this??

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okay guys so i just picked up my cylinders from my shop so thats one headache gone. i told him what happened and he said i dont have to split the cases?? hes been around since the 70s soo hes experianced..

 

i think he said put old gas in the crank case and kick it over a couple times and reapeat.. he said something else but slipped my mind im going to call him in the morning and ask what it was.

 

but has anyone ever heard of this??

 

 

ill tell you what happens, you don't get all the aluminum out of the crank so then when you put your cylinders and new pistons that you just spent a lot of money on all back together it blows up again.

 

Trust me, split it and do it the right way. Replace the seals, gaskets, fresh bore, new pistons rings, do it RIGHT, jet it correctly, you won't have any more problems.

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Splitting the cases of a banshee is very easy, I will walk you through it.

Step 1. Clean everything outside the motor as best you can, you will also want a clean workspace to avoid getting dirt in your engine and doing this again.

2. Drain all your fluids and unmount the engine from your frame. There are only a few mounts under, behind, and in front of the engine. Also disconnect all electrical connections. While you're at it remove the drive sprocket.

3. Remove the screws from the water pump, clutch, and flywheel cover on your engine, they are screws that strip easy, so an impact driver is highly recommended

4. Now you need to pull the flywheel, you may only use the Yamaha flywheel puller that is specifically for the Banshee, any other flywheel puller will ensure damage to your crank and flywheel. Remember, this puller is reverse threaded, thread it into your flywheel until only two threads are showing, now tighten the inside bolt until it becomes pretty tight, but not too tight. Now hit the top of the bolt with a hammer and the flywheel should come off. Do not forget to get the woodruff key off of the shaft.

5. Now take a look at the other side of the banshee. The first thing you need to do is take the middle bolt out of your clutch pressure plate. Followed by all of the spring bolts and springs. Now remove the pressure plate and all of the clutch plates. There is a tab washer holding the nut in place, use a flat screwdriver and a hammer to bend it out of the way of the nut. Use an oil filter wrench (the belt kind) to hold the inner hub of the clutch while you spin the nut out of the middle of the clutch. The inner hub should now be removable along with the basket. There is a ball and a nut in the shaft, remove them so you do not lose them. Then remove the two screws holding the stopper plate and shield plate near the shaft.

6. Now you must remove the kickstarter mechanism, there is a spring coming off of it that hooks to a tab You will need to pry the spring up until it comes off. The kickstarter mechanism should just pull out.

7. Remove all the rest of the gears on this side, the drive gear connected directly to the crankshaft is fine, all the rest should remove with a snap ring remover.

8. Remove the nuts from your head, remove the coolant hoses on it and use a rubber mallet to knock it loose.

9. Remove the four nuts around each cylinder, there is nothing to this, knock them back and forth only with a rubber mallet, not side to side. They will pull straight up, hold on to the pistons as soon as they are exposed, do not let them hit the case.

10. Locate the circlips holding the wrist pins in. If the pistons are disposable, you can use a sharp screw driver or something of the sort. Pry it down while pulling it toward you, put your hand over the hole so you don't get hit with the circlip or lose it in the engine somewhere. After you have them out, use the screwdriver again to gently tap the wrist pin out. The piston will come off now.

11. Locate the nuts on the bottom of your engine, remove them all in order according to your manual. Do not lose these! Now locate the numbers near the bolts on the top of the engine, make sure to label each bolt in some way so you remember what went where. Loosen them also in order according to your manual. Also the clutch engager will just pull right up after you take these off.

12. It is time to split your cases. Use your rubber mallet and try and knock the cases loose this a little difficult, you may use a regular hammer and lightly tap places where the cases overlap. Once it starts to give, use a screwdriver and very gently pry. Once you can get some fingers in there, pull up carefully, be sure to make sure the gears do not stick to the top case or they will fall. Be holding onto your rods so they do not bang into the case.

13. Now you may remove the crank or gears as necessary they will pull directly up. There are two big and one small c clips under the crank and gears so you need to remember where they go.

 

-TJ Scott

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