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Posted

ok so i got the new coil traced all the wires all connected and hooked up right checked the gap on the flywheel cleaned it all up too was a little dirty i heard somewhere that if you have no spark to kick it over once or twice with the throttle wide open to reset the tors or something like that or would it just work if i unpluged them? i am really starting to hate the banshee it has been nothin but trouble and a pain in my ass ever since i bought it. i get spark every once in a while and it is super weak again any help would be good i am running out of this to try i have tried everything once again any help would be nice thanks much

Posted

I had an intermittant no spark condition on one of my shees my last trip to the dunes. It was pissin me off cause I had the same problem before loading it in the trailer and I thought I had the problem fixed with unplugging and reconnecting the TORS cause it started and ran fine after doing that. Once I got there and unloaded there was nothing. Lights flickered when kicking it over but no spark. I traced it back to a bad key switch. I just clipped the wires before the connecter and soldered them together and all was well.

Easy way to check it is to unplug the key switch and throw in a jumper between the two terminals.

Hope this helps.

Posted

First off get rid of the tors,spend the 55 bucks and save the hastle.Second,cut the key switch out,tape the wires together and disconnect the voltage regulator under the tank and all the parking brake shit off the handlebars.All that shit is garbage and nothing but a problem.If you spend the few bucks and take the 30 minutes to pull all that shit out i bet you will be a happy camper

 

check the flywheel to make sure you didn't sheer the key off

pick up gap

spark plug wires/boots

coil

 

the list goes on but thats a good place to start...good luck

Posted

You have to understand that you hate your banshee at times and love it at other times. What is your gap on the pick up coil? You need to get rid of the tors and parking brake that will help you narrow your search for the problem.

Posted

there is a little box under the fuel tank across from the coil. that is the tors main unit and if you unplug it, it will disable it. ohm your stator, and the plug caps. check the black wire on your coil to make sure you have good ground to the frame and engine. check the black/white wire to make sure it has no contact with the black or ground. if you bypass the keyswitch, make sure to only connect the red and brown wires together. the parking brake switch is only a rev limiter and won't kill spark. with junk in youur stator, that would be a good place to check first. :wink:

Posted (edited)

i would get rid of the tors but im layed off and unemployment has not kicked in yet i already choped and spliced the key does anyone know the what the gap should be for the flywheel? and i has a stock stator i will try to unhook the tors today see if that helps and the parking brake is gone well the cable is the bracket is still on this is all good help thank you guys so much if you know anymore things to try let me know i will keep you posted on the progress again thanks much i just want to get this thing runnin so i have 2 quads to ride instead of 1 quad and a dirtbike. dirtbike gets old after a while

Edited by skinindustries
Posted

ok i just unhooked the TORS system and what do you know i have spark its a little weak but i got spark now my next step is to pull and clean the flywheel really good and gap everything correctly again thanks for all the help as soon as i get some more money the TORS are outta here those things suck!!!! ohh got another question all my hoses are hooked up and tight but everytime i kick it over i am loosing coolant from somewhere i checked the water pump its all good again any help would be awesome thanks again

Posted

Double check the pick up gap to be about .20 which is about the thickness of the cardboard on a matchbook.As far as the leaking coolant,is it coming from the overflow? Or check the coolant flow tube that fits in the clutch cover and comes out of the right side top case with the hose going to your head. Sometimes that little metal o-ring doesn't do the trick,you may have to pull the cover off and throw a little rtv silicone around the tube and put it back together.Easy way to check is look between the carbs and if you see coolant dripping down the hole on the cases coming out of the bottom then chances are it's the tube.If not then check all the head bolts,nuts,hoses,clamps etc..good luck

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