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Posted

A friend of mine and I were working on the Shee build today, and ran into a question, and a problem. The first, and easiest part is how long are the motor mount bolts that go into the block? I have a bunch of random hardware that I bought from NYUK, and found some bolts that have a lock washer and a washer on it that I believe are the right ones. Can someone give me the size of the bolt that goes into it?

 

OK. Here's the 2nd part. I bought a roller from Dekker about 2 months ago. The rear brake had the assembly for the emergency brake on there, but the emergency brake had already been removed. I bought a billet e-brake block off, and replaced the e-brake assembly. Was there anything special that I had to do for that? Or is it just a cover? I also bought new brake pads. As soon as i replaced those, I find that they constantly rub the rotor. They compress when i hit the brake pedal, but just barely decompress. I have bled the brakes as far as I know how to, but can't seem to get this to work. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. thanks guys.

Posted

You can take the brake pads back off and scuff them down until they don't rub anymore. My back brake is the same way. Very tight in there. But hey! I like it tight. :blink:

 

Also, if you are having trouble with the size of the bolts. Just go to your local stealership and get a set of OEM ones. That's what I did.

Posted

yo, check that your billet blockoff plate isnt pushing the rod in for the e-brake.. i had this problem once. i think the billet blockup didnt get machined down enough and it was pushing on that rod when tightened down causing the rear brakes to stay locked up.. try loosening the blockoff a little to see what happens.

 

as for those engine bolts, they should be m10 bolts 1.25 pitch i think.. they usually have 2 washers and 1 lockwasher on them..

Posted (edited)

I wanted to add to this, I am the one that has been helping him. The blind leading the blind. LOL

 

It did it before he swamped the ebrake block off. It did it when we changed the pads. We took off the caliper, put the new pads in and, and then put it back on. The piston compressed and would not retract back. We opened the bleeder valve, pushed it back, closed the valve back, pumped the foot brake, and it compressed, but same thing, wont go back after it compressed.

 

Neither one of us knows if we bled it right. It is more than a light rub, it is enough pressure to not let the rear spin freely.

Edited by DallasGDub
Posted
I wanted to add to this, I am the one that has been helping him. The blind leading the blind. LOL

 

It did it before he swamped the ebrake block off. It did it when we changed the pads. We took off the caliper, put the new pads in and, and then put it back on. The piston compressed and would not retract back. We opened the bleeder valve, pushed it back, closed the valve back, pumped the foot brake, and it compressed, but same thing, wont go back after it compressed.

 

Neither one of us knows if we bled it right. It is more than a light rub, it is enough pressure to not let the rear spin freely.

 

I had the same problem on my front left caliper several years ago. The piston would push out, and not release. After a big wreck, we got to looking at it, and one of the seals around the piston had started coming apart, and had the piston crooked in the caliper, causing it to bind, and not release. I'd say tear the caliper down, and make sure both seals are in good shape, before the back brake locks completely up on you.

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